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the perfect blue blazer - Page 3

post #31 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgoldstein View Post

Its not really a blazer if it doesn't have gold buttons.

Preferably 18-Karat.
post #32 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

In my opinion, the perfect blue blazer is one that is as versatile as possible.
You should first start with the fabric. A richer, deeper navy with some depth to the color should be preferred. Something perhaps in a year-round weight wool, depending on what your local climate allows. Such a suiting might not the most optimal for some regions, such as Singapore, so you should tailor this as you see fit. In addition, I would recommend a solid navy over something such as a herringbone. Or at least something that looks solid from anything more than three feet away. A solid, deep, rich navy will mean that you can work it in to as many ensembles as possible.
After that, there are the other details. I would prefer a 3/2 roll, but a 2 button could also work well, depending on your height and build. Given today's informal culture, two patch pockets and a soft shoulder would be useful in toning down the formality. At the same time, going with three patch pockets probably takes it a step too far. I would also recommend eschewing things such as obvious pick stitching (especially those ugly machine made ones that lower end Italian lines seem to all carry), peak lapels, hacking pockets, and even tickets pockets, just for the sake of simplicity.
Should you prefer something a bit more Neapolitan, you can get between one and three buttons on the sleeve (I would recommend three, just so you don't veer too far out). If you want something less provincial, I would recommend four.
Finally, I would recommend dual side vents, just because I think the jacket lays better when you're sitting down or have your hands in your pockets.
The key here is to create something that can be worn with almost any classic men's style that you might find yourself drifting into. It should be wearable with any combination of trousers and shoes, and be suitable for almost any climate. Of course, nothing really achieves all those things perfectly, which is why we have so many variations of designs and cloths. Still, if one could only have one blue blazer, I think the above would be best.

You should start a blog! No what I mean to say is thanks for taking the time to think about this and write it down for the benefit of others. I don't suppose this would fit very well on either of your blogs, so it's very good of you to write it here.
post #33 of 41

My perfect blue blazer is a slim fit in wool. It should have a  front flap as well as inner pockets.

post #34 of 41
This site might give you some ideas...all of the ones they have on display can be argued to be some form of perfection.

http://www.manolo.se/artiklar/artikel/20120411/varens-blazer-2012
post #35 of 41
Once you start worrying about toning down the formality of a blazer, you're not just splitting hairs but atoms. Anyone who thinks a blazer is "too dressy" won't have a clue about the differing formality levels of patch v. flap. It's the coat itself that offends the modern sensibility, so get what you like.

That said, my specs would be two button, medium notch, flap pockets, in a hopsack or other textured cloth. Buttons that are a matte finish brass or such, or real gold if you want shiny. No peaks, ticket pockets, hacking pockets, bells, whistles or other junk to clutter it up. Unless you're absolutely sure you want those features, the more you tinker with the classic model, the greater the odds you'll end up regretting it.
post #36 of 41
It would have to be a 6 gilt-button double-breasted number. Peak lapels are a must.
post #37 of 41
Thread Starter 
See now I am happy I started this thread. It has been very enlightening to get everyones opinion.

Thanks
post #38 of 41
What about a DB?
post #39 of 41

 I rotate between two of them. A Ralph Lauren, two button darted with gold buttons and an old Michael Kors, darted with petwer buttons, both with flap pockets. Both are well constructed of dark navy worsted wool but look completely different even though the buttons and darts are just about in the same place and both have 4 buttons on the sleeve. The buttons make a big difference in the feel of formality. I think the gold buttons just look more formal even though I love the pewter button jacket.

 

 

 

post #40 of 41
For warm weather I have an SB notch lapel 2-patch in 9/10 oz Crispaire and horn buttons.

For cold weather I have a DB flap pockets in 13 oz Lesser and metal buttons.
post #41 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by sns23 View Post

two button, side vents, peak lapels, ticket pocket, flap pockets, horn buttons, textured material, surgeon's cuffs,

For me thats close but not quite, ditch the peak lapels and add unstructured shoulders.
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