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Summer Linen Suit - Page 2

post #16 of 38
2/2/12 at 6:25pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by TTO View Post

It's a look I've been on the verge of commissioning several times! something along these lines?
526
this all in a light grey, in a heavy linen, maybe with slightly more open fronts, with some gauntlet cuffs!
I say check the W-Bill fabrics, their linen has a sturdy reputation and I seem to recall someone telling me they had some greys.
I think it'll make up very nicely with flapped pockets, maybe self lined fronts and unlined back, you could even get a backless waistcoat if you where very worried about heat, but I'd rather have the option of removing the coat.
Good luck, please update with pics if you do decide to go ahead...it may fuell my own needs!
-TTO

Is the vest coat wrinkled, or pulled too tight?
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post #17 of 38
2/2/12 at 6:26pm
I love linen suits.

I would suggest that you skip the waist coat and go with a DB instead. It will look fashionable for many years.

I would recommend besom or patch pockets. I find linen flap pockets to be annoying because of the wrinkles.

Cream is nice but I think a deep tan or a brown is quit elegant>

525
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post #18 of 38
2/2/12 at 6:59pm
The purpose of "heavy" linen escapes me.
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post #19 of 38
2/2/12 at 7:18pm
Z
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big A View Post

The purpose of "heavy" linen escapes me.

I had a beautiful heavy Irish linen jacket from Luciano Barbera. I loved it but it was simply too heavy to enjoy in the warm summer months. Better to have something that is light and airy.
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post #20 of 38
2/2/12 at 7:29pm
i-RtRzDvn-X2.jpg

Cream 14oz W. Bill Irish linen. Completely fine (for me) in the most humid Boston summer weather.
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post #21 of 38
2/2/12 at 7:30pm
lizard
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post #22 of 38
2/2/12 at 7:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

lizard

I have a mammalian part to my brain, but it's small.
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post #23 of 38
2/2/12 at 7:48pm
I have a cream DB linen, a bit more yellowish or eggshell or real ecru than FC's above. 9ish oz, 3/8 lined. It looks great, but I wish I'd gone heavier. The light stuff really does wrinkle in small sharp wrinkles, like on the mustachioed gent's right inside pent leg.

By contrast, Vox/FC's 14 oz looks more like rumples: like the big beef rolls on a shell shoe.

As to color, I think that cream tan, or light wheat, a sort of creamish Burma natural, is more versatile than straight cream heading toward ivory. Still creamy enough to look great at night, but slightly less conspicuous than true cream during the day.

I take Manton's worries about 14 oz in humid weather. Maybe 12 oz is the sweet spot?
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post #24 of 38
2/2/12 at 8:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vintage Gent View Post

OK gents, I'm looking for some advice on a summer linen suit. This March, during Chan's tour o' the states, I'm going to commission a three-piece linen suit in either cream or light gray.
My inclination is to get a double-breasted waistcoat with shawl lapels. But a linen suit seems to ask for patch pockets, which to my mind are too casual to accompany a double-breasted waistcoat. Are flap pockets a better option?
As for the fabric, Harrison's Mersolair has both cream and light gray in linen, but I was hoping for something a bit more substantial. John G. Hardy has a 13 oz. cream, but no light gray (which I slightly prefer). Any other options? W. Bill?
A 3 piece linen suit defeats the purpose of wearing a linen suit. Linen is there to keep you cool bro' not hot.

Saying all that here is some inspiration:
http://abitofcolor.tumblr.com/post/15149514142/giantbeard-personalstyle-carlo-montanaro-in-a
Quote:
Originally Posted by Testudo_Aubreii View Post

I have a cream DB linen, a bit more yellowish or eggshell or real ecru than FC's above. 9ish oz, 3/8 lined. It looks great, but I wish I'd gone heavier. The light stuff really does wrinkle in small sharp wrinkles, like on the mustachioed gent's right inside pent leg.
By contrast, Vox/FC's 14 oz looks more like rumples: like the big beef rolls on a shell shoe.
As to color, I think that cream tan, or light wheat, a sort of creamish Burma natural, is more versatile than straight cream heading toward ivory. Still creamy enough to look great at night, but slightly less conspicuous than true cream during the day.
I take Manton's worries about 14 oz in humid weather. Maybe 12 oz is the sweet spot?

This. But heavier line hangs better and more away from the skin and is cooler is the general idea behind wearing 14 oz Irish linen.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy View Post

I love linen suits.
I would suggest that you skip the waist coat and go with a DB instead. It will look fashionable for many years.
I would recommend besom or patch pockets. I find linen flap pockets to be annoying because of the wrinkles.
Cream is nice but I think a deep tan or a brown is quit elegant>
525

Thanks for the photo. I bought this colour linen (called mud!) and was tossing up with to have it made SB or DB.
Edited by meister - 2/2/12 at 8:55pm
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post #25 of 38
2/2/12 at 9:52pm
No to 3 piece. DB is nice but not as cool to wear as SB. And go as heavy as you can stand. 13-14 oz is pretty good as far as drape and crease resistance is concerned but the issue is it does heat up.
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post #26 of 38
2/3/12 at 7:09am
Thread Starter 
I understand the concern about the three-piece in the height of summer. But I can always dispense with the vest in the hottest months, saving the vest for the spring and early fall.
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post #27 of 38
2/3/12 at 8:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big A View Post

The purpose of "heavy" linen escapes me.

It resists creasing to a much greater extent than the lighter stuff.

Re weight, I wear 14 ounce linen comfortably in 90 degree heat all the time and my name is not Sator.
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post #28 of 38
2/3/12 at 8:38pm
VG, your clever lament about the lack of knowledgable responses has brought out many to contradict you.

I think that it is true that different men vary in their hot weather heat tolerance to fabrics. Part of this is intrinsic; part of it is how much walking they have to do in the open heat.

You are in a summer weather hell hole, but you have had made many things there seem to be better survival candidates further North. So, I think you can take a 14oz linen in your Gulf summer, and that extra substance makes the whole thing look great.

Here I am in a soft, spongey 9oz-ish open weave Italian linen, but I could not say it wears any cooler than W. Bill for me even in the worst hot wet:

i-zWVjJ8s.jpg

Go Irish, for you.

(Borrelli/Riva linen/cotton shirt and Borrelli cotton pants, Lattanzi suede loafers.)
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post #29 of 38
2/5/12 at 7:04am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

VG, your clever lament about the lack of knowledgable responses has brought out many to contradict you.
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post #30 of 38
2/5/12 at 7:09am
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