or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Streetwear and Denim › The StyleForum Runway & High Fashion Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The StyleForum Runway & High Fashion Thread - Page 47

post #691 of 1125
The buttoned sleeves thing is repulsive.
post #692 of 1125
Quote:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Originally Posted by Johan View Post

Didnt really know where to post this, and I know some people in this thread have shown interest in Christophe Lemaire's work... I've handled some of his garments from the new FW collection.
I wasnt impressed by his last SS collection mainly because of the poor choice of materials, but it appears his shapes and cuts work way better with winter fabrics.
Unfortunately I couldnt take any pics, but I plan on going back to the shop next month and grab a thing or two.
My favorite item : the oversized double breasted jacket with shawl collar. It's very boxy and bulbous when closed, so it kinda looks like a blouson and is great for layering.
016m.jpg
009m.jpg
They also have these wool shirts that can be worn tucked in a pair of pants, as well as a jacket (these are lined), depending on the size you get.
014m.jpg
Loved this oversized (and long !) shirt, will grab it with a pair of pants :
022m.jpg
LOTS of pants in a large palette of colours and fabrics (soft wool, heavy wool, cotton, wool/cotton blend) :
- Wide and double pleated - nice, but maybe overdesigned
- Very wide on the thighs and tappered from the knee down. Single pleated. My favorite.
- Same as above but double pleated.
- Slightly wide on the thighs and tappered from the knee down (somewhat similar to DVN). Single pleated.
- Same as above but double pleated.
- Straight (maybe slightly tappered), single pleated.
The long coat is very Damir : falling under the knee, wide sleeves. Didnt really like the feel of the fabric, it's a very itchy tweed, also used on some of the jackets.
There's an oversized cotton trench coat that is really nice.
And some gorgeous knits (patchwork and cable sweater, waffle textured cardigan, etc).
Prices are okay too. Most expensive garment was a 900 euros coat, but the jackets are 500/600 euros. Same price point as Stephan Schneider I'd say so sometimes it may appear a bit incohesive.

 

Great stuff.

Some stores around here will stock it soon. Will be exciting to see how it is in person.

post #693 of 1125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johan View Post

I wasnt impressed by his last SS collection mainly because of the poor choice of materials, but it appears his shapes and cuts work way better with winter fabrics.

His summer collections have that kind of monkish plainness to them, I vaguely remember reading an article a while ago where Lemaire talked about his choice of materials for a Spring collection and how he deliberately avoided too rich-feeling fabrics to give a more utilitarian, beauty in the unadorned kinda vibe. Haven't handled the stuff though so make of that what you will.

Quote:
The long coat is very Damir : falling under the knee, wide sleeves. Didnt really like the feel of the fabric, it's a very itchy tweed, also used on some of the jackets.
There's an oversized cotton trench coat that is really nice.
And some gorgeous knits (patchwork and cable sweater, waffle textured cardigan, etc).
Prices are okay too. Most expensive garment was a 900 euros coat, but the jackets are 500/600 euros. Same price point as Stephan Schneider I'd say so sometimes it may appear a bit incohesive.

Feels like Damir and Lemaire gravitate more and more towards the same themes aesthetically speaking, they do share (some of) the same inspirations and stylists so I guess that's to be expected.

Is the long coat the one that's also on the corner ?
post #694 of 1125
Yup, the very same ! They also stock it in black/anthracite. Looked gorgeous on the store model.

About his summer fabrics, they felt really cheap and unsubstancial to me. I get the will of doing something pure and functional, but it was all so fragile. Also some choices were debatable. Like for instance, I tried a pair of very structured pants (double pleated, carrot shape...) made in super lightweight fluid wool. The shape just fell off... Cotton or crispy linen was more appropriate IMO.

Very true about Damir, they definitly share some influences (Issey Miyake).
post #695 of 1125
Agreed on Damir as well. It's sort of like Damir but aimed at a more mainstream market...which is exactly what DD is gravitating toward himself.
post #696 of 1125
another attempt





post #697 of 1125
^ i thought i went into recent purchases so i was like bounce2.gif
post #698 of 1125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master Milano View Post

^ i thought i went into recent purchases so i was like bounce2.gif

I wouldn't buy any of those, the only one that I don't find offensive is 3rd down on left.

As far as I'm concerned, damir has ever made 3 good men's footwear items : fw11 creeper boots (tho ver narrow), ss10 silent sneakers in leather, and I believe they were ss10 or 09 alien sneaker-boots that the 3rd one on left seems to be a refinement of.
post #699 of 1125
Footwear still so-so, should've done a nike collab instead
post #700 of 1125
Quote:
Originally Posted by the shah View Post

I wouldn't buy any of those, the only one that I don't find offensive is 3rd down on left.
As far as I'm concerned, damir has ever made 3 good men's footwear items : fw11 creeper boots (tho ver narrow), ss10 silent sneakers in leather, and I believe they were ss10 or 09 alien sneaker-boots that the 3rd one on left seems to be a refinement of.

well I like the last two fwiw, pretty normal designs minus that thing at the back. Agree that he's not the best with shoes. Still woulda been amazed if you kopped them all satisfied.gif
post #701 of 1125
8

post #702 of 1125

post #703 of 1125
wouldnt wear it myself, save for the scarf/shawl, but i like the photoshoot.
the bag on the right is nice actually..
post #704 of 1125
Looks like a next level Cucinelli lookbook
post #705 of 1125
Hah. "next level Cucinelli" is an awesome description
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Streetwear and Denim
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Streetwear and Denim › The StyleForum Runway & High Fashion Thread