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The StyleForum Runway & High Fashion Thread - Page 75

post #1111 of 1125
Another vote for JJVE.

I have two pieces at the moment and the attention to detail and construction are all pretty top notch. Very considered.

I am also a huge fan of his approach to making collections. One collection a year, with smaller capsule projects scattered in-between inspiration, and I guess finances, allowing.

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post #1112 of 1125






Charlie Porter posted his backstage impressions and photos from the Comme showroom. Loads of good pics and insights into the Comme, Junya, CdG SHIRT and Gosha Rubchinskiy shows.

Always liked his behind-the-scenes posts like this and his enthusiasm is very infectious.

More here
post #1113 of 1125
post #1114 of 1125

JJvE - #3 is still the best, by far, but #5 is much better than #4 IMO.

 

The proportions of the pants and shorts are a lot more wearable - the hats are good, and the crazy slouchy pieces retain a bit more form than some of the older pieces from #4.

post #1115 of 1125
There's a lot of great individual pieces that damir put out this season. Not many full looks. Maybe it's just a styling problem?

Enjoyed jjve, lemaire and y3.
Agree with Ivwri, I appreciate jan jans design approach
post #1116 of 1125
damir is one of the jokes of the business now
post #1117 of 1125
all of this shit is a joke which is what mens fashion has become.

basics and shit like Eg at least stand the test of time.
post #1118 of 1125
I visually appreciate a lot of styles more and more even as my desire to actually purchase and wear them has decreased shog[1].gif
post #1119 of 1125
Quote:
Originally Posted by thekunk07 View Post

damir is one of the jokes of the business now

even outside styfo?
post #1120 of 1125
everywhere. aside from silent, his stuff sells even worse than raf simons
post #1121 of 1125
at least on Howard street it seems like every other tall skinny asian dude and every third swagd out fuccboi is wearing raf simons. probably not a good indicator for the rest of the world. rarely see damir in the wild.
post #1122 of 1125
where would i even find a designer's sales figures? a simple google search gives me nuffin
post #1123 of 1125
i think when most people say stuff here they're going by what moves and what sits on the sale rack at 60, 70 80 off etc...
post #1124 of 1125

Good point BamChair... I've been searching for sales figures for menswear-only designers in particular (Raf Simons or Van Assche come to my mind), but can't find nuthin'...

I'm interested in knowing how much "confidential" brands (as opposed to "mainstream" brands as Prada, Gucci,Diesel etc...) performs sales-wise... Maybe the case is different here in Europe, but even a brand as Raf Simons or Damir / Silent is quite confidential here. Besides some fashion aware niches in Paris (hello Fuuma!), the average french fashion buyer / consumer never heard of them...

i'm really curious to know their marketing / business / marketing plan (how many items produced, sales figures, profits, and how many managed to "survive" for that long, i.e Raf ...).

Does anybody have some sort of article or website link about such info?

post #1125 of 1125
So...

I've spent the last couple years following the runway shows pretty closely and I want to get some better opinions. I don't care about fashion in the social sense so I don't follow the news or know how to pronounce names of labels and so forth , but I do think the creativity of the design warrants extreme praise. In many ways, it feels like fashion is the most effective form of creativity in its ability to offer an abundance of materialized creative offerings in the shortest amount of time and effort. So in that sense, it's perfect for my interests which are mostly in poaching design elements that show architectural and structural emphasis, as opposed to eclectic assemblage or deconstructed looks. I'm particularly interested in textural compositions, patterns, and geometrically-refined details, and designs that are both minimalist and intricate. With that said, I'm looking for some opinions of people who know what they're talking about who might be able to offer me more insight into this curious world, so I'm just gonna throw some shit out there in hopes of getting responses on any of it. (Fuuma, that means you buddy!)

1) I'm under the impression that Paris and Milan (to a lesser extent) are vastly superior to New York in quality of design right now related to my interests. Very little of what I see in New York interests me due to what I perceive as a greater emphasis on assemblage and deconstruction. It feels like the interest for Parisian and Milanese designers is much stronger in the thoroughness of construction for individual elements (AW for Balenciaga comes to mind), with far less unresolved details than their New York counterparts (Rodarte comes to mind). Is that a fair assessment? I was under the impression that New York was considered an equal peer to Paris if it had not supplanted it as the center of the fashion design world, but my gut tells me Paris is really cleaning their clock, and that even excludes the couture work.

2) How evenly is the talent of design thought to be distributed between houses of different size, stature, and price point? One would obviously assume the Louis Vuitton's and Chanel will always be offering A-list talent, but are relatively small houses with lower price points ever cited as being equals in design? For the sake of analogies, is fashion similar to baseball whereby the Yankees simply buy out all the best free agent pitching talent every summer?

3) How much are the reviews from the big magazines affected by the reputations of the houses and designers? My casual interest in reading reviews tells me that Lanvin, Chanel, and Marc Jacobs could show a season full of burlap sacks and they'd be critical successes.

4) On a similar note, I see little if any resistance to unwearable, conceptual fashion. It appears smaller houses that trend in that realm can simply get ignored out of convenience to critics, but how can a publication not eventually tell Thom Browne to fuck off?

5) Versace/Tommy Hilger: Am I missing something or have they bought immunity from scorn from influential people? And to a lesser extent, is Oscar de la Renta just adding bird and flower decals to dresses? Or am I missing something?

6) Does anybody have strong thoughts on Valentino's recent offerings? I've been more interested/fascinated by their recent shows than any others right now, despite the fact that my better judgment tells me their fetish with Venetian palazzo muses is over-design at its worst.

7) I'd describe these houses as the bread and butter of my curiosity. Any recommendations for other houses that often feature similar minimalist/structuralist/geometric/neutral design orientations that intricate details? Or in other words, maybe the most refined designs? I just don't know the reputations for design aesthetics outside the major players. There's gotta be a few smaller houses I'm unaware of that play this game.

Balenciaga
Hermes
Valentino
Akris
Calvin Klein
Celine
YSL
Acne Studios
Proenza Schouler
A.P.C.
Armani


8) Or to put it in picture form, I want the opposite of this:



9) These are some slides of appealing designs I just pulled from my computer, if that helps.






































Edited by StephenHero - 9/10/14 at 9:46pm
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