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Preparing a try-on for first fitting - Page 3

post #31 of 50
I'm curious, are the heavier reliable-brand irons bigger or just heavier? I can't seem to get a straight answer from the resellers.
post #32 of 50
Despos - When I saw the pics MK posted I was wondering how often you make the welted style side pockets? Is it something that you reccomend to clients, or was it a request? Does it make it easier to achieve a precise fit through the hips than a standard side or slant pocket? Do you have any pictures of those pockets from the inside - I would be interested in knowing what the layout of the pocket bags looks like...?
post #33 of 50
Very nice - thanks for sharing Chris.
post #34 of 50
This is a great thread. Thank you for sharing it.
post #35 of 50
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pebblegrain View Post

Obviously there are at least 3 people working on this. Is one of them you? Could you do this by yourself?

First 5 years in business I did all this myself, started hiring others at that point. You lose the feeling for sewing if you don't sew every day. I would be a little rusty to do all this but I do some sewing on about every suit. I'm a different link in the chain now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by forex View Post

Did this all happen in one day? Great thread, by the way. Keep them coming, Mr. Despos.

This is one day's work, that's why I used times of day for post titles.
post #36 of 50
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by imageWIS View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


263
Cutting and preparing the canvass

I'd love to get this pic in a larger size. smile.gif

To hang in the bathroom?
post #37 of 50
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ataturk View Post

I'm curious, are the heavier reliable-brand irons bigger or just heavier? I can't seem to get a straight answer from the resellers.

I think just heavier. Can you find a spec sheet showing dimensions somewhere?
post #38 of 50
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by inlandisland View Post

Despos - When I saw the pics MK posted I was wondering how often you make the welted style side pockets? Is it something that you reccomend to clients, or was it a request? Does it make it easier to achieve a precise fit through the hips than a standard side or slant pocket? Do you have any pictures of those pockets from the inside - I would be interested in knowing what the layout of the pocket bags looks like...?

Use it it on all trousers with reverse pleats, single or double. It's especially good if you have wide hips. Pocket stays close to the body, no bowing out, doesn't move much and kinda disappears into the front part. Sometimes just looks like the line of a pleat. The position on the trouser front is very natural to where your arm hangs so it's at a natural position to access the front pocket. Since it's cut into the cloth, there is no stress on the side seams. Harder pocket to make but worth the benefits. Pocket bags looks normal , maybe I can snap a pic later today.
post #39 of 50
Great thread Despos ... Thanks for sharing.
post #40 of 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

I think just heavier. Can you find a spec sheet showing dimensions somewhere?

Not with anything more specific than 9x7x5, or whatever it was. But I just noticed that the iron shoe they sell says it fits both the standard and heavy irons. So I think you're right that they have the same footprint at least.

Interesting thing is that the iron and boiler even with the standard sizes are really pushing it on a standard 15-amp circuit. So the heavier iron has the same heating element as the standard one. Of course the extra mass would help it stay hotter in use. Though ironing shirts (that's really all I do with mine), the boiler falls behind before the iron gets cool.

I'm sure the extra weight makes it easier to press suits, though.
post #41 of 50
Chris, you are an excellent teacher. Thanks for the thread.
post #42 of 50

Hi Despos

good thread thanks for putting this out there. you obviously have a thriving business. I am at the stage where I wish to take an apprentice on. I have hesitated as it is a big step, however without one I work long hours. I sell in the upper top end of the market in New Zealand when I can get the price. I have been trained by an ex Savile Row tailor and cutter as a coatmaker. I do this at this stage for the love of my work, however after another 10 years the love may be less if the money is not more. Did you take on apprentices or hired experienced people? i am finding it difficult to make the leap. I hand sew in sleeves, shoulder seams and collars top and bottom and linings, bar tacks etc and this is a standard I wish to maintain. I do not feel I could take the years to train an apprentice, and are just in between being able to pay an experienced person if there are any? suggestions welcome!

I am in my forties and all other tailors, trained by other tailors not trained in institutions are in their seventies and eighties. The bespoke workforce is very small here.

 

With the understanding that all tailors do things differently....

I am always interested in new ways of doing things and have a couple of questions to that extent.

Q The shoulder seam is quite deep. Looks like an inch and a quarter I was taught a 3/8 inlay and lengthen the back balance from the back arm scye keeping an inlay on the front panel for such an alteration.?

I see you cut a false forearm sleeve. Occasionally I get asked for one. What Iron work do you do ie where are you shrinking or stretching the cloth? I use a full sleeve with no under-sleeve pattern made. I lay the top-sleeve on the cloth, picking it up on the diagonal to make the undersleeve. I get the run of the sleeve once it is basted on the coat.I would appreciate anything suggestions here.

In return any tailors out there, I have a wonderful source in Italy for top quality camel hair body canvas in various weights, horse hair, linen collar canvas, cotton wadding etc. Min 25 metre, but the best quality I have found yet.Only 1 person there speaks English and they arrange for this person to be there for any phone calls. Which would suggest they do not sell much into English speaking markets. Opportunity there? I travel to Europe each year on the look out for mills and trims etc.

Thanks for your help Despos

kind regards

Brendon

post #43 of 50

You seem to make very high quality suits. Your craftsmanship is amazing. Where do you purchase your horse hair cloth for creating full canvas suits? I am having a hard time acquiring quality hair cloth that does not shrink. Do you have a certain technique that you follow that may limit or negate shrinking? 

Thank you and keep up the great work!

post #44 of 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by lanhdo View Post

You seem to make very high quality suits. Your craftsmanship is amazing. Where do you purchase your horse hair cloth for creating full canvas suits? I am having a hard time acquiring quality hair cloth that does not shrink. Do you have a certain technique that you follow that may limit or negate shrinking? 
Thank you and keep up the great work!

All hair-cloth should be pre-shrunk before using, because otherwise it will shrink.
post #45 of 50

Sanguis, thank you for the reply. 

 

We have tried to pre-shrink the hair cloth; however, it does still seem to shrink eventually. To shrink we have been soaking the hair cloth in hot water over night and ironing dry the next morning. Do you follow a similar technique?

I think I might not have a high quality hair cloth. Where do you purchase your hair cloth? Is the hair cloth you purchase already pre-shrunk?

 

Thank you!

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