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The Home Ownership Thread - Page 127

post #1891 of 7024

^^^Maybe. If it helps the lines are tied off in circuit so the blacks are capped together, the whites are capped together and the red is capped alone.


Power is running through the box.



post #1892 of 7024
So the box might be a junction. Wondering what else it effects.

Did you find some batteries for your tester yet?
post #1893 of 7024

I guess I could disconnect it and see what doesnt turn on.


Not yet.



post #1894 of 7024
How hard is installing your own hardwood flooring? Glued vs. floating? What's the best way to shop for this stuff? Don't know anything about it frown.gif
post #1895 of 7024
Originally Posted by VLSI View Post

How hard is installing your own hardwood flooring? Glued vs. floating? What's the best way to shop for this stuff? Don't know anything about it frown.gif


My handy stepfather installed wood flooring but I would say it took about 3x as long for him to do it as someone else to do it.  A nail gun is a must.


We currently have glued flooring in our townhouse and it has a lot of gaps where I think the people who had it installed, didn't wait for it to dry.  Plus the glue got on a lot of base boards.  Cannot recall who has floating flooring that I know.


Can't help from a shopping standpoint but it did come up when we thought of replacing our glued will cost about the same to remove the old flooring as it will cost to buy the new flooring per square foot.


As for our townhouse we are selling, we got an offer at 6.5% off asking.  We are countering hoping to get a little more out of our place.  Enough to cover a few things in the new place in addition to our down payment.  So far we are at 22 days on the market with 2 weeks being over the Christmas and New Year's holidays.

post #1896 of 7024

I've installed floating floors - not difficult at all. 



post #1897 of 7024
You can't nail wood to a concrete slab. In fact you really can't use soild wood; you have to use "engineered" flooring, which is basically plywood strips with a thick hardwood veneer.

It's not hard to install, at all, but you need to be patient and methodical. You'll need a miter saw, a table saw to rip boards, a jig saw for complicated cuts, chalk lines, trowels, etc. You also need to be sure about moisture from the slab before do it. That means either using a moisture barrier (adds expense --something like $0.50 per square foot) or having the slab tested (hard to find somebody to do it right, and also kind of expensive). I wouldn't do a floating floor.

To glue it down you just chalk out 18" strips across the whole length of the room, trowel out that much glue, and lay down that many boards at a time. When you get to the end of the line you mark the boards in place and cut them, then install. It's a lot of bending over and getting up and down from your knees if you don't have a helper.

Shopping for the wood is easy since most of it is made by a couple companies. The best measure of quality is the thickness of the wear layer (that's the top veneer of hardwood in engineered flooring). You want to get a glue that's not water based and you need to figure out whether you need a moisture barrier. Some glues have it built in (but they're costly).
post #1898 of 7024
I'm contemplating this for my basement also and my plan is vapor barrier, plywood then engineered flooring.
post #1899 of 7024

Red is hot. Discounting them all killed the under the counter lights.


Am now at a loss as to what to do with that red wire.



post #1900 of 7024
Sounds like installing glue down may be out of my league, especially given that I have no experience, help, or tools. Floating I think I could manage, but not sure if I want to make the step down. It pretty much has to be engineered, no one has real hardwood here, so that's already what I was planning. I did get a quote last year for my two rooms and came in around 4k installed for some middle-of-the-road priced glue down engineered wood, which seemed high and was more than I could cough up at the time. Here's the space: Living room and formal dining (though I'm just going to turn this into home office instead). I'd love to add hardwood to my family room too, but it's even bigger and I just don't think I can afford to do it...
post #1901 of 7024
Can't look at the pictures at the moment, but if money's the main problem, do it yourself. No need to pay someone $5 a square foot (or more) for labor. The tools you need aren't expensive and you can spread the work out over time if it's too demanding. Try to do it so you finish off a can of the adhesive when you stop (it doesn't keep long after being opened). Having help is nice, but it's not necessary. Count on your back being sore on Monday, though.

That's with the caveat that I would recommend buying all the wood at the same time, if the rooms are connected, otherwise you'll have problems with transitioning and matching finishes.
post #1902 of 7024
Alright, I'll have to research this more. It would be good to learn these skills, my dad just says pay people when I ask about things confused.gif Can I at least buy wood for the third room at a later date since it's far away? Where is best place to buy? Is lowes/hd as good as anyone else?
post #1903 of 7024
Yeah, it's basically all the same. As far as I know all the stores sell wood flooring made from a couple companies, under a myriad of brand names.

Basically what you want to look for with engineered is a thick wear layer and long random lengths. Most are about 4' max, which is OK; you'll pay a premium for longer boards. Width of boards depends on your preference. Likewise with the finish, but you should get prefinished wood.

A relative of mine owns a carpet store, and she says they don't make any money selling wood, just on the installation. Last time I got some, it was from Home Depot.
post #1904 of 7024
How does engineered wood age? I've always worried that, like shoes, it would wear out rather than wear in.
post #1905 of 7024

Heres most of the pics. Pain to transfer thrm over on my phone smile.gifWarning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
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