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Ten C : The Emperor's New Clothes - Page 8

post #106 of 218
11/19/12 at 9:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ceoceo View Post

^ From what I see, The front half only thing is done on purpose to reduce the bulk.
I am actually thinking of contacting shearling apparel makers in New England Area to see if I can make a custom vest/liner. The last time I looked at Spanish Merino Sheepskin it would cost around $200 for the material large enough for a jacket; double the cost for labor and its still under half the price of the Ten C. If the liner goes on sale, cool. If not, I may as well make a full shearling vest liner!

OK - now we need to talk. I was just thinking about the same thing to create a hood as well. I have the quilted liner to use as a model for placing the button hooks, etc.
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post #107 of 218
11/19/12 at 3:13pm
ceoceo & akatsuki that seems a grand idea as I too want to get the shearling liner but think its too expensive.

I'd definitely be interested if you go ahead and do this!
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post #108 of 218
11/19/12 at 3:56pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ceoceo View Post

^ From what I see, The front half only thing is done on purpose to reduce the bulk.
I am actually thinking of contacting shearling apparel makers in New England Area to see if I can make a custom vest/liner. The last time I looked at Spanish Merino Sheepskin it would cost around $200 for the material large enough for a jacket; double the cost for labor and its still under half the price of the Ten C. If the liner goes on sale, cool. If not, I may as well make a full shearling vest liner!

No way is that going to work out the way you think. Even if they're willing to make a liner, I can't imagine it will turn out well without the original pattern for the jacket. It has to fit perfectly inside the shell, the buttons have to be aligned, etc. Also, getting a piece custom made in the USA is going to be much more than $200 in labour.

After deducting the VAT, the shearling liner is about $750 shipped from Bureau. If you can afford the jacket, you can afford the liner.
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post #109 of 218
11/19/12 at 4:04pm
Haha yeah I know. I'm not trying to make a perfect clone+. The old timers in Vermont (whom I have had great joy in talking with) have their pride to hold. I just wanted a high-neck shearling jacket that I can fit inside. I can sew in some holes and straps for sleeves and neck myself. I have not found someone who makes clothes out of blank design yet, but found a couple that are willing to do a MTM on a stock design.

But then...this happened..

46e902f7_Crescent_Down_Works_Down_Shirt_in_Green_and_Blue_Herringbone_0.jpeg

Should I just get this as a inner layer? ffffuuuu.gif
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post #110 of 218
11/19/12 at 6:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyLaw View Post

No way is that going to work out the way you think. Even if they're willing to make a liner, I can't imagine it will turn out well without the original pattern for the jacket. It has to fit perfectly inside the shell, the buttons have to be aligned, etc. Also, getting a piece custom made in the USA is going to be much more than $200 in labour.
After deducting the VAT, the shearling liner is about $750 shipped from Bureau. If you can afford the jacket, you can afford the liner.

Like I said, I have the quilted liner for a template. The issue is more that the shearling liner is not very much shearling. Even at 1000, a full shearling jacket would be a better deal. He'll if we got enough people we could buy an original as a pattern and still come out ahead.
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post #111 of 218
11/19/12 at 6:54pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by akatsuki View Post

Like I said, I have the quilted liner for a template. The issue is more that the shearling liner is not very much shearling. Even at 1000, a full shearling jacket would be a better deal. He'll if we got enough people we could buy an original as a pattern and still come out ahead.

A finished garment is not a pattern. I'm no expert, but I think you would have to take a garment apart completely and trace every piece to get a pattern. Even then, it might not be possible. Scaling it for different sizes is a whole other task.

The Ten C liner is made in a factory. It's a production line and they make hundreds of them. Getting their liner, deconstructing it, making a pattern and sewing up a custom version with the same level of quality is guaranteed to cost more than the original.

Also, why is more shearling necessarily a better deal? It might be too bulky and uncomfortable. If it doesn't fit in the jacket properly or isn't made to the same standards, are you really coming out ahead? The Ten C liner is designed to go with their jackets. It's not cheap but it's in line with their prices. Your idea seems ridiculous to me.
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post #112 of 218
11/19/12 at 7:07pm

Theres no need to take a garment apart completely to get a pattern, most experienced tailors can trace the item and add seam allowance.  Although it will be harder to trace something that is down filled. He is right about scaling to different sizes, as most of you know designers scale up differently based on intent, would be near impossible without multiple examples to copy.

