or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy - Page 337

post #5041 of 11735
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTBrummie View Post

As far as I can work out, the problems with lining the Galway stem from its pattern and origins as a field boot.

It was (and still is, on the 64 last) a veldtschoen boot, the construction of which makes it, in its original form, one of the most 'waterproof' forms of leather shoemaking known. The boot has essentially two uppers, the lower upper being the whole-cut piece that is turned out and stitched down to the midsole, and the 'top' upper being welted underneath the stitched-down upper as normal.

Basically, the leg of the boot is part of that second upper and therefore also functions as the lining when you move down to the whole-cut 'outer' upper that forms the body of the boot. If you were to then actually line the leg, then you'd have three layers of leather around the heel of the boot. This would obviously cause some bulk, especially when the original versions of the boots would have been made of zug grain (like the one posted above) or the variations of country calf that I and others on here own.

To get the Galway lined, I think (and this is where someone more knowledgeable than me can chime in), you'd have to make some fundamental changes to the pattern, no? So would it still actually be a Galway as such?

With the shearling-lined Galways, the shearling itself only goes down as far as the outer upper, as I've tried to show here:





It's not just the EG veldt pattern that is similar - look at C&J's Snowdon, which is very similar and also unlined in the leg. I've just commissioned a special order Snowdon from C&J and they stipulated that the leg of the boot would have to be made of a sturdy leather, presumably so that it didn't just flop due to the lack of lining.

The earlier veldt boots by the legendary Lotus and later Tecnic and George Webb are all built like battleships, and never lined in their main patterns.

The only lined veldt boots I've seen have been Cheaney's versions like the Pennine, Fiennes and Mallory boots and also Alfred Sargent's Kelso and Selkirk models which they used to make before going all lah-dee-dah on us. All of these use or used a different pattern to the 'classic' field boot which can accommodate this and, as a result, look different in their own ways.

Does any of that make any sense?

CTBrummie,
It does make sense I knew there must be some reason why not to line it. However I have Galway on 82 last a Goodyear welted version and this one is unlined too. It is really not big deal as I will wear it with the thicker socks I was just curious about lining versus not lining reasoning.
post #5042 of 11735
Quote:
Originally Posted by laufer View Post

CTBrummie,
It does make sense I knew there must be some reason why not to line it. However I have Galway on 82 last a Goodyear welted version and this one is unlined too. It is really not big deal as I will wear it with the thicker socks I was just curious about lining versus not lining reasoning.

I think it would be because the basic pattern is the same, even if the construction isn't. It's still essentially a whole-cut derby boot, if you like, and adding the lining would still mean that you've three layers of leather at the base of the boot leg.

Change this basic pattern and you change the boot.
post #5043 of 11735
Can anyone speak to the fit of the 33 last? TTS? large? narrow?

I may have a chance to pick up a NOS pair form an acquaintance .....
post #5044 of 11735
The 33 last is maybe 1/4 size smaller than the 202. Slightly shorter and also a bit tighter across the vamp.

Don't take my word or it: contact EG and ask if they agree with my analysis.
post #5045 of 11735
Yes, what bengal said. I think the 33 is generally narrower and shorter in the toe box than the 202. I'm not sure going up in size would help - if anything, you'd want to get a wider width. That being said, its certainly wearable in your normal size. Its just that after 8 hours or so, you'll feel a little soreness in your outer toes. In my opinion.

Cole Haan apparently used to swear by the 33 - that's the only last that I've seen EGs made on for the company.

If it helps, there are photos on my EG last evolution post that might allow you to see the differences better:

http://uptowndandy.blogspot.com/2012/03/evolution-of-last-edward-green-from-to.html
post #5046 of 11735
I tried on this shoe in the 346 Madison Avenue store. I believe this is EG's tobacco color. I didn't look at the box label to confirm, though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sevenfoldtieguy View Post

http://www.brooksbrothers.com/Edward-Green-Suede-Wingtip-Monks/MH00329,default,pd.html?dwvar_MH00329_Color=LTBR&contentpos=9&cgid=

Anyone own this shoe? Can anyone confirm the suede color that EG would designate if it was sold thru EG directly and not thru BB? BB merely calls it "tan."
post #5047 of 11735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arethusa406 View Post

I tried on this shoe in the 346 Madison Avenue store. I believe this is EG's tobacco color. I didn't look at the box label to confirm, though.

Thanks.
post #5048 of 11735
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

The 33 last is maybe 1/4 size smaller than the 202. Slightly shorter and also a bit tighter across the vamp.

Don't take my word or it: contact EG and ask if they agree with my analysis.

