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The Neapolitan soft shoulder, short jacket. Will it last?

post #1 of 19
2/21/12 at 4:40pm
Thread Starter 
It seems to me that the Neapolitan look is nearly everywhere in men's clothing/fashion. I know it is the classic Neopolitan look but I wonder whether it will remain a standard in the US. Until recently, I thought the Saville row look (in general: shaped waist, defined shoulder, traditional proportions) was the high standard. Is it just that Neoploitan tailoring is soft and more comfortable to wear? Help me with this...
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post #2 of 19
2/22/12 at 7:18am

I too wonder about the same thing.

My take is if you have big shoulders the neapolitan look goes well for you.

If you don't have big shoulders, a roman or saviller row cut would look better.

 

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post #3 of 19
2/22/12 at 7:35am
I actually prefer Neapolitan style more recently, it is more playful, yet it is harder to get it right
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post #4 of 19
2/22/12 at 8:28am
The neapolitan jacket is classic for that interpretation of a men's suit. It's the same as they have made for years. That it is fashionable at the moment will change but if the look is right for you, you won't have to change. The shorter length seems to be a current version. Watching the O'Mast video, none of the tailors wore decidedly short jackets, some seemed long actually.
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post #5 of 19
2/22/12 at 8:32am
Neapolitan jackets are light and comfy compared to SR. Americans like light and comfy.

Also soft, shorter jackets are not necessarily Neapolitan.
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post #6 of 19
2/22/12 at 8:33am
It is an inherently more casual look. For the generation of men now who enjoy wearing suits but don't have to for business, it has a nice attitude. I'm still unsure whether it's fully appropriate for a conservative business setting.
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post #7 of 19
2/22/12 at 9:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

It is an inherently more casual look. For the generation of men now who enjoy wearing suits but don't have to for business, it has a nice attitude. I'm still unsure whether it's fully appropriate for a conservative business setting.

well said. I agree completely.
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post #8 of 19
2/22/12 at 9:12am



 

Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

It is an inherently more casual look. For the generation of men now who enjoy wearing suits but don't have to for business, it has a nice attitude. I'm still unsure whether it's fully appropriate for a conservative business setting.


I would have to agree. I love all my NSM coats, but have yet to order anything business-y from Mina. I don't think the Neapolitan style lends itself well for business, and I still revert to my London tailors for suits.

 

That being said, I have a few lengths of heavyweight tweed and Moonbeam, and there is no way these would go anywhere but Naples!
 

 

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post #9 of 19
2/22/12 at 9:16am
I am sitting right now on Corporate Park Ave, meet twice with the CEO already today in fact, and will see him again shortly, and I am wearing a Neapolitan suit and no one even blinks. The idea that they are not CBD is false. I suppose one cut in a very extreme way might not be but tailors like Solito, Rubinacci, Panico etc. cut suits that can easily be worn in a business setting anywhere.

BTW, my one Mina is "racier" than Solito but I still wear it to work and, again, no one blinks.
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post #10 of 19
2/22/12 at 9:19am
short answer no

long answer always yes
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post #11 of 19
2/22/12 at 9:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by RingTail View Post

I too wonder about the same thing.

My take is if you have big shoulders the neapolitan look goes well for you.

If you don't have big shoulders, a roman or saviller row cut would look better.

 

I'm small and don't have wide shoulders which is why I enjoy soft, Neapolitan styles. I feel like a structured shoulder is insincere on me and ultimately makes me feel uncomfortable.
 

 

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post #12 of 19
2/22/12 at 9:36am
I have to agree with Manton. If using a classic business cloth, few outside of these forums will even notice what a "Neapolitan" suit looks like. They will simply notice that it fits, and that it is a suit.
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post #13 of 19
2/22/12 at 9:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by EMartNJ View Post

 

I'm small and don't have wide shoulders which is why I enjoy soft, Neapolitan styles. I feel like a structured shoulder is insincere on me and ultimately makes me feel uncomfortable.
 

 

 

My shoulders are 17.5" wide and on the contrary I feel more comfortable in a well fitted jacket with a proportionally padded shoulder. Even for casual jackets my favorite one is a safari/military style jacket.

HB_Colbit.jpg
 

 

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post #14 of 19
2/22/12 at 9:45am
Does anyone REALLY care about what your suit shoulder looks like (unless it's not some hideous Pagoda style)? I mean, would someone on your board of directors (whoever you may be) really think "my sweet lord, is he wearing Neapolitan shoulders today? Fire him."

No. This is fantasy.
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post #15 of 19
2/22/12 at 9:53am


Quote:

Originally Posted by Manton View Post

I am sitting right now on Corporate Park Ave, meet twice with the CEO already today in fact, and will see him again shortly, and I am wearing a Neapolitan suit and no one even blinks. The idea that they are not CBD is false. I suppose one cut in a very extreme way might not be but tailors like Solito, Rubinacci, Panico etc. cut suits that can easily be worn in a business setting anywhere.
BTW, my one Mina is "racier" than Solito but I still wear it to work and, again, no one blinks.

 

Its a fair point, but for obessive people like us its less about how others perceive our suits. To my eye, the cut of my Mina's is decidedly racier / more casual than my London / NY suits, and I much prefer those for business. I should point out that I have very sloping shoulders, and the minimal shoulder construction of the Mina coats really highlights the slouchy, cardigan-like look of the garment.

 

I don't doubt that others hardly, if ever, notice the difference.

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