• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • We would like to welcome House of Huntington as an official Affiliate Vendor. Shop past season Drake's, Nigel Cabourn, Private White V.C. and other menswear luxury brands at exceptional prices below retail. Please visit the Houise of Huntington thread and welcome them to the forum.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

ForwardPleats

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
91
Reaction score
78
My vote would go to the Winchelsea. Also without hesitation. I myself prefer pretty much everything on it from the beautiful dark oak to the Norwegian split toe. But you'll be the one wearing it and it seems as if you're more excited over Pimlico. Just look at the way you described the 2.

Oak is nice. It's more practical..

Man, I love these things. The look is so classic I picture myself going back in time and the color perfectly matches that. . The patina will be mine and mine alone.

So sure..my tastes run to that luscious split toe. I'm picturing myself wearing them right now (damn you)..but you're not me..and you being you are picturing yourself with those Pimlico's. Or at least that's what I'm taking out of it.

You mention versatility but is that an actual concern? If you need a versatile shoe then that changes both the question and the answer. I have shoes I've probably worn twice a year at most. They're not versatile at all..but I still like them and enjoy them when I do wear them. I also have a decent size collection of shoes and have no need to wear them more than twice a year. If I needed to add something to my weekly rotation however, I wouldn't even consider them. All that being said..how concerned are you as to versatility? It's your first order..do you want that special less versatile pair to rock (perhaps) a bit less often? Or something simpler to pair so you can show those puppies off with more ease?
I think if I seem a little less excited about the Winchelsea at the moment, it is because the styling overlaps a little bit more with the black Barksdales I already have (such as the split toe and heel counters, both of which I love).

Versatility is definitely key for me. Edward Green is a serious splurge for and my plan is to build a small capsule collection of the highest quality shoes I can afford and wear them a lot. My original plan was a black pair of Pimlicos and a dark oak pair of Winchelseas, but the espresso Pimlico have got me second guessing my original decision.

I can definitely see myself wearing the Winchelseas more often. I also sometimes worry about the Espresso being too dark. If the Pimlico came in a dark oak aniline, I think it would be game over. 😂
 

shoefan57

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2020
Messages
763
Reaction score
1,086
I think if I seem a little less excited about the Winchelsea at the moment, it is because the styling overlaps a little bit more with the black Barksdales I already have (such as the split toe and heel counters, both of which I love).

Versatility is definitely key for me. Edward Green is a serious splurge for and my plan is to build a small capsule collection of the highest quality shoes I can afford and wear them a lot. My original plan was a black pair of Pimlicos and a dark oak pair of Winchelseas, but the espresso Pimlico have got me second guessing my original decision.

I can definitely see myself wearing the Winchelseas more often. I also sometimes worry about the Espresso being too dark. If the Pimlico came in a dark oak aniline, I think it would be game over. 😂
Buy the one you want most. If you don’t you’ll regret it and probably ending up buying it in addition. The Winchelsea is the more costly of the two due the handstitching of the vamp of the shoe.
 

flylikeneagle

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2015
Messages
1,778
Reaction score
8,511
Country calf Galways feel a bit stiff to me and zug seems like it’s at least one step beyond country calf. But maybe that’s not the best way to think about it.

I was looking at these Galways:

I really like these and have considered them myself. But you're correct, Zug's definitely thicker than CC. The leather is less pliable and therefore more restrictive around ankle area.
 

Coolhand0302

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2020
Messages
436
Reaction score
2,635
Utah Galways on 82…

IMG_5672.jpeg
 

Woofa

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2015
Messages
2,056
Reaction score
11,789
Picked up these beauties at an estate sale. Half priced day so only five dollars. Still in great shape.
IMG_20240323_180349.jpg
IMG_20240323_180406.jpg
 

dukenukem4ever

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2019
Messages
1,180
Reaction score
871
Country calf Galways feel a bit stiff to me and zug seems like it’s at least one step beyond country calf. But maybe that’s not the best way to think about it.