Thanks.
post #5049 of 11735
Double post-sorry
post #5050 of 11735
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhiloVance View Post

Yes, what bengal said. I think the 33 is generally narrower and shorter in the toe box than the 202. I'm not sure going up in size would help - if anything, you'd want to get a wider width. That being said, its certainly wearable in your normal size. Its just that after 8 hours or so, you'll feel a little soreness in your outer toes. In my opinion.

Cole Haan apparently used to swear by the 33 - that's the only last that I've seen EGs made on for the company.

If it helps, there are photos on my EG last evolution post that might allow you to see the differences better:

http://uptowndandy.blogspot.com/2012/03/evolution-of-last-edward-green-from-to.html

Thanks.
post #5051 of 11735
Hi guys, besides woodlore's epic trees, may I know which other 3rd party trees are a good fit for EG 888? Thanks!
post #5052 of 11735
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTBrummie View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
As far as I can work out, the problems with lining the Galway stem from its pattern and origins as a field boot.

It was (and still is, on the 64 last) a veldtschoen boot, the construction of which makes it, in its original form, one of the most 'waterproof' forms of leather shoemaking known. The boot has essentially two uppers, the lower upper being the whole-cut piece that is turned out and stitched down to the midsole, and the 'top' upper being welted underneath the stitched-down upper as normal.

Basically, the leg of the boot is part of that second upper and therefore also functions as the lining when you move down to the whole-cut 'outer' upper that forms the body of the boot. If you were to then actually line the leg, then you'd have three layers of leather around the heel of the boot. This would obviously cause some bulk, especially when the original versions of the boots would have been made of zug grain (like the one posted above) or the variations of country calf that I and others on here own.

To get the Galway lined, I think (and this is where someone more knowledgeable than me can chime in), you'd have to make some fundamental changes to the pattern, no? So would it still actually be a Galway as such?

With the shearling-lined Galways, the shearling itself only goes down as far as the outer upper, as I've tried to show here:





It's not just the EG veldt pattern that is similar - look at C&J's Snowdon, which is very similar and also unlined in the leg. I've just commissioned a special order Snowdon from C&J and they stipulated that the leg of the boot would have to be made of a sturdy leather, presumably so that it didn't just flop due to the lack of lining.

The earlier veldt boots by the legendary Lotus and later Tecnic and George Webb are all built like battleships, and never lined in their main patterns.

The only lined veldt boots I've seen have been Cheaney's versions like the Pennine, Fiennes and Mallory boots and also Alfred Sargent's Kelso and Selkirk models which they used to make before going all lah-dee-dah on us. All of these use or used a different pattern to the 'classic' field boot which can accommodate this and, as a result, look different in their own ways.
Does any of that make any sense?

It makes fairly good sense and thanks for the very informative post.

That being said, when my mto comes in from George Bass, I'll have to ask them again about lined galways. They claimed that EG will make it for them, but I'm not so sure.
post #5053 of 11735

Thank you so much for you inputs, they are much appreciated

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patek View Post

What does the price of a factory refurbishment run?

 

I've been quoted 195 pounds plus shipping. Initially they suggested picking the shoes up at my place (I live in Denmark) and the door-to-door price would be a whopping 275 pounds. So, cheap as I am, I just sent the boots off on my own which was a lot cheaper.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by CTBrummie View Post
 

 

Dainite is sleeker but Medway better on wet or icy pavements. I'd take the Medway any day as I don't rate the studded Dainite sole highly, but I walk a lot so my priorities might be different to yours...I'd also not lose the storm welt if you might want to wear these outside.

 

I think I'll actually go for the Dainite, since I won't use these as field boots (I have my C&J Islays for that, though unfortunately they are Dainite – I'll like them replaced with Medway or Ridgeway next time they'll need a resole). The storm welt question will probably solve itself since they most likely can't replace it with a regular welt. But we'll see.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

Post pics when they come back.

 

Don't worry, when they come back you can forget all about spoiler alerts, it will be all like this.

 

Cheers,

SKM

post #5054 of 11735
Quote:
Originally Posted by barky View Post

Hi guys, besides woodlore's epic trees, may I know which other 3rd party trees are a good fit for EG 888? Thanks!

http://www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk/collections/shoetrees-price-asc/products/as-exclusive-lasted-beech-shoe-trees-724

http://yolowastaken.tumblr.com/post/38571975037/lasted-shoe-trees-are-they-worth-the-cost
post #5055 of 11735

Thanks Namor but those are approx. the same price as EG, which I intend to get when EG goes on sale at the end of the year.  In the meantime, I need a lower cost alternative.  Any idea on the saphir trees?

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy