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The StyleForum Runway & High Fashion Thread - Page 59

post #871 of 1125
Tout à fait.

Pic is from 1982 btw.

Might've already been posted in the other thread

post #872 of 1125
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sipang View Post

It's weird that those fashion shows feel so old -- not outdated but just so far away from now -- whereas music or films like the Matrix don't. It's just a completely separate time continuum. Maybe that's just me.

 

Because you can get the Matrix on Blu Ray in HD.  Look at the photography in the pics you posted - they're grainy; the colors are deadened; they're like 24x10 resolution.  Makes it feel like it's from another era when it was only 15 years ago.

post #873 of 1125
[moved to a more relevant place]

returned to irrelevance

i didn't think it was high fashion or runway but just tangential. anyway, saw this in ivwri's blog, I'm not sure of what value this book is but I found this section interesting:
Quote:
In reserving the category of “fashion” exclusively for certain kinds of white Western bourgeois styles of dress and personhood, the fashion elite have hijacked the term. Styles and practices of dress not sanctioned by the fashion elite are relegated to the broad category of “non-fashion,” which includes everything from outdated clothing styles to “ethnic garb.” In this binary logic, “fashion” is the sign of Western modernity, innovation, dynamism, and choice (a point Myers emphasizes so strongly) and non-fashion is the sign of the unmodern, the uninnovative, the static, and the oppressed. People associated with non-fashions like, say “ethnic garb,” are imagined as “traditional” subjects who lag behind or are situated outside of the modern West.

Fashion’s alignment with “the modern” and, tacitly, white American and Western European culture is a foundational fiction of fashion that passes for self-evident truth in too much popular, vernacular, and critical fashion discourse. But fashion isn’t alone in its imperialist claims on “the modern”. This dominant logic of fashion is part and parcel of what Minoo Moallem usefully describes as “civilizational thinking”: “a powerful modern discourse influenced by the Enlightenment and the idea of progress dividing the civility of the ‘West’ from the barbarism of the ‘Rest.’” Hardly an innocent sartorial designation, the logic of “ethnic garb” which places some practices and styles of dress outside of the category of Fashion (and all the positive connotations that accrue to it) has produced devastating material, social, and physical consequences.

Edited by the shah - 1/9/13 at 7:02pm
post #874 of 1125
No this is the relevant place, what are you doing !
post #875 of 1125
Quote:
Though Westernness feels like an immutable inheritance, whether a people sees itself as heir is actually a conscious decision that only later becomes an unconscious patrimony. Many of the Egyptians and Syrians of today are the descendants of Roman citizens, and yet they see themselves as non-Western. Many even consider themselves to be in a struggle against the West. Meanwhile the Germans, descended from the barbarians who sacked Rome, consider themselves heirs to Western civilization. A city such as Berlin, with its neoclassical museum buildings, is no different than St. Petersburg in its ex post facto writing of its people into the Western tradition. Berlin feels less Disneyfied than St. Petersburg only because the ruse has worked. While just 12 percent of Russians tell pollsters that they always “feel European,” no pollster would even think to ask the Germans whether they felt that way. It’s just accepted that Germans are Europeans.

 

From A History of Future Cities, by Daniel Brook

post #876 of 1125
re: Shah's quote of that book excerpt - Interesting. Seems the "elite" creating the "critical fashion discourse" are only the elite because they have a pulpit to shout from, which signals that they have some authority even if in reality they don't know squat, and because people believe them. For example, you post an opinion on a tumblr page that 10 people look at and it's just your opinion; you post the identical words on gq.com and suddenly it carries a great deal of weight, because it's reaching a large audience which assumes gq has some kind of knowledge they don't. Their authority consists in having a large number of people think they have power/expertise/whatever, and all that's required to geld the so-called elite is to recognize that their power/expertise/whatever is not absolute. (And the "elite" is generally not a monolith but a group of different people, often with different views, jockeying to prove they have that more of that power/expertise/whatever than the others in the group.)

