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Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy - Page 74

post #1096 of 13223
Quote:
on the 82, willow calf.

I have a hard time with 202 vs 82 at certain angles.

Willow calf is a rare bird. Congrats, they look great. I've been looking for a pair of Dovers on the 202 with Willow for a long time.
post #1097 of 13223
did not know-  r these the 'carter'-   with 3 eyes?

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Look like "ectons" in EG speak.
post #1098 of 13223
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post


Surely, the original version of a Norwegian must come from Norway. Here is Jan Petter Myrhe's version (the only Norwegian shoemaker myself, or any other member of this forum, knows). His version is much closer to Edward Green than Vass. He utilizes a heel counter and avoids the clunky high-walled last as well as the raw turned-up leather edges, which deominate the Austro/Hungarian version. Myrhe being Norwegian, must count for something.
http://www.styleforum.net/t/12282/let-me-introduce-myself-j-p-myhre-bespoke-shoemaker#post_141937
It might be, the Austro/Hungarian version is nothing but a bastardisation and simplification of the Norwegian original. It might be in old Norway they were two different versions around, one for the peasants and one for smart town folks.
Only a Norwegian shoe historian can tell us what the distinctive features of a Norwegian shoe are.

 

 

Quote:  Bengal

 

'It's Norwegian construction. The upper leather is folded to the outside, hence no welt.'

 

 

Okay now I'm confused-  did a bit of digging, and have found that not only do people who should know use Norwegian/Goiser interchangeably, but that  the welt is optional in Norwegian construction, according to La Botte Chantilly.

 

norvegien_croquis_21_us.gif

 

 

 

'The Norwegian construction type can be made with or without a welt.
The filling offers great comfort and good resistance. The shoes made according to this process give good support to the foot and show a high level of resistance to humidity.'

 

 

 

... and according to Sevan Minasian of 'Classic Shoes for Men':

 

Norwegian/Goiser Construction:

The term "Norwegian" is used promiscuously to refer to several styles of shoe, notably the "Split-Toe Norwegian" with its outward turned moccasin-like apron and joining at the toe, and among Italian shoemakers, of a variety styles with decorative double sewn welts. Unlike in the present shoe, the sewing is mostly non-functional and conceals construction even as rudimentary as Blake Stitching. Very few of those are the true complex Goiser/Norwegian construction, wherin both the split reverse welt and the top leather are turned outward and sewn to the street sole, as shown here.This is the most complex of all shoe construction techniques and very few such shoes are produced in the world.
The term "Goiser" is derived from Bad Goisern in the Salzkammergut region of Austria. This construction was once commonly found in hand-made all-purpose mountain shoes worn in that region of the Alps and was intended to prevent water from entering through the seams.
 
 
 
 
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post


I have a hard time with 202 vs 82 at certain angles.
Willow calf is a rare bird. Congrats, they look great. I've been looking for a pair of Dovers on the 202 with Willow for a long time.

 

Thx-  and totally, the two lasts can look very similar from this angle IMO

 

 

 

 


Edited by Pliny - 9/6/12 at 8:50pm
post #1099 of 13223
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post

I've been looking for a pair of Dovers on the 202 with Willow for a long time.

I believe they are are MTO at this point.

The leather was discontinued as of a few years ago, but I think they found a stash in the back or did a re-issue.
post #1100 of 13223
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post


I believe they are are MTO at this point.
The leather was discontinued as of a few years ago, but I think they found a stash in the back or did a re-issue.

 

 

+1  EG stopped producing shoes with willow, but AFAIK it's not hard to make-  something to do with the 'boarding' of the leather, which is the way the roll it.

 

Great news about the stash-  I'd like a Dover in Chestnut willow inlove.gif

post #1101 of 13223
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post


+1  EG stopped producing shoes with willow, but AFAIK it's not hard to make-  something to do with the 'boarding' of the leather, which is the way the roll it.

Great news about the stash-  I'd like a Dover in Chestnut willow inlove.gif

Not sure about Chestnut, but they had Dark Oak Willow last year. My Dovers on the 606 agree with that! :^)
post #1102 of 13223
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post

The term "Norwegian" is used promiscuously to refer to several styles of shoe, notably the "Split-Toe Norwegian" with its outward turned moccasin-like apron and joining at the toe, and among Italian shoemakers, of a variety styles with decorative

double sewn welts. Unlike in the present shoe, the sewing is mostly non-functional and conceals construction even as rudimentary as Blake Stitching. Very few of those are the true complex Goiser/Norwegian construction, wherin both the split reverse welt and the top leather are turned outward and sewn to the street sole, as shown here.This is the most complex of all shoe construction techniques and very few such shoes are produced in the world.

This is very similar to Bentivegna construction. Actually, some Italians use the term "Tirolese" for goyserer stitching e.g. piergiacomi:



I would question how well norvegese stitching without a welt holds up compared to stitching with a welt, but by all accounts they're fine.
post #1103 of 13223

Hendrix, does the Goiser stitch go with a welt?