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post #113 of 218
11/19/12 at 8:26pm
I know it is nothing to brag about, but I know a guy who runs a rip off brand in Korea. Like Johnnylaw said, to make a good copy, he needs to take the OG piece apart, if not several of them.
He then sews it back up, and deconstructs it until he figures out the right measurement in each panels. Unless you have a trustworthy tailor with the skill to cut your liner apart, make the pattern, sew it back up, I am not sure if you can get the liner with identical fit/measurement.
I might try the leather jacket street in Seoul when I go back to Korea to see if they have good shearling hide. Who knows I might come across the dudes who make ToJ wink.gif
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post #114 of 218
11/20/12 at 6:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyLaw View Post

A finished garment is not a pattern. I'm no expert, but I think you would have to take a garment apart completely and trace every piece to get a pattern. Even then, it might not be possible. Scaling it for different sizes is a whole other task.
The Ten C liner is made in a factory. It's a production line and they make hundreds of them. Getting their liner, deconstructing it, making a pattern and sewing up a custom version with the same level of quality is guaranteed to cost more than the original.
Also, why is more shearling necessarily a better deal? It might be too bulky and uncomfortable. If it doesn't fit in the jacket properly or isn't made to the same standards, are you really coming out ahead? The Ten C liner is designed to go with their jackets. It's not cheap but it's in line with their prices. Your idea seems ridiculous to me.

I don't care if it is an exact copy and given that I sized the jacket to actually layer underneath, not so worried about it being perfectly fit. I don't even care about saving money. I just want to have a full shearling jacket, and, even better if it can be used as a liner as well.

Frankly, I (1) hate liners that can't also be used as jackets (e.g. the quilted liner), (2) like Ten C stuff quite a bit but feel it is overpriced at full retail, and (3) think that if I am not interested in an exact replica, merely a fitted jacket that has button loops in the right places, it shouldn't be too difficult.
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post #115 of 218
11/27/12 at 12:38pm
Is the Ten-C outwear windproof, I know its waterproof. Also when wearing it WITHOUT the lining does it look really unstructure and baggy? I tried the short parka on with the lining and it was a good fit, but wondering if I was to wear it without, would it look a size too big. Thanks
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post #116 of 218
11/27/12 at 5:29pm
I have a navy snow smock with orange liner both brand new if anyone is interested?
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post #117 of 218
11/27/12 at 6:40pm
Size 48?
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post #118 of 218
11/27/12 at 6:54pm
a patagonia down sweater or an arc'teryx veilance insulator jacket will be much better.. and can be worn alone.
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post #119 of 218
11/27/12 at 7:17pm
it's all subjective...to each their own
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post #120 of 218
11/29/12 at 2:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by akatsuki View Post


I don't care if it is an exact copy and given that I sized the jacket to actually layer underneath, not so worried about it being perfectly fit. I don't even care about saving money. I just want to have a full shearling jacket, and, even better if it can be used as a liner as well.
Frankly, I (1) hate liners that can't also be used as jackets (e.g. the quilted liner), (2) like Ten C stuff quite a bit but feel it is overpriced at full retail, and (3) think that if I am not interested in an exact replica, merely a fitted jacket that has button loops in the right places, it shouldn't be too difficult.

 

I understand the need to modify clothing like this, I would only avoid to even try to make the exact copy of any of the elements, exactly as you mentioned. It's better IMO to make something particular that will fit in well with the outer jacket, than trying to make the copy as I'm sure it would fail in 99% and/or be overpriced. Having said that, maybe some padded jacket would fit nice as inner jacket. For example, I combine Geographical Norway with S/S Stone Island Ventile jacket, which has proven as excellent combination for winter. Nevertheless, I wish I waited for the A/W version of that Ventile jacket as it came with detachable padded lining. I prefer to have the 'original' whenever possible.

 

Ten C is windproof, and quilted liners do not change significantly the fit or the shape of the outer jacket, as outer jackets are made of very firm material. I guess shearling jacket does influence the fit/shape, but I haven't tried so can not comment.

 

Anyone noticed that there are now padded inner jackets available along with the quilted and shearling ones?

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