Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley
Really? It seems that the Macclesfield prints he gets are the same as those shown at Marinella, Drake's and Hober. I always assumed there was a big central supplier of those silks somewhere in the UK.
Roughly speaking you are correct.
Macclesfields are printed very nicely on twill silk and wool challis by David Evans/Adamley in Macclesfield.
Names are something that Europeans are more particular about than Americans. The printers in Macclesfield consider that which is printed in Macclesfield to be a Macclesfield.
I understand that some people have different thoughts but I am sensitive to people who earn their living printing silks and follow their thoughts - as I work with them and am concerned about their families.
The matter becomes even more complicated when you consider that some of the Macclesfield archives have been licensed to Italian printers. So what do we call Macclesfield style patterns that are printed in say Como? As a point of reference - only - champagne style wines in Napa? Note, I am not making a personal comment only raising questions.
As for limited editions of 4 prints this is in most cases a sartorial myth in that the cost to produce the screens and setup for printing is probably higher than the price of 4 ties.
Others in this thread compare various makers - some random thoughts;
Most tie makers have high markups and make a nice profit.
With only a few exceptions most tie makers do not make ties slowly and even fewer make custom/made bespoke ties. The main difference in the luxury ready made
tie market is the designs. The silks are almost all beautiful and the sewing pretty good.
Cappelli has a nice classic sense of design which I love - he offers made to measure ties as does Drakes and a few others which is also very nice. His new website is clear and although not complete looks easy to use. I think if he has the design that you like and price is not an issue you should order from him without hesitation.
If you order from one of the few bespoke makers left you need to allow more time and plan on more interaction to get just what you want. Most of the time the big names will charge more as is normal - but if you travel around Italy you will be able to find small tie makers whom if you have time and the communication skills you can order ties from at prices lower than the famous makers. Prices not to far off from our prices. We are able to charge a low price because we are very organized and have been making clothes for 50 years as well as weaving silk for longer - and we have a very low
profit margin because we love what we do."None of these companies uses a single source for silk. Also, even from one supplier the fabric can be different from lot to lot. These guys are capable of weaving at different weights, twill sizes, etc. Most of my Cappellis are made from tight twill that resembles Marinella silk and for all I know it is from the same supplier. It's also possible that one maker specifies a different finish on the silk than another."Manton,
In general you are correct but the trend is away
from printers weaving their own fabrics. In the past printers like Adamley/David Evans wove their own twill silk in "sheds" outside but typically do not do so anymore.
Weights such as 36, 40 and 50 oz are old terms that don't mean what they sound like. Instead they are more likely to be a weight over 10 yards of fabric. Different finishes are available which effect the drape and texture.
Actually, the finishes are perhaps more important than designs in what makes the tie makers discussed in this thread different but that would be for a different thread and time...
Originally Posted by davesmith
............. This isn't meant to be serious right? Whats so special about Panta, Vanda and even Hober for that matter... Every brand has their unique qualities. What's mind blowing to me is how Brioni, Charvet and many others charge $180++ for a tie when Hober charges a ridiculous $80 (A Tommy Hilfiger or RL Green Label tie in Macy's is $60!!). This tells me that there must be something about these brands that pulls the customers in.
The big brands as you I am sure you know - have simply built their brand based on many things over the years and they are worth it in the sense that people are willing to pay the price.
As for whats special about our ties - we simply put more time and effort into the small details of custom tie making as it was done by small makers many years ago. I have never seen or heard of any current tie makers at any price point which equal what we do.
I have never seen a Vanda tie but they seem to have a very nice operation in that they make their ties themselves - which is very special in this day and age - which along with their personal touch makes them better than Charvet to me. Panta again has a wonderful personal touch and Ed has a great selection of textured fabrics which he has obviously spent a lot of time finding/designing - he is better than Brioni to me.
Originally Posted by quar
Main difference would surely be the selection of silks.
The Vanda stuff is sewn very well. Sewn better than the multitude of Drakes London ties I own for sure.
The best sewing I have seen is surely by Sam Hober.
Vanda is fine... ...so long as you like 1 of the 6 ties they make. That's if you're able to buy it quickly before it runs out of stock.
In general smaller makers will have better sewing as they will tend to put more time into the small details - I do not know the Vanda makers but I would guess that they are working very hard to produce "value added" ties...
Thank you for your kind words about our sewing - it reminds me of a story about a gentlemen from Ireland who ordered ties a few years ago. He emailed me commenting about our one piece silk ties - but his tie was not from one piece of silk - it was sewn very carefully so that you really needed to look carefully to see any sewing at all.