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The StyleForum Runway & High Fashion Thread - Page 55

post #811 of 1188
I notice a lot of similarities between plokhov and siki, especially the collars
post #812 of 1188
agreed, quality is at least on par with rick. one's i've handled ranged from thin to medium, that one looks thick in comparison.
post #813 of 1188
Perhaps not high-fashion enough for King Julien, but I checked the first post and I think this qualifies as "old ad campaigns" and "all the rest".

Giorgio Armani 1989

post #814 of 1188
Thread Starter 

Haha.  Definitely qualifies smile.gif.  When did Armani make the switch from being on the forefront of fashion to what he does now, which I understand is pretty conservative?

post #815 of 1188
I think he's always been fairly conservative. To me he's always done some kind of deconstructed take on 30s-style "classic" tailoring. Usually in some lux fabrics, many that are frankly really ugly :-). But the volumes have changed over the seasons. The super big loose fit was a trend in the 80s and 90s... something you see echoed in other designers like Issey Miyake and later Damir.

Maybe Armani was as the forefront in terms of mass popularity/sales, but I don't think he was ever at the vanguard of design. He became synonymous with the 80s "power suit".
post #816 of 1188

I was somewhat disappointed with Hedi's womenswear collection for SLP. It felt too conservative in the sense that most girls are already wearing the looks he presented. Everything was well done but it was too boring. A lot of it looked liked something Taylor Swift would wear. 

post #817 of 1188
here a report on different designers made by french/german tv station "arte"
it's available in french and german language
post #818 of 1188
let's flip through the book shall we? (Click to show)

Edited by the shah - 10/26/12 at 8:42pm
post #819 of 1188

Shah, where did you get that? I really want one too!

post #820 of 1188
Thanks for sharing that shah! I should patrol ebay for stuff like this, yes?
post #821 of 1188
haha I don't own it I just came across the images !

you can find similar stuff on ebay or your local library teacha.gif or if you have an extra grand to drop on coffee table texts, by all means
post #822 of 1188


I had the great opportunity to interview Boris Bidjan Saberi, one of the best contemporary menswear designers in the face of the earth and one of my all-time favorite designers after his Spring Summer 2013 show during Paris Fashion Week last June. It was a bit surreal interviewing let alone meeting him in person. Also, I was a bit overwhelmed at the backstage while waiting for Boris thanks to the larger-than-life mannequins undressing and dressing in front of me (Check out my previous BTS Boris Bidjan Saberi SS13 post HERE!). Kidding aside, this tête-à-tête with Boris really allowed me to really get under his skin and pick his brain regarding his latest collection.


1. Tell us about your latest collection.
I did this collection because I was pretty inspired by the mafia. I always need a group to inspire a collection. The idea is to make something a little bit more serious and more classic. As I always need a crew or a gang (for every collection) I looked for one and in this case it's more like the mafia. And from that, I created my mafia from the future.
2. What made you decide to go to a different direction with this new collection? This collection is a little bit lighter for you compared to your previous collections. I noticed some sportswear, some denim and lighter shades as compared to your earlier works.
First of all, all my collections are reflection of myself which means I don't design based on any movies or something like that. It's really how I feel that's the direction I go. In this case, I really wanted to speed and to make something more serious. And that's why I went to that way. And of course I was looking for a story or concept which was the mafia. The different comments they came out because of the wardrobe. A classic man has a wardrobe where he wears jeans, suits, gabardine (jacket), polo jackets maybe. I took garments of a classic wardrobe and I changed them totally and destroyed them totally. And I made my gabardine (jacket), my jeans, my bomber jackets. and so on. All the patterns I make to fit my body and also (make them) really fluid like how I want them. I don't really do drawings. I make them for my body right away.

3. What are the covetable pieces from this collection?
The gabardine coat is one of the masterpieces from the collection because of the arm construction. It is something that is really difficult (to make) because we made the upper shoulder part which is always on the gabardine to put the button on. This comes out from the arm and it's a really strange arm situation. This is a masterpiece and the arms are on oil-tanned leather and the fabric is coated cotton so the mix and cut is really brilliant. It was really difficult to make. 


4. We all know that there is a growing demand for your stuff from women. Do you see yourself making womenswear anytime soon?
I think I do but when I do it I want to start it step-by-step and not do the big shows. First of all, what I really love to do is garments and feel them and to make really beautiful objects. In reality, my woman is strong when I can imagine her. But I don't know if she's strong enough to conquer the woman of other designers you know. So maybe she would be really be basic and really clean.


5. Do you have a person in mind?
No, not at the moment. But how I feel a woman has to dress today for me then it has to be pretty clean. I will do womenswear for sure because I really want to do it. But how and when we shall see.
6. How about diffusion lines? Do you see yourself collaborating with any designer?
There are things but in the end what's important for me is my brand and that's my baby. And I love it really. And it's really what I want to do. And I have no financial support. I have no people behind me to tell me what I have to do. I really love what I do. And my whole team we are like a family. I really like how it is right now. I don't want to make it different right now. I really want to continue how it is and continue enjoying it. If there are companies coming up someday something which I would imagine be interesting then of course why not. Collaborations we do. We did something with Linda Farrow, Sixth Sense and with other bigger brands. They are not yet out so I can't tell. This I enjoy doing. But a big big brand like designer for another house right now I don't think so. 


A big shout out to Boris and his team for making this interview possible. Special thanks to Fiasco Magazine for this great opportunity.


Of course the fanboy in me had to beg Boris to do this cheesy shot with me! Boris is indeed gorgeous inside out (Man-crush alert!)!

post #823 of 1188
love the helmut lang-esque details on the jackets and the shirts.
harness and all white look are my fave!
cool interview shah!
post #824 of 1188

Can anyone school me on Issey Miyake? I know nothing and haven't found enough photographs of runway shows to say that I have an idea of his aesthetic....

post #825 of 1188
ill wait for one of the heavyweights to weigh in with a proper answer but heres what i got..
from what ive read, damir doma is a big IM fan and uses the egg silhouette because of him.
experimental fabrics are always being developed.
im sure by looking at some of todays designers (damir) we might find some similarities

thats all i got redface.gif
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