Originally Posted by Pliny
... and according to Sevan Minasian of 'Classic Shoes for Men':
The term "Norwegian" is used promiscuously to refer to several styles of shoe, notably the "Split-Toe Norwegian" with its outward turned moccasin-like apron and joining at the toe, and among Italian shoemakers, of a variety styles with decorative double sewn welts. Unlike in the present shoe, the sewing is mostly non-functional and conceals construction even as rudimentary as Blake Stitching. Very few of those are the true complex Goiser/Norwegian construction, wherin both the split reverse welt and the top leather are turned outward and sewn to the street sole, as shown here.This is the most complex of all shoe construction techniques and very few such shoes are produced in the world.
The term "Goiser" is derived from Bad Goisern in the Salzkammergut region of Austria. This construction was once commonly found in hand-made all-purpose mountain shoes worn in that region of the Alps and was intended to prevent water from entering through the seams.
I believe in this quote, split reverse welt and Goiserer/Bentivegna welt are muddled-up.
The conventional welt is stitched underneath the shoe. The 'split-reverse welt' is split lengthwise at half the thickness and half the width. The top section forms a lip going up the shoe and the lower section is stitched conventionally underneath (no additional and visible row of stitching). The Goiserer/Bentigegna welt is not split, but stitched to the outside of the shoe. So. there is a visible and decorative row of stitches. 'Norwegian construction' has the upper leather turned outside, taking the function of the welt.
Different shoemakers/firms have developed their own hybrid versions and might threat the visible rows of stitching in a more decorative manner. (Some of these decorative stitches were even invented to hide the fact that the functional stitches are spaced quite far apart, as big stitches speed-up the process and save time and money.)
Then there is the 'Norwegian' style of shoe, which. of course can be produced in any type of construction. Member 'dopey' owns a pair of bespoke shoes (made by Janne Melkersson) which are 'Norwegian' in style and
construction. A rare beast indeed.
As you might know from Rose Nylund ('Golden Girls') things Norwegian are always
complicated: "We in St. Olaf........"