I was looking at these Galways:

I have this, very comfortable. Though it’s my only pair of Galway.
 

jazznpool

Active Member
Joined
May 11, 2022
Messages
31
Reaction score
36
I really like these and have considered them myself. But you're correct, Zug's definitely thicker than CC. The leather is less pliable and therefore more restrictive around ankle area.
Zug leather might have a more firm temper but I doubt there’s any significant thickness difference compared to London Grain calf, for example. I recently bought a pair of Willow Zug Dovers on the Ridgeway sole (Gentleman’s Footwear) for traveling. I have other EG shoes including London Grain Dovers. I could be wrong but I think shoemakers like EG split their leathers to a narrow specific thickness range to facilitate the building process.

The Willow Zug Dovers are very slightly more roomy than the same size London Grain Dovers I have. (I did not notice a difference in the pliability of the uppers between them.) The fractional extra room of the Willow Zug Dover allows me to wear a light cushion merino sock I prefer for traveling. They were also comfortable to start with and continue to feel comfortable through a couple days of break-in wear.
By the way the Willow Zugs shown at Gentleman’s Footwear (on sale) are more of a medium brown, not as orangey brown as they appear in the photo. I sure hope EG has enough of the Willow Zug leather left for a 38mm belt!
 

flylikeneagle

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2015
Messages
1,778
Reaction score
8,511
Zug leather might have a more firm temper but I doubt there’s any significant thickness difference compared to London Grain calf, for example. I recently bought a pair of Willow Zug Dovers on the Ridgeway sole (Gentleman’s Footwear) for traveling. I have other EG shoes including London Grain Dovers. I could be wrong but I think shoemakers like EG split their leathers to a narrow specific thickness range to facilitate the building process.

The Willow Zug Dovers are very slightly more roomy than the same size London Grain Dovers I have. (I did not notice a difference in the pliability of the uppers between them.) The fractional extra room of the Willow Zug Dover allows me to wear a light cushion merino sock I prefer for traveling. They were also comfortable to start with and continue to feel comfortable through a couple days of break-in wear.
By the way the Willow Zugs shown at Gentleman’s Footwear (on sale) are more of a medium brown, not as orangey brown as they appear in the photo. I sure hope EG has enough of the Willow Zug leather left for a 38mm belt!
YMMV as they say. The leather on my Cranleigh certainly feels thicker, heftier and less pliable than CC. However this is also a boot, unlike your Dover, and fully lined unlike my CC Galways. To be clear I feel no discomfort while wearing them, in fact they're among my best fitting boots (along with my whiskey shell Galway on 82). Given the style, I always wear these with boot socks and achieve an excellent snug fit.
 

jazznpool

Active Member
Joined
May 11, 2022
Messages
31
Reaction score
36
Zug leather might have a more firm temper but I doubt there’s any significant thickness difference compared to London Grain calf, for example. I recently bought a pair of Willow Zug Dovers on the Ridgeway sole (Gentleman’s Footwear) for traveling. I have other EG shoes including London Grain Dovers. I could be wrong but I think shoemakers like EG split their leathers to a narrow specific thickness range to facilitate the building process.

The Willow Zug Dovers are very slightly more roomy than the same size London Grain Dovers I have. (I did not notice a difference in the pliability of the uppers between them.) The fractional extra room of the Willow Zug Dover allows me to wear a light cushion merino sock I prefer for traveling. They were also comfortable to start with and continue to feel comfortable through a couple days of break-in wear.
By the way the Willow Zugs shown at Gentleman’s Footwear (on sale) are more of a medium brown, not as orangey brown as they appear in the photo. I sure hope EG has enough of the Willow Zug leather left for a 38mm belt!
IMG_0680.jpeg

Here's the Willow Zug Dovers on Ridgeway, stormwelt. Perfect for 3 season travel.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 55 36.2%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 59 38.8%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 17 11.2%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 26 17.1%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 26 17.1%

Forum statistics

Threads
505,159
Messages
10,578,912
Members
223,882
Latest member
anykadaimeni
Top