I currently wear mostly Isaia in a 38R, and I prefer a trim fit (5'11", 160lbs). Their base S is a bit loose for me - I like the silhouette of their more tapered cuts or something like a Paul Smith, but not ridiculously slim - and with a soft Neapolitan shoulder like my Isaias have and a high arm hole. I have picked up all of my Isaias at the Barneys Warehouse Sale, so I have never paid more than about 40% of retail.
That said, I am thinking about possibly moving up a notch to bespoke. I have been reading in the forums about the different Hong Kong tailors (I have bought all my shirts from Jantzen, but actually traveling to Hong Kong is not in the cards for me). Consequently, I was wondering about bespoke options in NYC. I would like to keep the price under $1500 for something in a decent fabric - something that wears well and is not over the top (any fabric recommendations?).
To that end, does anyone have any recommendations for bespoke options in NYC? WW Chan will be here next week (emailed to request an appointment, but got no response) - but I am a bit concerned about the idea of doing bespoke without a second fitting. Should I think about starting with a cheaper option like mytailor.com and then using that as a pattern for someone like Chan? Are there other names I should consider? Anyone based in NYC who is reasonable? Quality is important - I am not interested in a fused jacket, or someone who cuts corners on construction.
Thanks for your help.