I suspect your post was directed towards Gramm Cleric, but I’ll offer my input as I broadly agree with him. I’ve had a suit, 2 overcoats, 1 odd jacket and 4 trousers made by Frank, but continue to work with a couple of British / Italian tailors for my work suits and sportcoats.
I agree with you on Ercole’s excellent service – he is flexible and amiable, and seems to have a real interest in meeting client demands. Quite unlike many SR (and even NY) tailors, who believe they know best and the client should defer to their mastery and input. His prices are also more than fair – a true bespoke product at a little over $2,000 is a great value in any major city – more so in New York.
However, I have 2 issues with Ercole:
1. Style: the styling of his garments is not to the level of his higher-priced colleagues. It’s hard to give specifics, but as any long-time bespoke customer knows, a half-inch here and a half-inch there does make a tangible difference – it truly is a “sum greater than the parts” notion at play – the minute differences may individually not amount to, or sound like, much, but they come together as a whole quite meaningfully. A suit from Nino Corvato or Anderson & Sheppard does look smarter than an Ercole.
2. Make: I hate pointing this out as an “issue”, as it’s really not. Ercole does a fine job for the price he charges. But the higher-priced tailors have more handwork, better trimmings (I’ve had more than a few plastic zippers come loose after a few years), and cleaner stitching. As they should, as they’re charging more than twice what Frank charges.
As Gramm Cleric mentioned, none of this should be construed as a “ding” on Ercole. I like him, continue to order from him, and have directed many people away from high-end MTM, or pseudo-bespoke shops in NY, towards him. But he’s just not as good as some of the more expensive players.
I offer that as someone who has ordered garments from high-priced people on SR and NY (as well as Ercole), and so do have an objective basis for comparison. Many others with the same experience set (Manton, Cantabrigian, Gramm Cleric, and a couple who have privately pm’ed me) have indicated the same in the past.
So, there’s my argument. It is what it is, but I’d like to think its not a “shallow” one simply because it rankles a few.