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Sole Welting - Page 78

post #1156 of 1830
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

I have never had a problems lasting shell although very early on in my career I did have some shell tear quite drastically when blocking for boots.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

It is my opinion that if the patterns are designed correctly, you don't need to draft (pull) a shoe very much to get it to go over the last. I have made cordovan shoes and the leather was stiff, but there were no tool marks left when I was done...anywhere.

I wish you were closer or visited the NE! I've seen both issues- a small tear (maybe the shell was bad) on a pair of MTO boots (a maker that does not work with shell often), and tool marks on all of my bespoke shell shoes whereas none of my bespoke calf or exotics have tool marks. I'll take a pic when I get home.
post #1157 of 1830
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

What are these holes? Does anybody have a picture?

If you meant this for me (taking a chance here)...I have seen photos of shoes recently somewhere here on Sf that clearly showed the holes I am talking about. That said, i don't remember exactly where so I can't provide a link.

But..."the truth is out there."
post #1158 of 1830
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post #1159 of 1830
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post #1160 of 1830
This hole?

post #1161 of 1830
Quote:
Originally Posted by zippyh View Post

This hole?

[Since I'm the one who brought up the subject of centering holes, I am again assuming this is addressed to me.]

Could be...it's not one of the photos I recall but it's possible. Usually the hole would be more in the center of the back of the heel. But with the stay...well, it's maker's choice.

Is there a corresponding hole on the other shoe?

--
Edited by DWFII - 3/12/14 at 10:21am
post #1162 of 1830
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post


I wish you were closer or visited the NE! I've seen both issues- a small tear (maybe the shell was bad) on a pair of MTO boots (a maker that does not work with shell often), and tool marks on all of my bespoke shell shoes whereas none of my bespoke calf or exotics have tool marks. I'll take a pic when I get home.

Here are the pics.






post #1163 of 1830
On a completely unrelated note, DW, do you know anything about this type of leather?

The swatches looked just like any other leather, but it is creasing in an odd manner and will not take polish. The polish just sits on top. It almost looks and creases like book binder leather. Or it has a very thick finish on top.

TIA.





post #1164 of 1830
Is that shell cordovan?!
post #1165 of 1830
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

Is that shell cordovan?!

The first set of photos, yes. The second set of photos, the ones I am asking about, is of a very popular JLSJ calf in a shade called "willow".
post #1166 of 1830
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post

The first set of photos, yes. The second set of photos, the ones I am asking about, is of a very popular JLSJ calf in a shade called "willow".

Well, I don't know what to tell you about the shell shoes. Never seen anything like that kind of damage or even texture before.

As for the other, it does seem to have a fairly solid finish on it.

I'm sorry I can't be of more help.
post #1167 of 1830
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

Well, I don't know what to tell you about the shell shoes. Never seen anything like that kind of damage or even texture before.

As for the other, it does seem to have a fairly solid finish on it.

I'm sorry I can't be of more help.

Thanks for looking DW. Maybe my last is just difficult to shape over? Anyhow, the tool marks don't affect my enjoyment of the shoes so those are not a big deal. The small tear in the cordovan on my boots is an issue b/c they were designed to be snow boots. The tear and the odd texture on those boots came from the factory and really do look like the cordovan was overstressed in that area and tore. The boots are still useful, but not really that water proof due to the damaged cordovan.
post #1168 of 1830
reading from the shoe care thread, I always assumed that Vass' handmade has a relatively decent SPI, so I was quite sceptical about Chogall's comment of 6 SPI.

But he is absolutely right, never thought to count them before.

Wondering what is the average for other RTWs,

post #1169 of 1830
Quote:
Originally Posted by wurger View Post

reading from the shoe care thread, I always assumed that Vass' handmade has a relatively decent SPI, so I was quite sceptical about Chogall's comment of 6 SPI.

But he is absolutely right, never thought to count them before.

Wondering what is the average for other RTWs,

 

 

I guess it is about 9-10 judging from other RTW GW dress shoes.  First thing I noticed is this SPI when I got Vass shoes.

Don't get me wrong.  I like Vass shoes but if it was in line with other RTW makers I would have loved it more. 

I wonder how much does this less SPI contribute to cost reduction?

post #1170 of 1830
I posted pictures somewhere on this forum for comparison if you want to search for it.

British RTW makers do it at 8 spi using fully automated machines.

Saint Crispins does it at 8 spi using hand cranked machines.

Vass does it at 6 spi by hand.

Machine stitching is not as durable due to the lock stitches used.

Bespoke depends shoe type and customer request; casual/country shoes have less stitching while dress and demo pieces could go higher.
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