My two cents on a topic raised by DW somewhere in this thread. As I recall, DW said that one of the advantages of a handsewn welt is that it makes for a simpler repair job, usually, than a gemmed welt if for no other reason that access to the original last is less necessary to ensure stability since the rib should remain in place. That makes sense to me as an abstract matter, but what I struggle with is that despite the theoretically lower cost of a simpler repair job, the coat of ownership of a bespoke shoe is pretty high. Where exactly can I go to get the soles replaced on a pair of bespoke shoes? Does Nick do it? Will I get as beautifully closed seams? Does he charge less than a Goodyear welt repair because it is easier? I know the stitching on my is handsewn shoes is finer than on the work he usually does on GyW. Dies that mean it will cost me more? Ercolino charges $400 last I checked? That's not nothing. I don't even know how much the London shops charge to resolve their own shoes, but I would expect as much as Perry or more. Anyone have an idea? Anyone know where else one can go to do a resole on a handsewn shoe? And what kind of work do you get if you use a cobbler rather than sending it to the maker?
Does anyone have experience with the long-term cost of ownership of bespoke or handsewn shoes. My oldest pair is about 17 years old, from Seville. When I noticed some wear, I was concerned about how to get then repaired and decide to just put a Topy on them. They are paddock boots so the appearance wasn't a concern. But I certainly didn't want to worry about ruining them with a bad repair.
Nowaday, I do the resole mostly by myself. But I can find a workshop in HK to do the resole sewn by hand at around USD200. If I send it to a shoemaker shop, it would be around USD280.