or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Culture › Fine Living, Home, Design & Auto › The Home Ownership Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Home Ownership Thread - Page 293

post #4381 of 5760

Installing a subway tile backsplash in the kitchen.  Should I do a backerboard, some kind of thin membrane, or none of the above?

post #4382 of 5760
I like concrete backerboard. More effort, but there won't be cracking or moisture issues.
post #4383 of 5760
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

I like concrete backerboard. More effort, but there won't be cracking or moisture issues.

 

That's the way I'm leaning.  Plus it should help make sure good adhesion of the tile.  The downside is that it is another ~1/4" sticking out from the wall, which may mean I need to reposition my undercabinet lights.  No big deal though.

post #4384 of 5760
Quote:
Originally Posted by brokencycle View Post
 

Installing a subway tile backsplash in the kitchen.  Should I do a backerboard, some kind of thin membrane, or none of the above?


I used the tile adhesive sheets in my kitchen been fine for @ 5 years . Two hints if you go with them surface prep is very important ,sand with coarse paper and wipe with a good solvent .I used acetone. These things have a shelf life be sure to check the date HD will leave old crap on the shelf

post #4385 of 5760
Quote:
Originally Posted by englade321 View Post
 


I used the tile adhesive sheets in my kitchen been fine for @ 5 years . Two hints if you go with them surface prep is very important ,sand with coarse paper and wipe with a good solvent .I used acetone. These things have a shelf life be sure to check the date HD will leave old crap on the shelf


Do you mean something like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-SimpleMat-10-sq-ft-Tile-Setting-Mat-SM10R1/202828989

post #4386 of 5760
Quote:
Originally Posted by brokencycle View Post
 
 


Do you mean something like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-SimpleMat-10-sq-ft-Tile-Setting-Mat-SM10R1/202828989

yup

post #4387 of 5760
Quote:
Originally Posted by brokencycle View Post

That's the way I'm leaning.  Plus it should help make sure good adhesion of the tile.  The downside is that it is another ~1/4" sticking out from the wall, which may mean I need to reposition my undercabinet lights.  No big deal though.

No, if you are using Hardibacker, you would be demo-ing/cutting out the underlying drywall and screwing the hardibacker to the wall studs, not installing it over the drywall. In fact, cement backerboard is slightly thinner than drywall, 3/8 rather than 1/2.

It is really not necessary to do this for a backsplash, IMO. Just mortar and install tile right over the drywall.

The purpose of cement backer is not better adhesion or even water resistance, but rather to prevent expansion/contraction movement under the tile and thus cracking.

Is there an existing countertop backsplash? If so, are you going to remove it first?
post #4388 of 5760
Two weeks from today I will be knee deep in kitchen rubble (doing the demo for my kitchen remodel). But today I got to take out all the sink drain in my bathroom and make a wire hook to fish a clog of biblical proportions out of my drain line. Always nice to be able to do that kind of thing yourself instead of calling somebody.
post #4389 of 5760
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1wb View Post


No, if you are using Hardibacker, you would be demo-ing/cutting out the underlying drywall and screwing the hardibacker to the wall studs, not installing it over the drywall. In fact, cement backerboard is slightly thinner than drywall, 3/8 rather than 1/2.

It is really not necessary to do this for a backsplash, IMO. Just mortar and install tile right over the drywall.

The purpose of cement backer is not better adhesion or even water resistance, but rather to prevent expansion/contraction movement under the tile and thus cracking.

Is there an existing countertop backsplash? If so, are you going to remove it first?

 

No.  It was just painted drywall, and we replaced the countertop which was laminate with the 1" backsplash.

post #4390 of 5760
Whatever you do, don't start any tile work without spending some time reading up on all the expertise available from the John Bridge site - good luck!

I do think the pro approach would be to remove an existing granite (or whatever) backsplash sits on your countertop and tile the backsplash right down to the counter surface.
post #4391 of 5760
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1wb View Post

The purpose of cement backer is not better adhesion or even water resistance, but rather to prevent expansion/contraction movement under the tile and thus cracking.

Right. My comment about moisture was more about having a substrate that offers no place for mold to get a foothold.
post #4392 of 5760
In a kitchen there is no advantage to using hardiboard or cement board if the drywall is already there, and you will just add time and expense.
In a bathroom it makes sense because it doesn't mold, or at least, not as easily. Neither does it deteriorate in moist conditions. But even here ito is only necessary around the tub or showroom enclosure. Tiling the walls of a bathroom can be done straight on the drywall.
post #4393 of 5760
Where is your commitment, SeaJen?! smile.gif
post #4394 of 5760

Thanks guys.  Appreciate the feedback!  Another question for you.  Any of you have experience with either Behr or other deck restoration paint?  It allegedly grips better than normal paint, helps preserve the wood, and often has a texture to it.  Last summer I tried regular deck paint, and it started to flak off in less than 6 months.  The deck is probably 10-15 years old and is standard pressure treated wood which has always been painted.  I think stain won't look good on it.

 

Before I spend 2x per gallon on paint, I figure I'd ask for any experience with it.

post #4395 of 5760

My wife and I are weighing the pros and cons of selling our current home vs. staying and investing in some upgrades. We live in a small neighborhood of only 80-something homes. It's in an area that had been mainly agricultural in the past, but is very near to a desirable residential area, and is currently undergoing a lot of construction. We feel that eventually, our area will be like an "extension" of the other, more established town, but it's not there yet. The point of the backstory is that we had our home built by the developer of this community, and there aren't tons of comps at this time other than our own neighborhood. There are two other communities directly north and south of ours, but it seems unlikely that an appraiser would choose homes there as a comp over those in more direct competition.

 

A few months ago, a neighbor in a larger home than mine sold his property for considerably (20-25%) less than what we would have considered market value. His sales price was around the price of the home we built. We suspect that he sold to a family member or close friend and maybe took some cash on the side, or worked out some sort of "alternative" arrangement with them. As a result, it's possible (maybe likely) that our home would end up appraising for less than a fair price based on the south Florida market. Is there anything we could do proactively to reduce the impact this sale will have on us, other than just waiting it out? Our neighborhood doesn't have much activity, so we're concerned that we could be waiting a while.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
Styleforum › Forums › Culture › Fine Living, Home, Design & Auto › The Home Ownership Thread