Shell Cordovan Wallet Pron - Page 2

Originally Posted by RIDER 

I tested the Japanese Shell also (old post about it...with pics, I think) and it was pretty good, but not as good as Horween. The test I ran involved cupping one shell from each, placing in a shoe box with water in the cup of the shells. After a couple of days, the Japanese shell leaked thru, while Horween's never did. Also, the Japanese spotted while Horween's just rolled off and looked as good as new.

But, the main difference is the supply of raw material, not the process of the tanneries so much. There is just a small supply out there, and they both know who has it.....Horween was able to secure this, more or less. I spoke with the Italian agent for the Japanese tannery last month and there is virtually no supply there from them.....I guess they have some in Japan, but nothing is around Italy on speculation for production, as they just can't supply anything consistent to a shoe factory. For me, Horween is the one.....no doubt.

One of our private label accounts detailed Shell Cordovan from us for next season's collection, and they referred us to an Italian tannery doing Shell Cordovan. We figured it was bs, and sure enough it was. Was basically calf tanned like Shell. VERY good imitation, and apparently quite a few Italian manufacturers are using this and calling it shell - saw one finished sample from a well known brand and it was hard to tell, except I was able to find a small vein in one area....genuine SC cannot have a vein. When we received the leather from the tannery, it was calf.

Bottom line is that Horween is far and away the best producer of Shell Cordovan....no suitable substitute IMO. There is an increased interest in this material, however, and the tanneries have reacted by coming up with a very good imitation (the calf version really is nice) which will be on the market next season from numerous brands. It's just not Genuine Shell Cordovan.

Originally Posted by jammyo40 

Also, keep in mind that not all shells are created equal.

Originally Posted by dieworkwear 

I'm not sure that's entirely fair. When are you going to need a shell wallet to withstand water for a few days? Ron's test might be relevant for shoes, but probably not for wallets (or many other leather goods).

Originally Posted by jammyo40 

You have a point. But the way I see it: if it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing

Originally Posted by dieworkwear 

I'm not sure that's entirely fair. When are you going to need a shell wallet to withstand water for a few days? Ron's test might be relevant for shoes, but probably not for wallets (or many other leather goods).
I've handled Japanese shell, but I'm not sure if it's from the same tannery that Ron got his from. It's thinner, which means it's more pliable. It also feels a bit softer. Since it's from a different tannery, the color is also a bit different than the stuff that comes out of Chicago. These things - pliability, softness, color - are matters of personal preference, not inherent defects. I have wallets in both Horween and Japanese shell, and enjoy them both.
FWIW, Chester Mox will make any of their designs out of Horween shell. A small family with extensive leather working experience runs the company and they make everything by hand in Los Angeles. The quality is very high.