I've spent the last couple years following the runway shows pretty closely and I want to get some better opinions. I don't care about fashion in the social sense so I don't follow the news or know how to pronounce names of labels and so forth , but I do think the creativity of the design warrants extreme praise. In many ways, it feels like fashion is the most effective form of creativity in its ability to offer an abundance of materialized creative offerings in the shortest amount of time and effort. So in that sense, it's perfect for my interests which are mostly in poaching design elements that show architectural and structural emphasis, as opposed to eclectic assemblage or deconstructed looks. I'm particularly interested in textural compositions, patterns, and geometrically-refined details, and designs that are both minimalist and intricate. With that said, I'm looking for some opinions of people who know what they're talking about who might be able to offer me more insight into this curious world, so I'm just gonna throw some shit out there in hopes of getting responses on any of it. (Fuuma, that means you buddy!)
1) I'm under the impression that Paris and Milan (to a lesser extent) are vastly superior to New York in quality of design right now related to my interests. Very little of what I see in New York interests me due to what I perceive as a greater emphasis on assemblage and deconstruction. It feels like the interest for Parisian and Milanese designers is much stronger in the thoroughness of construction for individual elements (AW for Balenciaga comes to mind), with far less unresolved details than their New York counterparts (Rodarte comes to mind). Is that a fair assessment? I was under the impression that New York was considered an equal peer to Paris if it had not supplanted it as the center of the fashion design world, but my gut tells me Paris is really cleaning their clock, and that even excludes the couture work.
2) How evenly is the talent of design thought to be distributed between houses of different size, stature, and price point? One would obviously assume the Louis Vuitton's and Chanel will always be offering A-list talent, but are relatively small houses with lower price points ever cited as being equals in design? For the sake of analogies, is fashion similar to baseball whereby the Yankees simply buy out all the best free agent pitching talent every summer?
3) How much are the reviews from the big magazines affected by the reputations of the houses and designers? My casual interest in reading reviews tells me that Lanvin, Chanel, and Marc Jacobs could show a season full of burlap sacks and they'd be critical successes.
4) On a similar note, I see little if any resistance to unwearable, conceptual fashion. It appears smaller houses that trend in that realm can simply get ignored out of convenience to critics, but how can a publication not eventually tell Thom Browne to fuck off?
5) Versace/Tommy Hilger: Am I missing something or have they bought immunity from scorn from influential people? And to a lesser extent, is Oscar de la Renta just adding bird and flower decals to dresses? Or am I missing something?
6) Does anybody have strong thoughts on Valentino's recent offerings? I've been more interested/fascinated by their recent shows than any others right now, despite the fact that my better judgment tells me their fetish with Venetian palazzo muses is over-design at its worst.
7) I'd describe these houses as the bread and butter of my curiosity. Any recommendations for other houses that often feature similar minimalist/structuralist/geometric/neutral design orientations that intricate details? Or in other words, maybe the most refined designs? I just don't know the reputations for design aesthetics outside the major players. There's gotta be a few smaller houses I'm unaware of that play this game.
8) Or to put it in picture form, I want the opposite of this:
9) These are some slides of appealing designs I just pulled from my computer, if that helps.Edited by StephenHero - 9/10/14 at 9:46pm