^ this 100000 times. Fuck was that an awesome collection. What the hell happened to him in the ensuing years?
The StyleForum Runway & High Fashion Thread - Page 37
Jil gets a bad rap. She was pretty influential in the 90s and +J was actually nice, unlike UU. Now that she's come back I'm worried it's going to be Cardin 2.0 though.
And since we're discussing archives anyways, here's the link to the high-res collection photos I mentioned in the SS2013 runway thread.
Not my pics
by Leonard Koren, 1984
By DAN THAWLEY
Young Croatian designer Damir Doma has opened his first flagship store in the French capital this month—stamping his romantic signature across no less than three light-filled stories on the hallowed shopping strip of Rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré. The store comes as the latest addition to the 29-year-old's impressive résumé, after four seasons on the women's prêt-à-porter schedule and a thriving diffusion line, proving the German-born designer has quite the thriving empire on his hands.
After honing his trade in the ateliers of Raf Simons and Dirk Schoenberger in Antwerp, Doma launched menswear in Paris in 2007, and was recognized for a sensitive use of precious textures and a romantic, borderline Gothic use of draping. Since launching womenswear in 2009, his menswear became a hit amongst avant-garde buyers and fashion aficionados—with the collections quickly snapped up by New York's Atelier, H. Lorenzo in LA, and L'Eclaireur in Paris.
The space, designed by Australian architect Rodney Eggleston, is a testament to Doma's vision of raw, decadent luxury. A ceiling of hand-finished smoky mirrors was flown in directly from Eggleston's hometown of Melbourne, and expansive travertine marble slabs create a "strata" effect staircase that extends into each level of the store. "The interior is about levels and layers, just like my clothes," said Doma. "We have used materials in their most raw form to define the colors; structures and the feel of it."
Bare concrete walls carry the scars of previous repair and construction—offering a discordant anarchy that opposes the classical parquetry and bronze finishes. Glass vitrines hold accessories in exotic leathers or jewelry adorned with glittery pyrite. They glint and glisten, reflecting a seductively bright future across that mirrored ceiling.
"They are trying to get themselves into a new code, even stealing a few things from their priest-teacher — but always within the confines of chic clothes," Simons said, referring to a clerical collar, above a crisp gray sweater or circling a jacket neckline.
The music and performance art are really amazing and work very well together. Still ambivalent about the clothing. Some of it looks really cool on a purely conceptual level, but I don't like the way most of the clothing looks in motion. The hakama-style pants for instance seem pretty stiff and restrained, which is probably what he was going for, but to me it is just not attractive. I do like the t-shirts that can be worn as hoods though. They remind me of when I was a kid and used to do that with all my t-shirts