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My second bespoke suit - Graham Browne review and beyond (add Base Fitting + Second Fitting) - Page 4

post #46 of 55
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR View Post

Congratulations, you achieved an excellent suit.
A few thoughts:
The coat is a good example of a more military style as you say and the shoulders, high arm holes and back are very good. The only concern that I would have is that perhaps the button point is slightly too high for you and the front/rear balance is not quite right which makes the front look a tad short. Nothing to be concerned at but food for thought in your next commission. Sleeve length is good. Were you offered a satin lining - I find them more comfortable to wear and if not it might be worth trying one next time. Lear, Brown and Dunsford offer a number in the T3xx range which I like. Are the inside pockets placed high - one cannot tell without a full inside view.
The trousers are especially good and the rise, fit through thigh and legs and leg length are really excellent. It is a great pity that the fish tail back was omitted as you lamented earlier as that would have benefited fit at the rear and been a shade cleaner but that trait is not serious: I do find a gentle fishtail back makes trousers more comfortable to wear. I do not normally like men's trousers without back pockets but this pair because of their fit these do look fine. It is very unusual for someone from Hong Kong not to have two back pockets - and use them in my experience, what made you drop them? The fob/watch pocket is also very neatly done, a very fine welt allows it to merge discretely into the waist band. I find this a useful addition and always have one - why did you choose beneath the waist band rather than one at the top in a 'split' waist band? I would be interested in your thoughts on this detail.
The waist coat is interesting; I would agree with you that it is a little tight and that there is some pulling at the front although with the fine coat that is not an issue. I do agree with you about the waist coat and covering braces and so no problems with a DB suit in my view, a good choice. I do not personally like the style with lapels (pure personal and not a criticism), I prefer a cleaner cut but you point about the pockets is well made. Have you ever thought about having extra ticket pockets in the coat - I have four, two either side in addition to breast pockets and that is a useful alternative to a wast coat. Clearly you have thought about the practicality of a a suit for you and that is a key thing to get from bespoke.
Many thanks for taking the time to publish these photographs, you have an excellent suit, congratulations. I look forward to seeing your next commission after you have had some experience of this one, that should be night perfect - second commissions always do improve in the minor detail based upon experience.

Thanks for the insightful comment, I did ask them about the length of the coat, they said it is 'alright' and not too short, I reckon in terms of recent trend it is ok. The reason you guys find the button point high is because the coat is short, it is actually natural waist compare with my other bespoke suit. Next time I would have better idea of how a more relaxed, wide and longer DB. The lining is silk, very sure about that, Russell did not told me they have either cupro or satin, I would have prefer the former because it is lighter weight and better breathability.

I stress the high rise of trouser, it seems UK makers are not usual with high rise for their young clients, I hate mid-low rise for dress trouser, and frankly happy with them. The waistcoat is the weakness of all, it is a bit too tight. also I would have prefer peak lapel rather than notch, anyway not going to kill me.

I only have three inside pockets, 2 each side for the chest and one lower one in the left hand side. I find the pockets more than enough. If I need to carry anything, I often carry a portfolio handheld bag so I don't really use the pockets.

Now, I am just wonder how I can ask the tailor to make a DB with a more open quarter, now it shows 2 shirt buttons and really I would like to show 4, os the waistcoat would be possible to see. next time I am going to have DB waistcoat as well so it is fine, if that is not possible than I would simply have the TF 3 piece design which my tailor is very good with it.

The sleeves pitch is actually perfect, just my bad posture and omission to neat it up after wearing a watch. However, I like the sleeves to be wider so it looks even more drapy and clean.

My ideal DB:
7226959962_df24ff728c.jpg
Flickr 上 CHA-K350x461px-LL-af05e482_attolininavydoublebreascv87226949546_af5acf0f25.jpg
Flickr 上 CHA-Kjakt1pk17226950562_7fe27768a0.jpg
Flickr 上 CHA-Ktumblr_lu28e9TUYu1qhomn5o1_5007226950660_a822a02b60.jpg
Flickr 上 CHA-Ktom-ford-2347226950286_0f4314a46b.jpg
Flickr 上 CHA-K990195755_c3eae06c_2

some ideas of SB in case things don't go well, e.g. tailor not sure of my requirement:
7226950364_2ee33e8122.jpg
Flickr 上 CHA-Ktumblr_lva2vbJpoH1qfbji5o1_500
7226950074_406c7e9848.jpg
Flickr 上 CHA-Ktumblr_m15kryKG9Z1qh2pv5o1_12807226949876_41182ed656.jpg
Flickr 上 CHA-Ktumblr_lu6zmcB9VR1qhomn5o1_500

