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My second bespoke suit - Graham Browne review and beyond (add Base Fitting + Second Fitting) - Page 2

post #16 of 55
Thread Starter 
Also I will takes some shots on my altered M&S fully canvassed suit, to show people how good M&S stuff could be

p.s. I just realized Kent Wang starts his suit offers, have you check it out yet?
post #17 of 55
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingMonkey View Post

This all looks excellent - I will be visiting Graham Browne in a couple of weeks to get my Dashing Tweeds number started... nice to see some DT pieces in the window!

Russell told me each batch is rather limited, each cloth design should supply 5-6 suits maximum

Not sure whether this is only a salesman technique, but have fun on your commission
post #18 of 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post


Russell told me each batch is rather limited, each cloth design should supply 5-6 suits maximum
Not sure whether this is only a salesman technique, but have fun on your commission


I already have my own fabric! And thanks, I will enjoy it...

 

post #19 of 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

I pack those shirt, tie and shoes in my backpack, so it may not be the freshest thing
How come no love on the shirts? I can understand you might hate the tie combination because I just grab the tie without any thoughts to the fitting

The shirts are a bit loud. But anyway, the main point is this is an awesome thread! Thanks so much for posting all those pictures/descriptions. The suit looks like it's going to be very bad ass.
post #20 of 55
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGrotius View Post

The shirts are a bit loud. But anyway, the main point is this is an awesome thread! Thanks so much for posting all those pictures/descriptions. The suit looks like it's going to be very bad ass.

Thanks, I thought it is quiet nice to have this as a review distinct form the permanent style version, although his one is going to be inherently more profession

The suit does entails bad ass-ness, even more bad ass as I want to use this for my placement back at home :-) (p.s. got the offer already)

The main concern is the lapel shape, I don't mind Russell to make a peak belly as this seems to be the house style, and not as high as the modern ones. I ask him to raise the lapel from 3 inches to 2.5 inches, 3.75 inches width... it should look respectable with a peaked lapel waistcoat inside
post #21 of 55
thanks a lot for posting this. i've been considering GB for a while now that kilgour prices have gone through the roof. Seems good so far. I look forward to seeing the final result.
post #22 of 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingMonkey View Post

This all looks excellent - I will be visiting Graham Browne in a couple of weeks to get my Dashing Tweeds number started... nice to see some DT pieces in the window!

I had Graham Browne make me a Dashing Tweeds suit for my wedding about a year and a half ago. Cost a fair bit but certainly don't regret it.

Which tweed are you going for?

I was going to say "I'd upload a picture but I don't have any" but it seems I've had the forethought to use one as my avatar.

[edit]

Just a note that the trousers are bunching up because I'm wearing a pair of wellies (2 sizes too small) because of the three feet of snow I'm standing in)
post #23 of 55
Thread Starter 
Sorry for the late Update. I had been unwell for a while and still huge amount of work to do.

The original plan had been postponed, I went to the fitting at 5th of April, 2 days later so they can have more time to finish my bespoke order, my alternation was already done but I prefer to save a train ticket. The second time fitting was very pleasing, albeit with the quais -huntman DB shape was not expected, at least I knew I won't be able to get such shape back at home. Perhaps this is the first time I have 100% wool fabric as a suiting fabric, it was not as smooth as I imagine when examining from the cloth book, the waistband is canvassed but I would like to have a bit more stuffing, it feel very thin. And he forgot to make it in fishtail when I told him on the basted fitting, make sure next time he put in on your order form.....

In terms of the waistcoat, I didn't put a picture on is because it was literally in prefect shape already, no adjustment is made for the waistcoat, assume the lapel will be put on once for the next final pickup. For the jacket, Russell only slim the waist for a little bit, reduce chest drape in micro measurements, and lengthen the sleeves. The rope shoulder will show up better for the next fitting.

Overall, I think Russell did a great job, the fit is indefeasible, garment has a lot of handwork expect the sewing of floating canvass together. Styling is quasi huntman with the soft drape of A&S, a very weird combination. I understand their reluctance to cut something dandy for their first customer order, but I am pretty sure I will visit again and order a more FU piece, delay is mild. Overall very good alternative to HK if you are looking for a 'British suit', similar priced

I was not well when I did the fitting so ignore my emotionless face, feel free to rip apart my comments and fit

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Flickr 上 CHA-KDSC02686
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Flickr 上 CHA-KDSC02688
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Flickr 上 CHA-KDSC02690
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Flickr 上 CHA-KDSC02692
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Flickr 上 CHA-KDSC02691

Next and hopefully final fitting and pick up day - 19th April.
Edited by add911_11 - 4/8/12 at 3:03am
post #24 of 55

I prefer a fuller lapel with more presence on a peaked DB, but different strokes I guess. Those sleeves definitely need more length though.

post #25 of 55
It is extremely irritating that the fish tail back was omitted - how high are the trousers cut without it? Was any excuse offered?

It is looking generally good although I must agree that the sleeves are far too short: I hope that was spotted as you cannot accept it in that condition. I feel that the lapels are 'right' for you - any wider would be disproportionate, the coat generally is good apart from the sleeves.