Also, fashion can still be seen as essentially local. It's whatever a community deems fashionable, which is how you get niches—they're just small communities. Today, the "community" is huge because of technology. The "Western" community spans from Australia to Europe to North America, which is kinda funny because you can see that the term "the West" no longer refers to a place but a way of thinking derived from the European heritage. Hell, even Japan and South Korea seem more "Western" than, say, Cuzco, Peru. But in a community that doesn't care about what the West's fashion elite says is fashion, you still see fashion, just defined according to that community's standards. The devastating "material, social, and physical consequences" suffered by the supposedly barbarous "Rest" only occur if the "Rest" consent—that is, if they concede that the Western elite actually has some authority. (Of course there are reasons why they consent stemming from imperialism...)

ok, blah blah blah over...
post #877 of 1125
thanks for humoring me, pppp
i think what you're getting at is why i may have issues with the book in general. but even beyond the pulpit there's a sense of putting down that which differs. you've to look at the forums to see this, SF making fun of SZ, MC (*ehem* CM) calling SWD childish costumed basement dwellers / SWD calling them wanna-be iGent ballers stuffing into suits day in and day out without recognition of its snapshot 1950s ideal, everyone making fun of people at the mall, ... , maybe this is all self-reassurance that the said group is right. assume an identy (c4est) and convince yourselves it's right.
post #878 of 1125



Quote:
Originally Posted by leparadox 
Aldilà dei mortali e della materia, c’è una sostanza purissima ed ineffabile che avvolge il cosmo. E’ l’etere, aria inalata dalle antiche divinità greche e misteriosa essenza del mondo celeste, meta ineffabile degli uomini bramosi d’immortalità.

InAisce, alchimista postmoderno, riscrive la formula del quinto elemento, sperimentando nuove tecniche per vincere il tempo effimero attraverso la sua collezione Fall-Winter 2013/2014. Le linee incorruttibili dei pezzi, vibrano di un limpido sentimento di ricerca, che si riflette nei tagli netti e nell’incredibile costruzione dei capispalla, dove le cuciture sono uno scalpello nelle mani del designer e tracciano solchi sottili per evidenziare le silouhettes essenziali. L’esplorazione e la resa della figura maschile è profonda. Fenditure appuntite come lame d’acciaio modellano i volumi cilindrici e armoniosi dei capi, che nel sottile gioco di vuoti e pieni rendono concretamente contemporaneo un gusto primitivo e diafano. La grazia delle membra è scolpita nell’impalpabile; spingendo al contempo la sua intrinseca incisività ad un punto di non ritorno; incarnando quell’ eleganza propria delle creazioni di Jona in una vertigine che rasenta il paradosso. La cura impiegata nella scelta dei materiali e realizzazione di ogni pezzo rende ogni dettaglio e rifinitura parte costitutiva dell’idea di tranquillità spirituale che veicola i capi, catalogati ciascuno con un nome specifico, come fossero elementi chimichi di un laboratorio. Più che semplici indumenti, le creazioni di Jona prendono vita indossate, trasformando l’anatomia in sculture flessibili, che accompagnano i movimenti, come i pantaloni “Columnar Leg Cover” o la gonna “Seer Skirt“. L’attitudine mistica e lo spirito d’avanguardia del marchio si equilibrano alla prefezione, generando una sintonia continua che permette di legare i capi in perfette strutture di layering.

Con leggerenza infinita InAisce rivolge il suo sguardo veggente verso l’ultimo cielo dell’atmosfera. Allontanando l’elisir di lungavita, comprende che l’immortalità è data dal saper morire e rinascere con qualcosa di nuovo, vincendo la frenesia del tempo con l’imperturbabile calma e l’inventività della creazione.

Edited by the shah - 1/11/13 at 8:49am
post #879 of 1125
i can't read this shit
post #880 of 1125
Quote:
Originally Posted by the shah View Post

thanks for humoring me, pppp
i think what you're getting at is why i may have issues with the book in general. but even beyond the pulpit there's a sense of putting down that which differs. you've to look at the forums to see this, SF making fun of SZ, MC (*ehem* CM) calling SWD childish costumed basement dwellers / SWD calling them wanna-be iGent ballers stuffing into suits day in and day out without recognition of its snapshot 1950s ideal, everyone making fun of people at the mall, ... , maybe this is all self-reassurance that the said group is right. assume an identy (c4est) and convince yourselves it's right.

If you're a subscriber to the theories put forth by Benedict Anderson in his seminal work, the 'putting down that which differs' is both fundamental and endemic to generating and sustaining a group identity.

post #881 of 1125
Quote:
Originally Posted by brad-t View Post

i can't read this shit

agreed, it's getting ridiculous. looks beautiful though. is that the guy from I heart huckabees?
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
post #882 of 1125
Quote:
Originally Posted by brad-t View Post

i can't read this shit

Good god. It reads like a mad lib
post #883 of 1125
Quote:
Originally Posted by TWorksheets View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by brad-t View Post

i can't read this shit

Good god. It reads like a mad lib

clearly it's because none of you understand italian
post #884 of 1125
shah, is there a link to that set of images? wanted to send to someone.
post #885 of 1125

It's Ger Duany (and yes, he's from I Heart Huckabees)

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