***The Official Dior Homme Thread*** - Page 11

I guess that's the difference for me. I'm not buying Dior now, but I don't really lust over the Hedi pieces either. I like them, and I can definitely appreciate how menswear changed under Hedi's influence (how could you not? if you've bought a pair of jeans in the last five years you probably owe a thanks to Hedi for how they look), but it's not the sort of stuff I lust over. I do like the cultural reference points he draws on—like Richard Hell, The Ramones, punk in general—but it's not how I dress myself. That said, if I knew anything about fashion when I was 17, Hedi probably would've been my favorite designer working. Maybe I just missed the boat.

I don't have the build for DH, so I've never really lusted after his more typical super-slim stuff, but there's so many gems in those collections that break out from that (gold boots, etc) that I'd love to own, and I still really like loose-fitting 19cms.  Maybe you can't exactly attribute the blazer + tshirt + carrot fit jeans thing directly to him but it's still one of my favorite looks.

i really like the soundtrack it's one of my favorite german songs

You make a good point. The only DH pieces I own are denim and the first DH collection I was around for was ss09 (awful). Like other KVA fans, I prioritize purchasing KVA (the label) products over DH ones, simply because I like the look more and think they work better with my body type. It's been rare that DH under KVA out-shined KVA's own line, but I think FW12 is a perfect example.

I too am glad that the slim rocker look is dead, but I don't agree with those saying current DH is "watered down", whatever that means. A new designer will naturally bring a new look to a brand--just because KVA designs are less severe (maybe even less directional) than Slimane ones doesn't mean his collections have less "substance". From what I can see, KVA's collections (both for DH and his own label) are some of the most cohesive to be released every season. As an example, I don't think anyone expects Raf to incorporate the flair and over-the-top styling which Galliano was known for in his Dior--I expect the women's line to take on Raf's simplified approach. You wouldn't call that "watered down" right? It would just be natural brand evolution. Feel free to enlighten me if my reasoning here is incorrect or if I've misunderstood something.

I don't agree with most of what you said really, but you've got to work under the design umbrella of the house when you're working for one of those big French labels.

The people running these labels now don't really care about any kind of specific look though. They just concern themselves with profits and making sure they maintain a luxury brand image. Dior, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Balmain, etc. made clothes completely different from the designers running their namesake houses today. The evidence is even there for Raf's work at Jil Sander - it's quite different from Jil's aesthetic.

That 'luxury brand image' is important though.  You can't just do whatever you want when designing for one of those big houses; there has to be continuity.  That's why Balenciaga is still modernist 60 years later, Lanvin still keeps the focus on fabrics, etc.

Raf gave JS his own touch, that's for sure, but you'd be mistaken if you're saying it was a total departure. He did a pretty good job of pulling from the JS past, and from my understanding, this was one of the attributes Dior liked.

anyone know if the LA dior homme store has the raw mij 19cm in selvedge? i know they carry the normal raw mij 19cm in blue and black but hoping to find a pair in selvedge

From what I've read, the 19cm cut means a 19cm leg opening based on a standard size 32 waist. For every drop in size, remove 0.5 cm from the leg opening.

Can anyone comment on the maximum size that DH denim looks good? I know they make it large, but to get the actual effect it seems like you've got to be wearing a pair with a sub-32 waist.

I'm off to NYC next week, and thinking of picking up some of the raws. Do they sell both the MII and MIJ at the store? Is there a difference in the price, or a big reason to get one over the other? MII = Nostalgy, MIJ = Brut.

I have many 19cm jeans (waxed, and other) and will keep and wear them until something better comes along.

^ I owned both pairs and other raw denims, but I don't think dior quality is superior to other brands,
just cut and fabric.

when do they drop?