One thought though - the coat is quite well fitting through the body so do you intended to use the inner pockets? You have no back pockets in the trousers so I do wonder if using the inside pockets will create dreadful bulges even with a slim wallet etc. How many inside pockets have you had? Even if you only have one - that should be allowed for in the cut, I fear that it is not.
post #26 of 55
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lysandar View Post

I prefer a fuller lapel with more presence on a peaked DB, but different strokes I guess. Those sleeves definitely need more length though.

This lapel is ok for me, perhaps I am just not used to the conservative shape, but the more I look at the picture the more I accepted it, it is very understated and elegant, Perfect for any environment without being too loud, I had a few lord TF suit anyway so that is a good addition

Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR View Post

It is extremely irritating that the fish tail back was omitted - how high are the trousers cut without it? Was any excuse offered?
It is looking generally good although I must agree that the sleeves are far too short: I hope that was spotted as you cannot accept it in that condition. I feel that the lapels are 'right' for you - any wider would be disproportionate, the coat generally is good apart from the sleeves.
One thought though - the coat is quite well fitting through the body so do you intended to use the inner pockets? You have no back pockets in the trousers so I do wonder if using the inside pockets will create dreadful bulges even with a slim wallet etc. How many inside pockets have you had? Even if you only have one - that should be allowed for in the cut, I fear that it is not.

The trouser is cut high waisted, just on my belly button, I do like my trouser high as this is more comfortable in the hot weather, unlike most who will prefer a good half inch below it. there is no right or wrong lapel shape, I personally preferred it nice and big, but this is a good additional to my non conservative collection.

I rarely use any breast pockets, I always carry a portfolio bag or small briefcase with me, so I put everything except my tiny nokia phone into my pocket, the stuff I put inside will be a white cotton PS for wiping sweat, and my oyster or any bus ticket only. I rarely bring large amount of money, usually someone will pay for the lunch and stuff.

The trouser are for some coins (frankly only in UK because HK's conner shops are paid with HK oyster card these days, and any transportation except taxi) and the little phone. There are 3 pockets inside the jacket, my seperate credit cards and oyster and a hanky. I am try to smoke less so inability to put a cig box inside is great idea.

And really the coat is not skin tight, Russell only is doing Micro adjustment for it. Sleeves is spotted by both of us, but I can't blame him because the last shirt I worn to the fitting, so that will be fixed as well. I should also have insisted Russell to put 'fishtail' on my order sheet before I left the shop last time after the basted fitting, it is frustrated for my next item to have one
Edited by add911_11 - 4/8/12 at 5:24am
post #27 of 55
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

This lapel is ok for me, perhaps I am just not used to the conservative shape, but the more I look at the picture the more I accepted it, it is very understated and elegant, Perfect for any environment without being too loud, I had a few lord TF suit anyway so that is a good addition
The trouser is cut high waisted, just on my belly button, I do like my trouser high as this is more comfortable in the hot weather, unlike most who will prefer a good half inch below it. there is no right or wrong lapel shape, I personally preferred it nice and big, but this is a good additional to my non conservative collection.
I rarely use any breast pockets, I always carry a portfolio bag or small briefcase with me, so I put everything except my tiny nokia phone into my pocket, the stuff I put inside will be a white cotton PS for wiping sweat, and my oyster or any bus ticket only. I rarely bring large amount of money, usually someone will pay for the lunch and stuff.
The trouser are for some coins (frankly only in UK because HK's conner shops are paid with HK oyster card these days, and any transportation except taxi) and the little phone. There are 3 pockets inside the jacket, my seperate credit cards and oyster and a hanky. I am try to smoke less so inability to put a cig box inside is great idea.
And really the coat is not skin tight, Russell only is doing Micro adjustment for it. Sleeves is spotted by both of us, but I can't blame him because the last shirt I worn to the fitting, so that will be fixed as well. I should also have insisted Russell to put 'fishtail' on my order sheet before I left the shop last time after the basted fitting, it is frustrated for my next item to have one

Double post delete pls Admin
post #28 of 55

At least with the sleeves resolved you should get a nice end product. Kudos for sharing the fit pics, very informative!

post #29 of 55
Do you Like where the lapels cross? It seems very high and shows very little tie and shirt. There are different reasons for this, one is the buttoning point is very high. If this is what you want then ignore my comment.
post #30 of 55
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Do you Like where the lapels cross? It seems very high and shows very little tie and shirt. There are different reasons for this, one is the buttoning point is very high. If this is what you want then ignore my comment.

..... I thought the buttoning position is in natural waist, that should not be too high is it?

In fact, I think the reason of this is there are good amount of fabric to be warped across the chest, look wise, it is ok, this is the first time I had a DB in this cut, I think it is more 'vintage' in the sense

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Flickr 上 CHA-Ktumblr_m0bektF3DG1rq2sqfo1_500 拷貝

Looking vaguely something like this will make me happy, clearly not your normal DB these days, I have a feeling that is the house cut for DB.
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