The Andrew Jackson, Handmade Irish Brogues

No, but the punchwork and stitching look very messy, and the longwing has a seam on the medial side (a sign they used smaller hides or scraps).

Peb, I take your point on the seams. But messy punchwork and stitching compared to what? Are you talking about construction or aesthetics? If you mean construction, could you elaborate? I'm genuinely curious.

For aesthetics, I'd note that Robinson's semi-brogue has much finer punching than anything offered by AE.

The punch holes on the toe are either not fully punched or filled with gunk.

The stitch around the curve of the wing is not smooth.

The broguing is unevenly spaced. The smaller 2-punch is not centered between the larger single punches.

Thanks, Peb. I see what you mean about the toe punches; that center one could have been done more deeply. Still trying to find out what's wrong with the stitch around the wing curve. I do see something that might suggest not the tightest stitching of the bottom of the left quarter/tab to the vamp, but I'd imagine that's never easy.

The uneven brogueing/pinking/whatever it's called doesn't bother me too much.

If you can up that by $75 - $100 you can have these. Or these. If you're outside UK/EU they're reduced 20 per cent + shipping ought to put them at £300.00 which is approx. $475.

Sorry m8, I missed the width info on the web page you linked to.

Send Alastair an email and see what he can dig up for you at C&J. The contact info is on the website. You ought to email A Fine Pair of Shoes too; they have a very good selection of Alfred Sargent's.

Is Allen Edmonds beneath your standards?

How about these? They are made by Cheaney and if you use the code HSAB you can get free shoe trees.

 

http://www.herringshoes.co.uk/product-info.php?selectedColourid=1086&brandid=6&catid=43&shoeid=2037&selectedSizeid=0&selectedFitid=0#

I'll tell you what, Pillars, I will let you know! I own the Crockett and Jones Pembroke, but I have been looking at these Robinson shoes online for a while and finally decided to try them out. When I get them in the flesh, I will report back. I can tell you now that the fellow actually asked me to measure my feet after I placed the order and was a pleasure to deal with.

 

If also wear a big size--an E in most US fittings--and I can tell you that the Crockett and Jones Pembroke in their standard E fitting is a good fit because of the roomy 325 last. They also make a Pembroke in the G fitting on the 317 last. Caveat is that Crockett and Jones shoes are very difficult to come by these days. You have to order them all, and it takes months.

 

If you don't mind a tan shoe, I would recommend the Allen-Edmonds MacNeil in Walnut. They run narrow, but I think the 3E sizing would be fine, and Allen-Edmonds may be the easiest fine shoemaker to deal with.

 

A chocolate brown brogue that doesn't have country-style eyelets is hard to find these days, for some reason. Another reason I decided to try the Robinson.

This is an extensive review of the Robinson Andrew Jackson in Peat Calf, as there isn't much written about it.

 

This is a very fine shoe with a very interesting last that can be dressed up or down. The calfskin is of the finest quality, and the workmanship is excellent (not the finest, but excellent). The color is a wonderful milk chocolate brown. For reference, here is how it stacks up to other similar shoes with which I am familiar, based on F fittings unless otherwise stated.

 

***The wingtip on this shoe is joined on the inside arch, which is a way of conserving material (i.e., by using strips left over after cutting). This seemingly minor detail does represent a cost saving measure, but, in my opinion (and in this case) it brings the cost of a very fine shoe down a bit, provided it doesn't bother you. I have not taken this detail into consideration in the comparisons below.

 

Church's Grafton: Inferior to in materials and workmanship. Last is less elongated than Church's 173. Browner brown than Church's Walnut, lighter than Ebony. Shoe is less heavy. Costs much less. A good, less expensive option and less "city."

 

Albert Sargent Regent: Superior to in workmanship and materials. Last is substantially wider than AS 109. Heavier. Costs about the same. A better option but a true brown and not tan

 

Tricker's Bourton: Comparable to in materials. Inferior to in workmanship. Sleeker and dresses up better than last 4444. Costs much less. Lighter. Brown much lighter than Tricker's Espresso. Don't buy or not buy with regard to the Bourton--almost different niches.

 

Alden LWB in brown calf (D fitting): Inferior to in materials. Superior to in workmanship (no sloppy welt joins or off eyestays). Lighter. Last is similar to Barrie in combining country and dress but not an oversized last. Consider buying instead of if shopping for medium brown

 

Allen Edmonds MacNeil (D fitting): Comparable to in workmanship and materials. Very similar in fit to the 7 last, but with blunter toe. About the same in most regards and more expensive, BUT to get this color from AE you have to buy custom and so the cost is almost identical. Consider buying instead of.

 

Crockett and Jones Pembroke: Comparable to in materials (superior to C&J "cavalry calf"). Inferior to in workman ship. Lighter. A bit bigger than the standard C&J E fitting in last 325. A little less expensive. Much less expensive than medium brown custom make. Buy instead of if shopping for true brown. Pembroke probably a better option if you want a tanner brown.

 

I hope this helps.

 

In all, a small operation worthy of your patronage.

Thank you for that comprehensive review. It's good to know that these shoes are of comparable quality to the established Northampton brands. I have been drawn to the Chester A. Arthur shoe by the same company for some time now, this encourages me to maybe just bite the bullet and go for it.

I would give them a try. I didn't mention "presentation" in this comparison, but I think Robinson does a great job in this category. The bags and beautiful (I still don't know how much you have to spend on Alfred Sargent to even get bags!) and the green finish on the soles is very nicely done.

 

I really like these shoes and was pleased to support this small company.