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First MTM suit, looking for advice on fabric

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
Hello,

I am having my first MTM suit made. It will probably be a Mabro. Other options are Belvest and Corneliani but historically I have preferred the fit and style from Mabro over the others. Pricing is also slightly more attractive, but that is less of a concern.

I am fairly certain about the style. It will be a classic two button solid worsted navy with a slim cut and as soft of a shoulder as I can manage.

What I am looking for advice on is the choice of fabric. Is there anything else too think about aside from the fact that I want a solid worsted navy? I understand that it is not advisable to go beying 120 due to concerns over durability. Are there different weaves etc? Any advice from exerienced members?
post #2 of 17
Thread Starter 
I do not wear suits in my day to day life. I get away with a jacket, trousers and a tie. This suit is intended for more formal gatherings (rare in my case), formal business meetings and any future job interviews. I want to look conservative and classy but not stuffy or stiff.
post #3 of 17
You know pretty much everything you need, when you have the appointment make sure you ask him the fabric brands.

Also you might want to add a extra waistcoat because you will essentially two outfits

NICE
post #4 of 17
Thread Starter 
I don´t think I would ever wear a waistcoat, but I will consider it.

What brands am I supposed to be on the lookout for? I am completely ignorant. However, my guess is that a tailor like Mabro would only supply good options.
post #5 of 17
In terms of fabric, follow the brands which SF member uses, there is plenty suggestion in the cloth thread.

Just ask the tailor, he will be able to advise on it, do not worry too much

Top Drawer:
Holland and Sherry
Scabal
Zenga 15 mil 15 or 17 mil 17
LP 'Wish' s170

Good:
JJ minnis
JOHN G. HARDY
LP 4 season
Harrison

Average:
VBC

In terms of waistcoat, perhaps I am just too british, I find showing shirts are vulgar, Unless the weather is too hot I 9/10 times wears a waistcoat, even with DB. Probably just a background and cultural thing
post #6 of 17

Did you sort this out? Wished to know what you had thought of meeting with Mabro? Seemed like you did know what you wanted and should be easy to convey to the tailor. 

 

Nothing wrong with 120's if you want trike and durable but will probably show wrinkles and sut imperfections more then say 100's. Fabric is always pretty good and are available to the world so rare to get bad stuff unless off the rack nowadays. 

 

For future advice check my blog out. Hope it helps.

 

http://gentlemansgent.blogspot.com/

post #7 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

In terms of fabric, follow the brands which SF member uses, there is plenty suggestion in the cloth thread.
Just ask the tailor, he will be able to advise on it, do not worry too much
Top Drawer:
Holland and Sherry
Scabal
Zenga 15 mil 15 or 17 mil 17
LP 'Wish' s170
Good:
JJ minnis
JOHN G. HARDY
LP 4 season
Harrison
Average:
VBC
In terms of waistcoat, perhaps I am just too british, I find showing shirts are vulgar, Unless the weather is too hot I 9/10 times wears a waistcoat, even with DB. Probably just a background and cultural thing

No Dormeuil? Come on!
post #8 of 17
You can go to the Scabal website, register and look at their fabric selection. Not the same as looking at the real fabrics, but a start.

http://www.scabal.us/fabrics_our_catalogue_B.php
post #9 of 17
I have 3.5 meters of old stock new H.Lesser in navy nailhead if your interested smile.gif
post #10 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

In terms of fabric, follow the brands which SF member uses, there is plenty suggestion in the cloth thread.
Just ask the tailor, he will be able to advise on it, do not worry too much
Top Drawer:
Holland and Sherry
Scabal
Zenga 15 mil 15 or 17 mil 17
LP 'Wish' s170
Good:
JJ minnis
JOHN G. HARDY
LP 4 season
Harrison
Average:
VBC
In terms of waistcoat, perhaps I am just too british, I find showing shirts are vulgar, Unless the weather is too hot I 9/10 times wears a waistcoat, even with DB. Probably just a background and cultural thing

What about H lesser? This list is not complete.
post #11 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by terrorsquad View Post

I have 3.5 meters of old stock new H.Lesser in navy nailhead if your interested smile.gif

Surely 4 metres for a suit?
post #12 of 17
What about Dugdale Bros?
post #13 of 17
The list is not conclusive, sorry guys but feel free to add it on
post #14 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

No Dormeuil? Come on!

They have quiet a range of fabric, but I would rank them slightly higher than 'Good'

I am probably going to be biased
post #15 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tailor Dan View Post

Did you sort this out? Wished to know what you had thought of meeting with Mabro? Seemed like you did know what you wanted and should be easy to convey to the tailor. 

Nothing wrong with 120's if you want trike and durable but will probably show wrinkles and sut imperfections more then say 100's. Fabric is always pretty good and are available to the world so rare to get bad stuff unless off the rack nowadays. 

For future advice check my blog out. Hope it helps.

http://gentlemansgent.blogspot.com/

There were some problems with updating Mabro´s fabric selection in the store, but i was just there. I had a very difficult time settling on a shade of blue. It seems to me that fabrics appear lighter in tone when they are in the form of a suit, as opposed to a fabric swatch. Is this correct? One Guabello fabric looked absolutely perfect as a swatch, but when they showed me a suit in similar tone it appeared much too light for the rather formal uses I envision.

Thank you for the link. I will read with great interest.
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