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My second bespoke suit - Graham Browne review and beyond (add Base Fitting + Second Fitting) - Page 3

post #31 of 55
If this is the style you want, no problem.

If the fronts cross over so high, why do you wear a vest with this suit?
post #32 of 55

That's a gd point. Clean forgot there was a vest thrown in the mix.

post #33 of 55
Thread Starter 
I believe only the vest lapel will be shown, no buttons...

Adds the clean DB look? TBH this is their house style I believed.

But I had just checked, the buttoning position is not high because it is in the natural waist when I compare other jackets of mine.

This cut is surely not the norm but really why I would want to look the same as most DB wearers? With their 'Italian' massive lapels and high gorged position?

I love the individuality of the garment, and surely adds a good conservative suit for my loud collections.
post #34 of 55
When you go for the next fitting it would be good if you could get photographs showing trousers - fit on waist, vest without the coat please. Braces without fish tail interesting.

Shots of the inside of the coat would be good also to show the finish, way in which pockets are set etc - often neglected when looking at a suit.
post #35 of 55
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR View Post

When you go for the next fitting it would be good if you could get photographs showing trousers - fit on waist, vest without the coat please. Braces without fish tail interesting.
Shots of the inside of the coat would be good also to show the finish, way in which pockets are set etc - often neglected when looking at a suit.

I will probably do it when I received the garment and do it back home, will let you guys updated
post #36 of 55
Thread Starter 
The Report:

Sorry for the delay, with the exams and extra adjustment made in the shop, I finally had the chance to take some pictures and comment on the item overall. Generally I am pleased with the outcome, albeit the style is something that I need to adjust for and get used to.

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The trousers' fit is top notch, the waistband is canvassed, feels light and thin which some may prefer if they wear belts

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For the waistcoat, I would have prefer a looser fit but I could imagine that is GB's style. Great construction, fully canvassed, handmade buttonholes.

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These are they best pictures my friend had captured, very form fitted, high armholes, however I would have preferred a more open quarter, wider lapels and wider sleeves to give a better drape.

Details of the item:
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The GB experience had been excellent, if one is looking for a military vibe cut, that is definitely a good choice at a relatively low price point. However, this is definitely not the 'soft tailoring' which the forum favours, I personally would prefer a more drapy product with more aggressive cut, however I think their shoulder roping is top notch, price is clearly competitive, good service, I would highly recommend to the structured lovers.
post #37 of 55
Very nice. I think it would look better a bit fuller in the chest and more length and maybe a tad bit more front balance. I personally think trousers that were a bit fuller would drape nicer. Also, you said you want more open quarters? It is a DB jacket... I also personally don't like the vest style at all.
post #38 of 55
Thanks for the report and pics. It seems to me like the vest is superfluous. I was under the impression that you pretty much never wear a waistcoat with a DB, and in fact part of the point of the DB was to eliminate the need for a waistcoat. I agree with pB on potential tweaks to the jacket - also I think you might benefit from having the buttons being closer together horizontally.
post #39 of 55
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Very nice. I think it would look better a bit fuller in the chest and more length. I personally think trousers that were a bit fuller would drape nicer. Also, you said you want more open quarters? It is a DB jacket... I also personally don't like the vest style at all.

Thanks for the comment, I would like more drape on the chest, that for sure. For a DB jacket, this is perhaps the most closed quarter you could get, indeed to could get more open quarter, like Lino's DB fit.

I would have thought the waistcoat could be better overall, especially with the fit. I specific the design because I do use the pockets for my money and cards.

I think for the first bespoke DB, that is not bad.
post #40 of 55
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Thanks for the report and pics. It seems to me like the vest is superfluous. I was under the impression that you pretty much never wear a waistcoat with a DB, and in fact part of the point of the DB was to eliminate the need for a waistcoat. I agree with pB on potential tweaks to the jacket - also I think you might benefit from having the buttons being closer together horizontally.

For me, waistcoat is a must, so no one could see my braces.

I thought the buttons are close enough, it will be rather 'trendy' if I moved it closer.
post #41 of 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

For me, waistcoat is a must, so no one could see my braces.
I thought the buttons are close enough, it will be rather 'trendy' if I moved it closer.

But since you're keeping the jacket buttoned at all times, no one will see your braces anyway....
post #42 of 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

But since you're keeping the jacket buttoned at all times, no one will see your braces anyway....

This.

Also, nobody knows I wear braces and I even unbutton my single breasted jackets while seated.
post #43 of 55
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

But since you're keeping the jacket buttoned at all times, no one will see your braces anyway....

You have a point, but you know it is just a subjective thing, I just like the idea of waistcoat for the extra pockets, seems to be more in the 'british' side.
post #44 of 55
Congratulations, you achieved an excellent suit.

A few thoughts:

The coat is a good example of a more military style as you say and the shoulders, high arm holes and back are very good. The only concern that I would have is that perhaps the button point is slightly too high for you and the front/rear balance is not quite right which makes the front look a tad short. Nothing to be concerned at but food for thought in your next commission. Sleeve length is good. Were you offered a satin lining - I find them more comfortable to wear and if not it might be worth trying one next time. Lear, Brown and Dunsford offer a number in the T3xx range which I like. Are the inside pockets placed high - one cannot tell without a full inside view.

The trousers are especially good and the rise, fit through thigh and legs and leg length are really excellent. It is a great pity that the fish tail back was omitted as you lamented earlier as that would have benefited fit at the rear and been a shade cleaner but that trait is not serious: I do find a gentle fishtail back makes trousers more comfortable to wear. I do not normally like men's trousers without back pockets but this pair because of their fit these do look fine. It is very unusual for someone from Hong Kong not to have two back pockets - and use them in my experience, what made you drop them? The fob/watch pocket is also very neatly done, a very fine welt allows it to merge discretely into the waist band. I find this a useful addition and always have one - why did you choose beneath the waist band rather than one at the top in a 'split' waist band? I would be interested in your thoughts on this detail.

The waist coat is interesting; I would agree with you that it is a little tight and that there is some pulling at the front although with the fine coat that is not an issue. I do agree with you about the waist coat and covering braces and so no problems with a DB suit in my view, a good choice. I do not personally like the style with lapels (pure personal and not a criticism), I prefer a cleaner cut but you point about the pockets is well made. Have you ever thought about having extra ticket pockets in the coat - I have four, two either side in addition to breast pockets and that is a useful alternative to a wast coat. Clearly you have thought about the practicality of a a suit for you and that is a key thing to get from bespoke.

Many thanks for taking the time to publish these photographs, you have an excellent suit, congratulations. I look forward to seeing your next commission after you have had some experience of this one, that should be night perfect - second commissions always do improve in the minor detail based upon experience.
post #45 of 55
IMHO something went wrong with the vest, looks tight and unbalanced
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