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The Home Ownership Thread - Page 284

post #4246 of 5754
It was a washing machine, and it was hot water and bleach. Hot water dissolves mineral deposits that cooler water might not. The mineral deposits let the mildew get a footing. Bleach, of course, kills it.

Not sure if you can put bleach in a dishwasher. A google search says not to do it if you have a stainless steel tub, since bleach can corrode stainless steel. That might be the case for many stainless steels, but not all, as they use stainless steel in washing machines, too, and it holds up just fine there. The dishwasher isn't exactly an easy place for stainless (look at what it does to cheaper silverware) so I imagine the steel they use can take it. But, honestly, I don't know, so do it at your own risk.

Personally I've never had mold issues in the dishwasher, but then we always use the high-heat settings, rinse aid, etc.

Try raising the temperature on your water heater.
post #4247 of 5754

http://www.parrinst.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/2011/07/Parr_Stainless-Steels-Corrosion-Info.pdf

Have fun

post #4248 of 5754
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ataturk View Post

It was a washing machine, and it was hot water and bleach. Hot water dissolves mineral deposits that cooler water might not. The mineral deposits let the mildew get a footing. Bleach, of course, kills it.

Not sure if you can put bleach in a dishwasher. A google search says not to do it if you have a stainless steel tub, since bleach can corrode stainless steel. That might be the case for many stainless steels, but not all, as they use stainless steel in washing machines, too, and it holds up just fine there. The dishwasher isn't exactly an easy place for stainless (look at what it does to cheaper silverware) so I imagine the steel they use can take it. But, honestly, I don't know, so do it at your own risk.

Personally I've never had mold issues in the dishwasher, but then we always use the high-heat settings, rinse aid, etc.

Try raising the temperature on your water heater.

 

Yeah, we haven't had any issues until late.  I'm a bit hesitant to use bleach for the risk of damaging the gaskets.

Ultimately the build up was mostly in the steam vent (and then the inside of the door where the water pooled).  It is all cleared out and disinfected now.  The dishwasher has a plastic tub, is cheap, and is 12 years old.  It will likely get replaced in the next year or so.  I can't stand how loud it is.

post #4249 of 5754
I've noticed something in the new house and would be interested in some input from you guys.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Our house has a vaulted entryway with a stairway beside it, and the ceiling in the living room is vaulted. There are also large windows in the stairway that start about 1/4 of the way from the floor (at the landing for the stairs) to near the ceiling. There are two windows on top of each other, separated by probably 3-4" of drywall. There are also large windows in the living room, both toward the floor level and in the vaulted ceiling, these separated by a few feet.

The house is 20 years old and was vacant for a few months before we bought it, but it was maintained, including, as far as I know, climate control. It's on slab.

Now, the question:

In these areas with large walls, I can see the outline of the framing all over the place. It's especially noticeable in artificial light from above. The lines are mostly horizontal and are evenly spaced, and they look like they're happening at the drywall joints. When I look at the pictures from the listing, I can see some evidence of it in the living room, but there aren't enough good pictures from elsewhere to know. It's hard to know if they were already there and I'm just noticing, or if they're new, but I will say that they've definitely changed in some places, as I'm seeing what looks like creases in some drywall joints (I wouldn't call them cracks).

The horizontal bulging also seems to be more prevalent at the top/bottom of the windows on the landing, which concerns me, but it may just be because the height is about the same as a piece of drywall.

I've also noticed a few nail pops in the areas where this is happening, but they don't seem to be pervasive.

At first I was thinking foundation issues, but I can't find any evidence for that elsewhere. No sticky/jacked doors or windows, no diagonal cracks leading up from door/window frames, no magically-opening closing doors/cabinets, no cracked tiles or out-of-place hardwood, etc. It's hard to see a lot of the foundation because the Hardie siding comes down low and the landscaping obscures some of it, but I did some poking around and couldn't find any cracks. The only crack I can find outside is on one of the garage doors on the edge of the lentel, and it's a fine vertical crack that doesn't stair-step e masonry. It's also hard to imagine a 20-year-old house would settle the week I moved in, and I spent a lot of time with the inspector poring over things because I'm paranoid about foundation problems. He had no concerns, though he's admittedly not an engineer.

If it's not the foundation, what could be the problem? It's an eyesore, but I don't want to bother spot-fixing the aesthetic problems if they're just going to come back.

