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Choosing Proper Size Off the Rack? Shoulders vs Chest

post #1 of 16
Thread Starter 
When buying a jacket off the rack, what are the most important points of fit, or measurements if you're buying on line? I would think length obviously one of the first, especially for a short guy like myself. After that, is shoulder width or chest and back the more important measurement? Which is easier to deal with in alterations?

For me, I find a lot of jackets that have the proper chest and back have shoulders that are too wide for my taste. Am I making a mistake looking for proper shoulder width over chest and back fit?
post #2 of 16
Chest is easier to alter than shoulder.
post #3 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Moo View Post

Chest is easier to alter than shoulder.

+1
post #4 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Moo View Post

Chest is easier to alter than shoulder.


 This. Shoulder fit over all else. Then length (read button stance).

 

If a regular's button stance is too low, you can always go for a short.

 

If the chest or back is off, you can get alterations done.

 

If the shoulders are off, you must get rid of the coat.

post #5 of 16
The chest is easier to alter, but the problem is that that is how suits are sized and different shaped men might end up with shoulders that are too snug, or too wide. If you find a suit that has a chest that fits you well and the shoulders are off you need to switch to a different cut, or brand. No way else around it. If you are buying online I suggest going to some stores to feel out what brands and models work best for you and then search online for them.
post #6 of 16
What Patrick and the other guys have said. If the shoulders/collar aren't right, walk away. In theory, it can all be adjusted. In practice, it's very expensive and very few people can do it - far fewer than say they can. Chest, back, sleeves are easier, cheaper, and more reliably fixed.

The annoying thing is the same brand will often stock items made by different factories to different specs. Last summer, I picked up a bargain SC in a sale where the shoulders were great andd the rest needed doing. Bought, fixed. My cheapest SC and it looks very nice. Last winter: same shop, another nice SC in the sale on deep discount, but the block was entirely different and it was instantly obvious that the shoulders were wrong for me. So you cannot assume that just because one SC from Pineapple Junta did not fit on the shoulders that other SCs from Pineapple Junta won't fit perfectly.
post #7 of 16
Thread Starter 
Great. Thanks for all the input. I've been threatening to try something from Suit Supply and they just added shoulder width measurements to their size guides.
post #8 of 16
It's more than a shoulder measurement, it's the style of shoulder that's important. If it's natural, built up, small pad, big pad or no padding. The shoulder style and how it fits your body type, your shoulder build and how compatible it is with your personality.
post #9 of 16
Thread Starter 
Good point. Softer and narrower shoulders definitely look better on me due to my build. I feel like a more English shoulder looks decent on my frame as long as the point to point isn't too wide. Unfortunately most jackets with that expression have a shoulder that I feel is too wide if I buy to my size chest size.
post #10 of 16

Shoulders first.

post #11 of 16

Yea I just ordered from Suit Supply myself this Monday. So I am waiting to see how it fits.. I really hate ordering online because of the fit in the shoulders.. The customer service for suit supply was helpful in terms of giving me measurements.. I am tall athletic guy.. roughly the same size as a Lebron James..so it will be interesting to see how things work out.

post #12 of 16

how did this go for you guys? Im kicking around the same thing with SS. I would be a 42R in just about every suit out there, but my shoulders are around a 19. The only suit which comes close is the London which is about 18,7 in the shoulders and the chest is still rather large and isnt my first choice of style. RLBL fits me very well OTR in a 42R...It seems with just about every SS cut there is, i would have to go with a 44R to accommodate my shoulders, but I would need a lot of tailoring elsewhere. What is everyones thoughts on this?

post #13 of 16
Thread Starter 
Based on the names and what I've seen online, a lot of the SS models seem to be somewhat more "Italian" cuts which will have narrower, softer shoulders. When you say your shoulders are around 19", is that a measurement on your body or the measurement of the shoulder width of one of your favorite suits?

I purchased a Napoli model which should arrive tomorrow. We'll see how it goes.
post #14 of 16

I had Carl @ CEGO make me a few shirts which just arrived today which are amazing and fit perfect. I know he used a 18.75 yoke if im not mistaken. I also have a RLBL suit which fits very nice OTR and the shoulders on that are 19... I tired on every suit SS had in the Soho store, and i must say, none fit me that well. It seems to be the shoulders are very narrow unless you go up in size.

post #15 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

It's more than a shoulder measurement, it's the style of shoulder that's important. If it's natural, built up, small pad, big pad or no padding. The shoulder style and how it fits your body type, your shoulder build and how compatible it is with your personality.


Good point.

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