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Educate me on lasts, etc..

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
I've become drawn to fine shoes like Trickers, and I'm trying to get a grip on things. i'm learning a lot reading here but I'm stumped when I read about lasts. Where do you guys learn what these (and other shoe construction topics a guy would need to know before ordering) are, what they mean, and how that translates for the casual fan? For example, I wear a US size 12 but have high arches and a lot of shoes give me trouble. I'd never think of buying a high end shoe, either new or pre owned, without understanding what the diferent fit types available mean. Any place you can point me to where I can educate myself so I can understand what this talk of lasts and construction means?
post #2 of 8
More than you'd ever care to read about Tricker's.
http://www.styleforum.net/t/198359/offical-trickers-shoes-and-boots-thread

You can only get so close trying to size via the internet. You're not going to get certainty of sizing.
You can read all you want and probably make an educated guess but it's still going to be bit of a gamble.
post #3 of 8
Thread Starter 
Thanks, yes I've read much of that thread and others regarding other shoe brands, but when I read where guys say things like "It's built on a **** last, but I much prefer the ¥¥¥¥ last" I'm stumped. I have no idea what the differences are, how they translate to fit, how you're suppoed to know what that means.
post #4 of 8
I'm going to give you an oversimplification. Think of the last as the frame, either for a car or for a house, and keep everything else consistent. Shoes all have the same elements: leather, heels, soles; however, the last is what separates the shape.

The way to get to know the difference is really just by trial and error. I cannot attest to Tricker's as I am not a fan of their styling, nor am I of most of the premium English shoemakers.

9 Iron - the best thing is to go to a higher end shoe store, get yourself properly fitted, and measured. The sales associate, if a good one, can make recommendations on last for your foot. You may be a size 12 D, but most often, people are widthed. I was wearing a 12 D for years before getting properly sized to find out that I am a 13 C., Now what does that mean? Pretty much nothing if you don't know the last on which the shoe is constructed, which brings us full circle.

http://sizeadvisors.com/
post #5 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by 9 Iron View Post

Thanks, yes I've read much of that thread and others regarding other shoe brands, but when I read where guys say things like "It's built on a **** last, but I much prefer the ¥¥¥¥ last" I'm stumped. I have no idea what the differences are, how they translate to fit, how you're suppoed to know what that means.

think of a taylor made R11 9 iron vs TP MB 9 iron. same club but different shape.

(work with me here people)
post #6 of 8
Thread Starter 
Thank you guys, I appreciate your efforts. I do understand what a last is, I understand that it is the frame on which the shoe upper is formed around and that the difference in last shape completely determines the shape and fit of the shoe. The problem seems to be (to the uninformed casual shoe buyer) that there is no simple universal descriptor of simple last forms. The Allen Edmonds last description page seems pretty straightforward, though the numbering quickly goes from a simple one digit code to a three digit code with no further descriptions of what those numbers mean. Further, these numbers don't seem to translate at all to other makers, like Trickers. The beauty of thd internet, so much is now available to the average person that was unobtainable just a few years ago, the irony that it can still be such a horribly blind hunt.

I suppose the best I can do is to continue to try on AE shoes, as they are available in several department stores near here (Sacramento area) and try to get a feel for the different lasts. I can then try to garner from the Trickers discussions how their lasts relate to the various AE lasts that fit me well. Unfortunately, having no AE company store near here, and department store shoe salespeople being about as uninformed as I am, I'll just have to slowly piece this thing together.

Thanks for the help, I appreciate it and will continuento try to work in some questions in the appropriate threads.

Jim
post #7 of 8
It can get pretty expensive, especially in the size 12 range, but what I did was just buy shoes online I liked the looks of, tried them on or wore them, then either returned or sold them here. I was able to narrow down which lasts on which brands would suit me best.

I might also add that some makers, Edward Green for instance, have many lasts that are based on one central last but the changes are in the toe area. So theoretically if you fit one of their lasts, you fit them all. For a maker like Allen Edmonds or Alden, since they offer a variety of widths, you may be able to size up, down, in or out on several of their lasts to make the fit work.

No matter how much reading you do there is simply no substitute for trying shoes on.

Hope this helps.
post #8 of 8
Trickers are OK but hardly "fine shoes".
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