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The Home Ownership Thread - Page 38

post #556 of 2629
Thread Starter 
I heard lefty's got a paint guy but he's outrageously expensive.

biggrin.gif
post #557 of 2629
Quote:
Originally Posted by imatlas View Post


I'm interpreting your comment about cheap vs expensive bids as: beware the cheap bid, because you're more likely to hit cost overruns when the rubber hits the road. The expensive bid may take into account more of the actual costs. Is that what you mean, or do you mean "cheap work is expensive to fix"?

More the former, but I am sure the latter is true as well. Nobody really gives a hard bid around here for remodels, they are all estimates, and good estimators know that in old structures, once you open something up, you never know what you are going to find, and what was done over what was original etc. You want somebody who understands this because it means that he understands his job. There are always cost overruns, you hope that they were accounted for in the estimate. Also, of course, people who are good enough to be busy don't generally need to low ball to get work.
post #558 of 2629
You can manage the project yourself. Nobody will care more, and why pay a premium to someone who is looking to rip you off anyway? I never managed a build before and did it.

Contractors can be the worst. They're sloppy, skim subcontractors, disappear without notice, and order more materials than you need to use it on other jobs.

For my addition, I was getting bids of 110k and I brought the project in myself for 65k by hiring guys myself, and along with the architect, watching them carefully. The only place I'll say I got fucked was the cement guy. We agreed he'd do fixed price if I paid materials. So instead of framing the footers, he framed the top and filled the base with cement. The inspector told me it was a big enough footer for a 4 story building. Ya its solid, but I got fucked for $1500 in extra cement where he saved a few hours framing. This is how they think. I had to argue with him a few times because he was trying to tell me the architect was wrong and take shortcuts, I almost fired him and told him he follows the drawings or fucks off.
post #559 of 2629
When you interview the cabinetmaker, ask him which type of materials he is going to use for the carcasses and also which types of hinges he plans to use.

I'm curious as to what choices you made for the kitchen materials and what style you would like to it built in?
Edited by SkinnyGoomba - 2/11/13 at 12:03pm
post #560 of 2629
Materials are still under review smile.gif The kitchen has hardwood floors, so we're hoping to keep costs down by keeping them. We're looking into quartz countertops, they seem to offer a good balance of cost, durability and appeal. We may go with a granite or marble countertop for the island, some friends of ours did that - grey quartz counters and a really stunning waterfall style island in a greenish marble. The jury is completely out on the back-splash - wife is lobbying for painting most of it (and may win based on cost). I'd like for most of the appliances to be integrated, but again, cost may prevent that. Plumbing fixtures will be brushed nickel in a contemporary style. We're talking about hanging a contemporary chandelier over the island to really take advantage of the high ceiling and large skylight (the chandelier will be suspended from a beam across the center of the skylight).

We want to respect the Victorian style of the rest of the apartment while giving it a modern look. My wife prefers shaker style cabinet doors, I'd like something with more complex moldings, but all the moldings around the house are a PITA to keep clean as it is so shaker works for me. Upper cabinets will be a lighter shade than the lowers, probably in gray. I've got my eye on some stools from Thomas Moser for the island, and they may drive some of our other design decisions.

One of the changes we made when we first moved in was to open the wall between the kitchen and the rear room of the house, giving us a 4'6" opening that reaches to the ceiling of the back room. Unfortunately, there is a huge change in the ceiling height, which will only get more dramatic if we raise the kitchen ceiling. Raising the roof of the back room is really out of the question, so we're trying to figure out how to make the transition less jarring. The architect basically wants us to frame it in as a large doorway, but we want to preserve the scale of the opening. My wife's idea is to put in a lintel with the same molding as the rest of the apartment but not frame in the opening - I like this approach, as it preserves the opening while bringing the style back in line.
post #561 of 2629
Quote:
Originally Posted by imatlas View Post

Plumbing fixtures will be brushed nickel in a contemporary style.

For faucets, I have Grohe

http://www.grohe.com/us/5641/kitchen/
post #562 of 2629
Need a new vacuum cleaner. I want a canister style. I'm thinking of getting this Miele, but I hesitate to buy lower end of the line stuff but their other vacs are really expensive. Anyone use this one?



http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/product.asp?SKU=16986127



post #563 of 2629
I have my folks' old Kirby Heritage. No you cannot have it.

FWIW the impeller broke last year, I replaced it for $12 in parts and 30 minutes' work.
post #564 of 2629
I've seen some decent deals on the electrolux canisters on ebay.

No, it is not the "real" electrolux (which does still exist if you want to spend $$$), but I bet they are pretty decent vacs...I've thought about a canister myself.
post #565 of 2629
Thread Starter 
"Vacuum cleaners" are a racket.
post #566 of 2629
We've had the same two Miele vacuums for the last 15 years. No idea which models they correspond to now.
post #567 of 2629
I have a dyson. Occasionally I hear it running in the distance.
post #568 of 2629
I have an older electrolux canister, a "guardian" model or something like that. It's nice but cost too much money.

I would really recommend a cordless if you don't have one. I've had my "Hoover Linx" for about a year, and I go for it over the real vacuum every time. Weighs nothing, works safely on hardwood floors, stands up on its own for storage, has a decent battery life, and, believe it or not, better performance with the beater brush than the electrolux.

Problem was that the handle broke after daily use for 11 months or so, but Hoover replaced it without any questions asked (including the warranty, I guess they know it's an issue).
post #569 of 2629
AFAIK, the best rated vac from consumer reports is the hoover or something which beat out the dysons and everything else.

Don't know if they tested the Aerus Electrolux or Meihle stuff...
post #570 of 2629
Thread Starter 
What's the deal with sisal rugs?

I have an entry foyer with hardwood floors and it just gets filthy. I have a little doormat inside the entry and one outside but everyone manages to track some wet shoes in and it just always looks atrocious.

Sisal always looks like an entry mat kind of material to me, but I'm not sure how finicky it is. Care instructions make it look quite fussy. But I didn't know if it might vacuum well enough, or if I could take it outside and show it the hose once a month or so. I sort of like the idea of a custom-cut sisal mat to fit the space, which is a funny shape.
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