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The Home Ownership Thread - Page 24

post #346 of 7018
What are you going to attach the nose to? It needs a couple inches on the subfloor to stick when people put their full weight on it, which they will.

Maybe you're right, though. If you can't take constructive criticism you should stay off the internet.
post #347 of 7018
Non of it is constructive, you've yet to start up one of your tools, however you're on here telling me how to perform woodworking tasks and build things. It's all under the guise of knowing, yet a quick search proves you incorrect. There are 161,000 results for plywood floor on
post #348 of 7018
I looked at and tried the search. I went through about ten pages of results--most weren't plywood floors at all, and nearly all of the rest were painted or obviously pine. I didn't see a single finished hardwood plywood floor.

And I've used the table saw before, doofus. I just moved and my new shop is a second, detached garage that isn't wired for 220v. Now, admittedly, I'm not a veteran woodworker. I've done some turning and a lot of carpentry, and I got the saw about a year and a half ago so I could start cabinetmaking. I haven't really done much with it, that's true.

But I've put down several hardwood floors and picked up a thing or two in the process. One is that people with a trained eye look for repeating patterns in the floor. It's an easy way to spot laminate or amateur installations. That's why hardwood comes in random lengths (and alternating widths are becoming popular too...). Your plywood -- which looks like the top of an MDF desk with that veneer cut -- really just jumped out to me. I don't like it, and I know I'm not going to be alone in that. Look at the people on -- they're using plywood extensively as stylistic choice. You're using solid walnut treads and presumably (hopefully) won't be using plywood elsewhere in the house. It looks really out of place.

I really don't get it, either, since hardwood plywood isn't cheap. Real solid walnut flooring wouldn't have cost you more than another hundred bucks or so, if that.
post #349 of 7018
post #350 of 7018
I've not seen this Houzz site before...I like it
post #351 of 7018
I see pine and birch, which are cheap wood and probably intended to look beat up eventually given the way they're finished. Even though they probably have a much thicker face veneer than walnut ply, they still won't hold up. It's just some dumb yuppies putting plywood down because it's different.

I just gotta go back to engineered wood. It's intended to be used for floors, and look at the wear layer -- it's thick, much thicker than plywood, for good reason. Walnut isn't even hard wood to begin with. And obviously you can't sand the plywood down to refinish it.

It seems like a really bad idea to me. But whatever, best of luck to ya.
post #352 of 7018
Originally Posted by otc View Post

I've not seen this Houzz site before...I like it

I saw a link to it about a week ago. I blew an entire evening clicking through pictures of all kinds of things.
post #353 of 7018
Birch plywood is hardwood plywood, it's furniture grade, often used as a substrate for high quality veneer work and it costs about $80 for a sheet in 3/4.
Edited by SkinnyGoomba - 1/22/13 at 5:37am
post #354 of 7018
post #355 of 7018
Stephen, it rarely surprises me when you have something negative to add.
post #356 of 7018
SG, normally I keep an open mind, but I'd hesitate to go with a plywood product as a finished floor. Maybe there are better products than what I've used, or perhaps you won't use the stairwell much, maybe you're laying down a lot of poly, I don't know. But refinishing it is probably a one-off deal, if that. Maybe replacing it would be easier than refinishing it, anyway.
Originally Posted by Ataturk View Post

Walnut? I love it. Though your landing looks like plywood, not sure how I feel about that.

The only carpet in my house is on the stairs and it's an eyesore. Much too quiet and safe for my taste, so I'll be undertaking that project eventually. (...)

The bolded part needs more love than it got.
Originally Posted by idfnl View Post

Anyone have any data on whether gas is now cheaper than electric for winter heat?

I can't find any. I have a carrier heat pump/furnace setup and cant decide what the break-off temp should be between both systems.

Considering I hear gas prices are at all time lows, I'm not sure its being reflected in utility bills.

As it was told to me a while back, the gas companies probably bought their inventory at earlier (higher) prices and aren't going to sell their inventory at a loss, no matter what the current rates are. Whether the behavior operates the same on the other side of the curve, I can't really say. This may or may not also be accounted for in futures / forward contracts as well.
post #357 of 7018
Originally Posted by Ataturk View Post

Here's something I find amusing--a color history of the inside of my house:

That's right, bright pink and then sky blue. And I say it's sky, but it's really a very dark sky. I'm telling you, it's damned ugly. Maybe as ugly as the pink.

And, yeah, as far as I can tell the whole house was originally pink, not just that room.

haha - we have an 85 year old house. As we've gone through and done project after project, we've uncovered all sorts of prior paint jobs. However, I think in like 7 of the 11 rooms in the house we've repainted, we've found evidence that the room was at one point or another either the same color, or a derivative color of what we were painting. Its pretty comical.
post #358 of 7018
Thomas, that's my thought process. Wanted to experiment a little, I generally enjoy the look of plywood and veneer panel. I saw it put to use and wanted to try it in a high traffic area that would test it.
post #359 of 7018
Thread Starter 
The Ataturk/SH Friendship Outreach Brigade has been here, I see.
post #360 of 7018
Arg, what I thought was going to be a pretty straightforward project to enclose my carport into a garage is getting a lot pricier. The architect wants a structural engineer's assessment of the existing carport structure (that will cost $$) and knowing structural engineers, he'll probably need to justify his existence by recommending some kind of steel beam to correct a slight sag in one of the roof beams. I could easily correct the sag with some bracing but that's not good enough for them.
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