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difference between collars?

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
what is the difference between spread collars and point collars and all the others? is there like a table someone can show me or something like that? what are the advantages and disadvantages between them? just want to expand my knowledge. thanks
post #2 of 14
A spread or cut-away collar has a wide "throat" when fully buttoned up, which allows for the use of a thick, bulky knot like the Windsor.

A point has a narrower "throat", and is suited for smaller knots like the four-in-hand.

However, I prefer what is known as a "semi-spread", where the throat width is versatile enough to allow for knots of various sizes. The width falls somewhere in between a point and spread collar.

For reference, here's a spread collar:


while here's a semi-spread collar:
post #3 of 14
Tnanks for providing the image, Flame. I had originally thought the spread collar was the turn-down collar with rounded corners.

Now I can understand why Manton prefers a spread collar for his bow tie.

But I'm still wondering whether a stiff detachable Mandarin-type standup collar will look even more formal than a stiff detachable wing collar for the cutaway tailcoat of the Morning Dress.

If I read Manton correctly, the color of the shirt for Morning Dress should be very lightly coloured, not white. But shouldn't the collar itself be white?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flame
A spread or cut-away collar has a wide "throat" when fully buttoned up, which allows for the use of a thick, bulky knot like the Windsor.

...<snip>

For reference, here's a spread collar:


...<snip>...
post #4 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by ethirtynine
what is the difference between spread collars and point collars and all the others? is there like a table someone can show me or something like that? what are the advantages and disadvantages between them? just want to expand my knowledge. thanks


Here's a good table

http://mytailor.com/Shirts.aspx

Or here (click on each of the small pictures to enlarge)

http://www.individualizedshirts.com/collars.asp
post #5 of 14
Thread Starter 
thanks guys, very helpful
post #6 of 14
(Lewis Black like rant) And then we have the Italian spread the english spread the Windsor spread the shark fin and I can't take it.
What's the difference between English Italian and just a spread?
post #7 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by jml90
What's the difference between English Italian and just a spread?

(hmm... marmalade... tomato paste... and, mm, peanut butter)

Seems to be mostly just a matter of taste.
post #8 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tampan
(hmm... marmalade... tomato paste... and, mm, peanut butter)

Seems to be mostly just a matter of taste.
Then, that would mean there is a difference but, what is it?
post #9 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by jml90
Then, that would mean there is a difference but, what is it?
I find the specifics of "English spread" and "Italian spread" tend to differ between manufacturers - rather than being actual categories, they're terms used when they want to suggest that the shirt is traditional/fashionable/exotic/has a feeling of heritage, etc.

That said, "English spread" suggests to me the smaller, more cut-away collar favored by, say, Prince Charles, while an Italian spread to me would be less cut-away, more a semi-spread, but larger overall, with longer collar points and a taller collar band.
post #10 of 14
Based on what I have seen over the years, the key difference is that the front edges of the points on an English spread collar are cut dead straight. Italian spread collars have some roll.
post #11 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton
Based on what I have seen over the years, the key difference is that the front edges of the points on an English spread collar are cut dead straight. Italian spread collars have some roll.
I think I get it.

Now Ainsley vs. Semi spread vs. point?
post #12 of 14
Oops, my mistake again. Actually Manton mentioned he prefered a medium spread turn-down collar for his black tie DB dinner jacket.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Happy Stroller
Tnanks for providing the image, Flame. I had originally thought the spread collar was the turn-down collar with rounded corners.

Now I can understand why Manton prefers a spread collar for his bow tie.

But I'm still wondering whether a stiff detachable Mandarin-type standup collar will look even more formal than a stiff detachable wing collar for the cutaway tailcoat of the Morning Dress.

If I read Manton correctly, the color of the shirt for Morning Dress should be very lightly coloured, not white. But shouldn't the collar itself be white?
post #13 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by jml90
Then, that would mean there is a difference but, what is it?


I think it is a matter of taste, but one significant factor is your face. A wide face with a narrow collar will make the face look wider. A narrow face with a wide collar will make the face look narrower.
post #14 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by horton
I think it is a matter of taste, but one significant factor is your face. A wide face with a narrow collar will make the face look wider. A narrow face with a wide collar will make the face look narrower.
You're the first to agree!
Everyone says Narrow face wide collar and vis versa.
Collars are too confusing!
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