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Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy - Page 43

post #631 of 14853
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

"Width" is a bit of a misnomer, as most people presume the term refers to the sole measurement (left to right). It is actually the circumference of the last, measured at the ball and other points of the last. The old term "fitting" would be probably more appropriate. In the old days a slim last was fitted-up with additional leather pieces to increase volume; this would also have increased the width of the sole with each additional 'fitting' attached.
The standard rule for the widest point of the sole is the ball measurement divided by 3 plus 10%. Let's do it metric (much easier than dividing inches) a circumference of 240mm : 3 + 10% + 88mm. The increase in circumference from one width to the next is about 5mm, which means the increase (or decrease) in sole width is about 1.5mm from one fitting to the next. Here is a drawing showing a particular last in a given size and different widths. The length remains constant, but the measurement at the widest point changes.
last.png
Most shoe factories (maybe all) do not change the sole shape with every width. The soles are dye-cut (large cookie-cutters) and it is common practice to build two shoe width on the same sole shape (the wider last is higher but not wider at the base, so the wider shoe has more volume but not in every dimension.) EG builds D and E on the same sole shape (this was once confirmed to me by an EG employee.) So E is higher than D, has more volume but is, strictly speaking, not wider than D. I presume with American shoes, although I had that never confirmed, widths C and D are based on the same insole; than a wider one will cover E and EE.
Here is a drawing from a text book (Golding, 1935) comparing a typical English with a typical American last.
last3.png
The American one is wider in the base and shallower, the English one narrower and higher, giving both of them (more or less) the same circumference. I believe that distinction is still the case: American shoes are shallower (some of the Alden loafers can be extremely tight across the instep). So the EG shoe in D (same sole shape, but shallower last) will be closer to the American ideal, than the English E width; the American E width will be wider in the base than the standard English E, but they are quite close to each other in circumference.
I say that with reasonable, but not absolute, certainty as I have not access to the different individual last and so cannot get confirmation by runnig a tape measure over them. But I do not think, that I'm too far off.

This makes perfect sense, which is probably why English shoes fit me better because of my higher instep. Thanks, Bengal.
post #632 of 14853
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

For friends in the UK, the Jermyn Street store now has reductions of up to 40%

I did have a chance to pop into EG today, all the shoes (in my size) I saw were the usual 30% discount. They had more shoes then expected (all the shelves were full of shoes), either they had a lot more shoes on sale this summer or it has been a quiet period for them.

I was disappointed by the lack of black options in my size and width, many in dark brown and a few in blue two; I purchased a pair of their wool socks, anyone know who makes them?
post #633 of 14853
Quote:
Originally Posted by Macallan View Post

I purchased a pair of their wool socks, anyone know who makes them?

Edward Green stocks Gallo socks (possibly the only store in London to carry Gallo).

But whether all of EG's socks are made by Gallo (or only certain designs), I wouldn't know.
post #634 of 14853
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

Edward Green stocks Gallo socks (possibly the only store in London to carry Gallo).
But whether all of EG's socks are made by Gallo (or only certain designs), I wouldn't know.

They are made in Italy, which probably means they are made by Gallo; I did not check the cashmere socks.
post #635 of 14853
EG have confirmed current socks are Bresciani-made, they no longer stock Gallo socks.
post #636 of 14853
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Perths.
post #637 of 14853
Nice combo. Iunno about the double soles, tho.
post #638 of 14853
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post

IMG_5107.jpgWarning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
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Perths.

unique
post #639 of 14853

Just a quick heads up to any EG fans who might not yet know:

 

Leffot have got up to 30% selected EG models on their online store so give them a look if you're interested

post #640 of 14853
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

unique

I agree. Won't be everyone's cup of tea but you won't run into others anywhere.
post #641 of 14853
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post

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Perths.

are these off farfetch.com? if so, any problems with the transaction?
post #642 of 14853
^ that was awesome
post #643 of 14853
Quote:
Originally Posted by Akeem View Post

are these off farfetch.com? if so, any problems with the transaction?

No problems at all. Very fast shipping and receiving (got them 3 days after ordering), plus they pay all import fees and tariffs.

Pretty great.
post #644 of 14853
Can anyone tell me if there is much of a difference between Acorn and Edwardian antique.

Looking at pictures it seems as though Edwardian is a bit darker and Acorn has more of an orange colour to it.

I've already got a shoe in Edwardian and I'm thinking of getting a similar shoe in Acorn. Are the colours too similar for this to be a good idea?
post #645 of 14853

You guys, if you can buy 2 VASS shoes in place of 1 EG, what would you do ? Being close to Budapest i have access to VASS shoes at a very good price but having more than 10 VASS shoes i would like to change a little bit style. I am still hesitating to buy a pair of EG because of price. What would you recommend ?

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