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post


Surely, the original version of a Norwegian must come from Norway. Here is Jan Petter Myrhe's version (the only Norwegian shoemaker myself, or any other member of this forum, knows). His version is much closer to Edward Green than Vass. He utilizes a heel counter and avoids the clunky high-walled last as well as the raw turned-up leather edges, which dominate the Austro/Hungarian version. Myrhe being Norwegian, must count for something.
http://www.styleforum.net/t/12282/let-me-introduce-myself-j-p-myhre-bespoke-shoemaker#post_141937
It might be, the Austro/Hungarian version is nothing but a bastardisation and simplification of the Norwegian original. It might be in old Norway they were two different versions around, one for the peasants and one for smart town folks.
Only a Norwegian shoe historian can tell us what the distinctive features of a Norwegian shoe are.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post


sure. vass' rendition is to be close to the original which is a mocassin like style as stated in vox's write up, nothing else. actually, it depends on the last, not? look out for gdl203's and we can talk again.
nothing austrian-hungarian about the norweger. afaik, it initally found his way in our terroir as a boot, a working boot and got urbanized. i'll check that, mebbe.

 

 

Guys, I found this very interesting explanation of the 'Norweger' style.  Looks like it did indeed come from Norway to GB and the States

 

 

In the late 19th century, fishermen and farmers in Aurland and the Sognefjord area in Western Norway were known for making light moccasin style shoes, initially for their own use, but occasionally for sale, which developed into a cottage industry.

In the second half of the 19th century, there was an influx of upper-class British sports salmon fishermen to the rivers of coastal Norway, particularly western Norway. The salmon season would start in mid-summer, and would last into early autumn. The “salmon lords”, as they were called locally, wanted a light shoe that could easily be slipped on and off during riverside fishing.

Two villagers, Vebjørn S. Vangen and Andreas S. Vangen, started making and repairing shoes for the British fishermen, until production of the light moccasin became a full-time employment for them. 

Another villager, Nils Tveranger, was the first to start regular production of the model still known in Norway as the ”Aurland shoe”. It was exhibited at the Paris exposition in 1900. The Aurland shoe obtained its present form in the twenties.

After WWII, production increased greatly, and in the 1950’s around 90 people in the village were employed in shoe production, in 12 different small workshops in the village. This industry dominated the life of the entire village, just on the strength of employment numbers. The present firm called “Aurlandsko” was established in the late forties.

In the late sixties, a hydro-electric power-plant was built near Aurdal, and most people in the village found better-paid work at the power-plant. The factory presently has six employees. Production, which in the early years was mainly done in private homes and small shops, is today centralized in a modern factory. 

Bass “Weejuns”: In 1876, George Henry Bass created the G.H. Bass shoe company, and in 1910 he introduced the camp “Mocc”, a soft leather moccasin that challenged the hard dress shoes of the day. In 1936 the Bass Shoe Co introduced an adaptation of a Norwegian fishermen moccasin style shoe named “Weejun” combining “Norwegian” and “Injun”. Weejuns are also referred to as penny loafers because of a semi-pocket featured on the vamp, into which a penny can be slipped.

 

BTW  the Aurland shoe factory is still there in Norway, as a 'museum-factotry' still producing the original Norweger..  http://www.visitflam.com/aurland-shoe-factory/

 

Sos about the non-EG discussion, but's interesting.

post #1104 of 13223
Can any of you guys ID the the below oxfords by EG? I'm thinking Chestnut on the color (?), but which last are they on and what's the style name?

post #1105 of 13223

Looks like the Canterbury with medallion.  On the 82 perhaps

post #1106 of 13223
Sure does. Do you know if the Canterbury comes with the medallion, or was that pair more than likely Made to Order?
post #1107 of 13223
Quote:ndy
Originally Posted by Westbound View Post

Sure does. Do you know if the Canterbury comes with the medallion, or was that pair more than likely Made to Order?

 

my bad-   with the medallion it's the 'Lichfield'  and I think it looks terrific on that last, whatever it is

 

an Adelaide cap-toe has got to be one of the nicest traditional styles IMO    And If it were me I'd get it in a burgundy or dark oak rather than a chestnut.   -  much more versatile,  and on the 82 last rather than the 202, if you're looking for a rounded toe.  I find the 202 really hard to match with trousers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Westbound-  the Canterbury ^^  is def on the 82 and looks a lot like your Lichfield no?


Edited by Pliny - 9/6/12 at 10:45pm
post #1108 of 13223
I agree. That whole getup is perfect on that last.

So Lichfield it is (thanks, Pliny), but does anyone know for sure if that's the 82?
post #1109 of 13223
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post

an Adelaide cap-toe has got to be one of the nicest traditional styles IMO    And If it were me I'd get it in a burgundy or dark oak rather than a chestnut.   -  much more versatile,  and on the 82 last rather than the 202, if you're looking for a rounded toe.  I find the 202 really hard to match with trousers.

Yea', you're right, but I have way too many shades of dark brown / oak / etc, so I need to branch out a bit. Plus, that color (albeit not the most versatile) is extremely nice. And the toe is beyond perfect. Hope someone chimes in and confirms whether or not it's the 82.
Edited by Westbound - 9/6/12 at 10:56pm
post #1110 of 13223
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post

Snip snip. wink.gif

no. the procedure has been explained to him several times, though.
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