Preferred SB;
7226949344_8e7637fd5f.jpg
Flickr 上 CHA-Ktumblr_m0xnrlz55d1qhxld1o2_5007226949648_994f62deaf.jpg
Flickr 上 CHA-Kb0162048_112894
Note this is clearly a bit short, but good idea on the cut away design7226949750_d74ae4cdc4.jpg
Flickr 上 CHA-Ktumblr_lr9aspxVPS1r1hj3po1_500

Please advice on the change of DB.
post #47 of 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

Thanks for the insightful comment, I did ask them about the length of the coat, they said it is 'alright' and not too short, I reckon in terms of recent trend it is ok. The reason you guys find the button point high is because the coat is short, it is actually natural waist compare with my other bespoke suit. Next time I would have better idea of how a more relaxed, wide and longer DB. The lining is silk, very sure about that, Russell did not told me they have either cupro or satin, I would have prefer the former because it is lighter weight and better breathability.
I stress the high rise of trouser, it seems UK makers are not usual with high rise for their young clients, I hate mid-low rise for dress trouser, and frankly happy with them. The waistcoat is the weakness of all, it is a bit too tight. also I would have prefer peak lapel rather than notch, anyway not going to kill me.
I only have three inside pockets, 2 each side for the chest and one lower one in the left hand side. I find the pockets more than enough. If I need to carry anything, I often carry a portfolio handheld bag so I don't really use the pockets.
Now, I am just wonder how I can ask the tailor to make a DB with a more open quarter, now it shows 2 shirt buttons and really I would like to show 4, os the waistcoat would be possible to see. next time I am going to have DB waistcoat as well so it is fine, if that is not possible than I would simply have the TF 3 piece design which my tailor is very good with it.
The sleeves pitch is actually perfect, just my bad posture and omission to neat it up after wearing a watch. However, I like the sleeves to be wider so it looks even more drapy and clean.
My ideal DB:
7226959962_df24ff728c.jpg
Please advice on the change of DB.

The eye may indeed be taken higher to the button point by the shorter coat- the possible problem is that the current fashion will be short lived, I suspect that your cutter felt it short by simply describing it as 'alright'. It is but in the current fashion and the quality will carry it.

I entirely agree that UK (and other ) tailors seem reluctant to accept that young clients want high rise trousers: However congratulations you have succeeded, so with a fish tail back you will have the finest trousers which hang correctly and are most comfortable.

Silk lining may be a tad warm even in the UK, it tends not to breath so I would agree, cupro or satin - I prefer the latter as it is 'slippery' and allows an easy movement when wearing the coat. The additional inside pockets I suggested were a suggestion to supplement or replace those of the waist coat - especially if you have a two pocket one as in the example of your preferred SB with double breast waist coat: that suit too is elegant. Sleeves are fine in this coat.


I would suggest that you take the photograph of the DB coat next time you visit to give your cutter a better idea than words can describe. I am not sure about 'open quarters' in a DB) but if this is your ideal (and it is a very elegant classic cut, then take it with you - the slight extra length is well shown. If you want to show a little of the waist coat then I suspect that the upper button point would need to be slightly lower which is possible even in a two button DB coat. Sadly I do not immediately have any photographs but I have seen some where this is done well.


I am sure that you will enjoy wearing this suit, good luck with the next, your thoughts will be better developed and the outcome even better.
post #48 of 55
Doesn't look good. Makes you look small
post #49 of 55
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Doesn't look good. Makes you look small

Looks quiet good in real life, so that is fine. it is just really hard to capture the good angle.
post #50 of 55
I wish that there was a good term for bespoke clothes made to satisfy people who do not wear the clothes.

I bet the ancient Greeks had a word for this, dating to a time before the Euro.
post #51 of 55
^ Photosharporialists?

- M
post #52 of 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

I wish that there was a good term for bespoke clothes made to satisfy people who do not wear the clothes.
I bet the ancient Greeks had a word for this, dating to a time before the Euro.

Dare one ask why?
post #53 of 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Doesn't look good. Makes you look small


Disagree
post #54 of 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by Not Ed Harris View Post


I had Graham Browne make me a Dashing Tweeds suit for my wedding about a year and a half ago. Cost a fair bit but certainly don't regret it.
Which tweed are you going for?

 

In the end I couldn't go with Graham Browne simply because I am was not going to be in the UK as many times this year as I thought, so I had to go for a not-quite-fully-bespoke process through Walker Slater. Mind you, the initial consultation and measurements seemed to be just as thorough. But it will involve only one further visit rather than two or three more. Mine's going to be in the Fleet cloth (which Dashing Tweeds aren't selling at the moment - I got the last end of roll piece).

post #55 of 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

I wish that there was a good term for bespoke clothes made to satisfy people who do not wear the clothes.

I bet the ancient Greeks had a word for this, dating to a time before the Euro.

 

Demoeidodoxia...? biggrin.gif

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