Any ideas?
post #4250 of 5754
G, my house is sound and that has happened to me to some extent. After some time and plenty of settling on the part of the lumber used to construct the house, the drywall seems can show. This is also, in no small part, due to the fact that it's typical to use nails instead of screws to apply the drywall and also the installers rarely build up the coatings to a proper level.

I've spent quite a good amount of time fixing that and the worst place for it was in my stairwell. The walls were also showing plenty of unevenness.

The fix, for me, was to remove all of the popped nails and replace them with screws, then apply joint compound to all of the joints along the wall, drawing them out to about 12" or more on either side of the joint. I haven't had any re-appear and some of my work is now about 2-3 years old, and some of it a few months old (or weeks old) which is also still looking good.

I also screwed the drywall in a few areas just to add some integrity to the connection between the drywall and studs.

I had a few cracks where the original installed omitted the use of joint tape, and so I had to tape those joints.

FWIW the difference between good joint compound and bad is very little, in terms of price, so buy the good stuff which makes life slightly easier.

It's alot of work, almost all of the expense is labor....so I use my own labor....which is free to me.
post #4251 of 5754
Can't flat paint help that issue too? Not fix it, of course, but make it harder to see?
post #4252 of 5754
Flat paint makes it harder to see, but its less durable in everyday use, so if you end up painting the whole house (walls and ceiling) you'll notice scuffs show up easier and are harder to remove...not an issue with the ceiling alone.
post #4253 of 5754
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkinnyGoomba View Post

Flat paint makes it harder to see, but its less durable in everyday use, so if you end up painting the whole house (walls and ceiling) you'll notice scuffs show up easier and are harder to remove...not an issue with the ceiling alone.


Benjamin Moore Bath and Spa is really tough and pretty flat  . It is not cheap

post #4254 of 5754
That Benjamin Moore matte paint with ceramic is pretty flat (falls between flat and eggshell on the chart) and I felt like it held up quite well to some scrubbing in my backsplashless kitchen.

Applied like a dream too...
post #4255 of 5754
Those are good ideas! I used Natura in eggshell, pretty happy with it. Did not want to deal with paint smell.
post #4256 of 5754
After the 55 inch TV in our family room broke, we replaced it with a 50 inch. Our family room is not especially large, we sit 8-9 feet from the TV. I'm skeptical of these charts that recommend a screen size based on viewing distance. They remind of the "you're supposed to spend x months salary on an engagement ring." While I'm sure there is reasoning behind the chart, it basically says anyone not living in a dorm room or studio apartment needs a 60+ inch TV. I had to fight the consumer in me and reason with myself. 80% of what I watch in the family room is news (most of the video I watch at home is on an iPad). Based on the prices below (same model) I felt the 50 inch was the best deal. WWSFD?

50 inch: $959
55 inch: $1,399
65 inch: $1,800
post #4257 of 5754
My dudes:

Wife and I are shopping for shades. She had a meeting with Smith and Noble today and liked what she saw.

Are there other companies out there that do custom shades that you have used and liked? We have a number of sliders, french doors, custom-sized windows, bay windows, etc.

Thanks!
post #4258 of 5754
Quote:
Originally Posted by suited View Post

I'm skeptical of these charts that recommend a screen size based on viewing distance. They remind of the "you're supposed to spend x months salary on an engagement ring." While I'm sure there is reasoning behind the chart, it basically says anyone not living in a dorm room or studio apartment needs a 60+ inch TV. I had to fight the consumer in me and reason with myself. 80% of what I watch in the family room is news (most of the video I watch at home is on an iPad).

The charts, IIRC, are usually for the biggest TV you want at the given distance, based on the viewing angles.

Personally I don't think most of the "features" available on higher end models are worth anything. I'd rather have a bigger TV so I can actually see the picture.
post #4259 of 5754
I think part of it used to be the viewer would observe pixels if the TV was too close relative to size. Now you can buy 90" fuckers that you can stand right in front of and not see the pixellation. Buy the 65".
post #4260 of 5754

^^^ there are probably no end of custom drapery people in the bay area, but be prepared for sticker shock. For our LR we needed 50 yds and fabrics we liked was in the 150/yd range. Plus 4K for the work.

 

For three windows.

 

We did use The Shade Store for cheaper velvet in our bedroom, but they couldn't get the length right and remade them four times. They finally asked, "if we give you all your money back will you go away?" Sure.

 

lefty

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