Congratulations, you achieved an excellent suit.
A few thoughts:
The coat is a good example of a more military style as you say and the shoulders, high arm holes and back are very good. The only concern that I would have is that perhaps the button point is slightly too high for you and the front/rear balance is not quite right which makes the front look a tad short. Nothing to be concerned at but food for thought in your next commission. Sleeve length is good. Were you offered a satin lining - I find them more comfortable to wear and if not it might be worth trying one next time. Lear, Brown and Dunsford offer a number in the T3xx range which I like. Are the inside pockets placed high - one cannot tell without a full inside view.
The trousers are especially good and the rise, fit through thigh and legs and leg length are really excellent. It is a great pity that the fish tail back was omitted as you lamented earlier as that would have benefited fit at the rear and been a shade cleaner but that trait is not serious: I do find a gentle fishtail back makes trousers more comfortable to wear. I do not normally like men's trousers without back pockets but this pair because of their fit these do look fine. It is very unusual for someone from Hong Kong not to have two back pockets - and use them in my experience, what made you drop them? The fob/watch pocket is also very neatly done, a very fine welt allows it to merge discretely into the waist band. I find this a useful addition and always have one - why did you choose beneath the waist band rather than one at the top in a 'split' waist band? I would be interested in your thoughts on this detail.
The waist coat is interesting; I would agree with you that it is a little tight and that there is some pulling at the front although with the fine coat that is not an issue. I do agree with you about the waist coat and covering braces and so no problems with a DB suit in my view, a good choice. I do not personally like the style with lapels (pure personal and not a criticism), I prefer a cleaner cut but you point about the pockets is well made. Have you ever thought about having extra ticket pockets in the coat - I have four, two either side in addition to breast pockets and that is a useful alternative to a wast coat. Clearly you have thought about the practicality of a a suit for you and that is a key thing to get from bespoke.
Many thanks for taking the time to publish these photographs, you have an excellent suit, congratulations. I look forward to seeing your next commission after you have had some experience of this one, that should be night perfect - second commissions always do improve in the minor detail based upon experience.
Thanks for the insightful comment, I did ask them about the length of the coat, they said it is 'alright' and not too short, I reckon in terms of recent trend it is ok. The reason you guys find the button point high is because the coat is short, it is actually natural waist compare with my other bespoke suit. Next time I would have better idea of how a more relaxed, wide and longer DB. The lining is silk, very sure about that, Russell did not told me they have either cupro or satin, I would have prefer the former because it is lighter weight and better breathability.
I stress the high rise of trouser, it seems UK makers are not usual with high rise for their young clients, I hate mid-low rise for dress trouser, and frankly happy with them. The waistcoat is the weakness of all, it is a bit too tight. also I would have prefer peak lapel rather than notch, anyway not going to kill me.
I only have three inside pockets, 2 each side for the chest and one lower one in the left hand side. I find the pockets more than enough. If I need to carry anything, I often carry a portfolio handheld bag so I don't really use the pockets.
Now, I am just wonder how I can ask the tailor to make a DB with a more open quarter, now it shows 2 shirt buttons and really I would like to show 4, os the waistcoat would be possible to see. next time I am going to have DB waistcoat as well so it is fine, if that is not possible than I would simply have the TF 3 piece design which my tailor is very good with it.
The sleeves pitch is actually perfect, just my bad posture and omission to neat it up after wearing a watch. However, I like the sleeves to be wider so it looks even more drapy and clean.
My ideal DB:
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some ideas of SB in case things don't go well, e.g. tailor not sure of my requirement:
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Note this is clearly a bit short, but good idea on the cut away design
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Please advice on the change of DB.