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The StyleForum Runway & High Fashion Thread - Page 12

post #166 of 1059
juun j X dior is genius icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #167 of 1059
Quote:
Originally Posted by KingJulien View Post

I probably wouldn't dislike some of the more current DH seasons if it wasn't Dior Homme releasing them.

This is what I was referring to, a few posts up.
post #168 of 1059
Thread Starter 

Quote:

Originally Posted by bows1 View Post


This is what I was referring to, a few posts up.


I answered this above, but one other thing - you think I'm comparing KVA to Slimane, but I'm actually comparing him to christian dior.  Slimane did a really job keeping the glamour, etc of the label, and KVA didn't, which is my primary problem with what he's doing there.  Galliano did a great job here too, which is why it's an interesting dual comparison.

post #169 of 1059
Quote:
Originally Posted by KingJulien View Post

Quote:


I answered this above, but one other thing - you think I'm comparing KVA to Slimane, but I'm actually comparing him to christian dior.  Slimane did a really job keeping the glamour, etc of the label, and KVA didn't, which is my primary problem with what he's doing there.  Galliano did a great job here too, which is why it's an interesting dual comparison.


But you have to be, cause Christian Dior had nothing to do with Dior Homme. Only Slimane and KVA.

I get that they are under the same umbrella, but Dior Homme has only had two designers. Hedi always called to mind Rockstar rather than Glamour. Regardless, I'm not very well versed in DH, so just some stray observations
post #170 of 1059
Thread Starter 

From the DH thread:

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by KingJulien View Post

That 'luxury brand image' is important though.  You can't just do whatever you want when designing for one of those big houses; there has to be continuity.  That's why Balenciaga is still modernist 60 years later, Lanvin still keeps the focus on fabrics, etc.


The rocker thing was his own, but those silk tuxedo looks, the jackets that were ridiculously detailed, even the pricing came from the label's past, just like when Raf took over Jil Sander he kept the minimalist look and focus on absurdly expensive fabrics.  Another example- when Slimane goes to YSL I'd be really damn surprised to see jeans on the runway at all (I don't know much about YSL though).\

 

edit: also, you guys don't have to agree with me redface.gif i'm just explaining why I said what I said.  Obviously a lot of you like the stuff, which is fine.

post #171 of 1059
Well, as I've learned from forums user whatever123 YSL only makes black trousers.
post #172 of 1059
http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2011/06/17/kris-van-assche-on-the-dior-pressure---rick-owens-interview

some excerpts:

Usually when people take over an old house, or a line, it's because it's almost dead. But that was not the case at Dior. I was taking over a success story [from Hedi Slimane], which is really tough to do, because nobody wants you to do the same thing and nobody wants you to change

But I feel like the pressure has become almost more intense now that things are going better at Dior, because in the beginning everybody was just gonna hate it, and so there wasn't much to lose

my fave smile.gif

"I didn't put myself in that position. It was just part of the shitty job that somebody had to do. I really hang on to this idea that Dior Homme, as a collection, had reached its high point, and this skinny, rock 'n' roll look had become such a cliché in the streets that any designer would have had to take this collection in a new direction. So I knew that somebody would have had to go through that difficult timing. It would have been really nasty for anyone. It just happened to be me"
post #173 of 1059
Quote:
Originally Posted by bows1 View Post

Well, as I've learned from forums user whatever123 YSL only makes black trousers.

c'mon, man. don't be silly. they also make charcoal and navy
post #174 of 1059
Quote:
Originally Posted by pickpackpockpuck View Post


Same here. And that's definitely not me, hah. Probably part of the reason I didn't feel attracted to it.


I've got the skinny part down, but fuck those guys are tall. Julius and DH both cast exclusively from some Giant Eating Disorder support group it seems



Quote:
Originally Posted by snowmanxl View Post

i think hedi said there wasnt any room for muscles in fashion laugh.gif
certainly for his stuff
...anyways we shouldnt pick on KJ because he doesnt fit into the aesthetic he enjoys. i wouldnt get a job at any runway shows, maybe yohji biggrin.gif


Not trying to pick on him, just saying it's funny that he likes it so much. Usually people are attracted to brands that fit their bodytype

 

post #175 of 1059
Thread Starter 

Says the skinny dude buying Rick Owens biggrin.gif but yeah it's much more the idea than the clothes.  I actually aim for oversized on the top half most of the time, since I've got a 8 or 9" drop so slim tops usually just look bad.  There's also very few designers that do jeans on the runway well, so there's slim pickings when looking for ideas since that's what I enjoy wearing the best.

 

Snow, that's interesting, and now I feel a little bad, haha.  I think he definitely had the right idea by changing the silhouette, but he also dropped a lot of the shiny/silky over-the-top aspects which (I think) were integral to the house.

 

Quote:
Initially, women protested because his designs covered up their legs, which they had been unused to because of the previous limitations on fabric. There was also some backlash to Dior's designs due to the amount of fabrics used in a single dress or suit. During one photo shoot in a Paris market, the models were attacked by female vendors over this profligacy, but opposition ceased as the wartime shortages ended. The "New Look" (a name given it by American fashion-magazine editor Carmel Snow) revolutionized women's dress and reestablished Paris as the center of the fashion world after World War II.

 

 

Anyhoo, I'm pretty much done backing my point up since I don't want to change my mind in six months and show up wearing KVA and get yelled at redface.gif.

post #176 of 1059
yeah, i do agree that he toned down the extravagance but there was no DH before hedi. it would be interesting to see what christian dior himself would have come up with at DH. do you think he would have gone over the top there as well tongue.gif

i remember watching/reading an interview where kva was talking about how he can focus so much more on fabric and detail now that all the hype is gone....something like that
post #177 of 1059

Chick Rick. Plenty of small guys buy his stuff though, Rick XS is like 29 pants and 34"-35" chest with ~16" shoulders or thereabout

 

My taste is all over the place though, and the stuff I know really well is womenswear so I think that really influences my purchasing more than it should

post #178 of 1059
Quote:
Originally Posted by snowmanxl View Post

yeah, i do agree that he toned down the extravagance but there was no DH before hedi. it would be interesting to see what christian dior himself would have come up with at DH. do you think he would have gone over the top there as well tongue.gif
i remember watching/reading an interview where kva was talking about how he can focus so much more on fabric and detail now that all the hype is gone....something like that

I'm guessing it would not be slouchy jeans on skinny dudes with Johnny Ramone haircuts. How gauche!
post #179 of 1059

Since DH has been the topic for the last two pages, can someone tell me some dior homme online stockits? Besides LVR and farfetch.

post #180 of 1059

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Why don't we get cool stuff like this in menswear? Draping on that second top is awesome.

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