I have a hard time with 202 vs 82 at certain angles.
Willow calf is a rare bird. Congrats, they look great. I've been looking for a pair of Dovers on the 202 with Willow for a long time.
'It's Norwegian construction. The upper leather is folded to the outside, hence no welt.'
Okay now I'm confused- did a bit of digging, and have found that not only do people who should know use Norwegian/Goiser interchangeably, but that the welt is optional in Norwegian construction, according to La Botte Chantilly.
'The Norwegian construction type can be made with or without a welt.
The filling offers great comfort and good resistance. The shoes made according to this process give good support to the foot and show a high level of resistance to humidity.'
... and according to Sevan Minasian of 'Classic Shoes for Men':
Thx- and totally, the two lasts can look very similar from this angle IMO
+1 EG stopped producing shoes with willow, but AFAIK it's not hard to make- something to do with the 'boarding' of the leather, which is the way the roll it.
Great news about the stash- I'd like a Dover in Chestnut willow
Hendrix, does the Goiser stitch go with a welt?
Guys, I found this very interesting explanation of the 'Norweger' style. Looks like it did indeed come from Norway to GB and the States
In the late 19th century, fishermen and farmers in Aurland and the Sognefjord area in Western Norway were known for making light moccasin style shoes, initially for their own use, but occasionally for sale, which developed into a cottage industry.
In the second half of the 19th century, there was an influx of upper-class British sports salmon fishermen to the rivers of coastal Norway, particularly western Norway. The salmon season would start in mid-summer, and would last into early autumn. The “salmon lords”, as they were called locally, wanted a light shoe that could easily be slipped on and off during riverside fishing.
Two villagers, Vebjørn S. Vangen and Andreas S. Vangen, started making and repairing shoes for the British fishermen, until production of the light moccasin became a full-time employment for them.
Another villager, Nils Tveranger, was the first to start regular production of the model still known in Norway as the ”Aurland shoe”. It was exhibited at the Paris exposition in 1900. The Aurland shoe obtained its present form in the twenties.
After WWII, production increased greatly, and in the 1950’s around 90 people in the village were employed in shoe production, in 12 different small workshops in the village. This industry dominated the life of the entire village, just on the strength of employment numbers. The present firm called “Aurlandsko” was established in the late forties.
In the late sixties, a hydro-electric power-plant was built near Aurdal, and most people in the village found better-paid work at the power-plant. The factory presently has six employees. Production, which in the early years was mainly done in private homes and small shops, is today centralized in a modern factory.
Bass “Weejuns”: In 1876, George Henry Bass created the G.H. Bass shoe company, and in 1910 he introduced the camp “Mocc”, a soft leather moccasin that challenged the hard dress shoes of the day. In 1936 the Bass Shoe Co introduced an adaptation of a Norwegian fishermen moccasin style shoe named “Weejun” combining “Norwegian” and “Injun”. Weejuns are also referred to as penny loafers because of a semi-pocket featured on the vamp, into which a penny can be slipped.
BTW the Aurland shoe factory is still there in Norway, as a 'museum-factotry' still producing the original Norweger.. http://www.visitflam.com/aurland-shoe-factory/
Sos about the non-EG discussion, but's interesting.
my bad- with the medallion it's the 'Lichfield' and I think it looks terrific on that last, whatever it is
an Adelaide cap-toe has got to be one of the nicest traditional styles IMO And If it were me I'd get it in a burgundy or dark oak rather than a chestnut. - much more versatile, and on the 82 last rather than the 202, if you're looking for a rounded toe. I find the 202 really hard to match with trousers.
Westbound- the Canterbury ^^ is def on the 82 and looks a lot like your Lichfield no?