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Detachable Collar Shirts

post #1 of 38
1/29/12 at 6:24am
Thread Starter 

I have been looking for something which may not exist in RTW / OTR. What I would like to find is a not-too-expensive detachable collar shirt. I know one can buy these from reproduction companies, and formal 'tuxedo-fronted' or plaque-fronted shirts of course. However, I would also like such a shirt in a fairly slim, modern fit, and in a variety of colours and patterns - i.e. high quality conventional dress shirts to which one can fit collars. The only think I have found so far is a simple white one from Thomas Pink. Most of the usual online shirtmakers do not seem to produce them and even the MTM options do not seem to offer them. A search on this site produced nothing useful.

 

So, does anyone here have a recommendation, or am I just going to have to go fully bespoke to get the collar / shirt combinations I want?

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post #2 of 38
1/29/12 at 7:42am

After lurking for a few years, this post has finally made me create an account.  

 

As I also reside in Ontario, I can highly recommend Trend Custom Tailors in Toronto.  They have experience making 

detachable collars, I've ordered from them and was very impressed with the result.  The shirts are cut and sewn on the premises.  There's a minimum order for 3 shirts.  You should check out their website for more details.

 

 

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post #3 of 38
1/29/12 at 7:46am
Look at companies that make court tunic shirts in the UK like:
http://www.stanley-ley.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_copy_of_Summer_Season_2009_Court_Tunics.html
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post #4 of 38
1/29/12 at 8:13am
TM Lewin does one now.
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post #5 of 38
1/29/12 at 8:18am
http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/Tunic-Shirts/Mens-Tunic-Shirts,en_GB,sc.html

+1 on Stanley Ley.
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post #6 of 38
1/29/12 at 8:23am
budget in mind...?

some ideas though I'm not sure they all could do this for you:
Could by anyone from Trend (Don Lee, made locally) to guys like Xavier (MDavie on the forum here) or 5th on King/Sprezzatura (now 26 Wellington, called Garrison Bespoke - made in Honk Kong), and I think Green Shag on Queen West...
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post #7 of 38
1/29/12 at 8:48am
You might find it problematic to find a ready to wear tunic shirt in a slimmish fit, depending upon how strictly you interpret it. In addition to Stanley Ley and T.M. Lewin, both linked to above, the following are possibilities for regular tunic shirts:

Bromley's/Classic Wardrobe:

http://www.classicwardrobe.co.uk/Collarless-Shirts.aspx

http://www.classicwardrobe.co.uk/Detachable-Collars.aspx (collars, stiff and soft)


Ede & Ravenscroft:

https://legal.edeandravenscroft.co.uk/BuyAccessories.aspx (a poor selection of shirts and a better selection of collars of various types, under different tabs: the in-store selection is much better)

Pakeman Catto and Carter:

http://www.pakeman.co.uk/category/96/Collarless_Shirts (white and blue only)


Darcy Clothing:

http://www.darcyclothing.com/shop/shirts/button-through-striped-tunic-shirt-with-separate-collars-sh183.html (I get the impression that you are not keen on reproduction clothing stores but these may be worth a look)

http://www.darcyclothing.com/shop/collars.html (stiff and soft collars)

I struggle to think of any others.
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post #8 of 38
1/29/12 at 9:40am
I have had detachable collar shirts made by both Jantzen and Nialma.
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post #9 of 38
1/29/12 at 10:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony Jordan View Post

Darcy Clothing:
http://www.darcyclothing.com/shop/shirts/button-through-striped-tunic-shirt-with-separate-collars-sh183.html (I get the impression that you are not keen on reproduction clothing stores but these may be worth a look)
http://www.darcyclothing.com/shop/collars.html (stiff and soft collars)
I struggle to think of any others.

I think the collars are as important, or more so, than the shirt. My wife makes all my tunics from a pattern that a custom shirtmaker developed for my unusual posture (a result of forty years of making shoes)

I have ordered collars from both Darcy and Bromley's. Contemporary collars such as Bromley offers are fine. Better than fine. If, however, you want that classic fin de seicle look of high society, none of the wing collars except the high stiff collar offered by Darcy are right. Shaping a wing collar such that it actually has a pronounced wing only makes it look "off"...like a "costume"...and a shallow wing collar is even worse.

FWIW.
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post #10 of 38
1/29/12 at 10:50am
http://www.harvieandhudson.com/c/Turn_Back_Cuff_Shirts_Neckband_Turn_Back_Cuff_Shirts.htm


http://www.newandlingwood.com/category.php?id=9



Most J St makers make them.
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post #11 of 38
1/29/12 at 1:02pm
Thread Starter 


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


I think the collars are as important, or more so, than the shirt. My wife makes all my tunics from a pattern that a custom shirtmaker developed for my unusual posture (a result of forty years of making shoes)
I have ordered collars from both Darcy and Bromley's. Contemporary collars such as Bromley offers are fine. Better than fine. If, however, you want that classic fin de seicle look of high society, none of the wing collars except the high stiff collar offered by Darcy are right. Shaping a wing collar such that it actually has a pronounced wing only makes it look "off"...like a "costume"...and a shallow wing collar is even worse.
FWIW.

 

Agreed. I already have both collars and shirts from Darcy's. Their collars are excellent (and some are actually original NOS not reproduction), but I have found that the shirts are very much for theatrical use only and they don't tend to make them small enough for me anyway.

 

My wife is a actually a pretty good seamstress and makes quite a lot of stuff for herself and our son, but she's nowhere near as practiced in the art of shirtmaking as yours. And I don't think she'd want to make my shirts - she gets fed up enough with my clothes as it is!

 

Strangely, size also seems to be a problem in Harvie and Hudson's, Bromley's, Stanley Ley's (particular shame here because they have a good range of colours and patterns) and New and Lingwood's collarless shirts, at least in their RTW versions available on their websites. I have a 14.5" neck at maximum, and they start at 15" (or 15.5" in the case of the first one...). They are also not particularly slim fitting, which is what I want (I have a 36" chest and a 31" waist and am generally pretty trim).

 

So I think the best solution for me so far has come from St Vincent and Master-Classter - I think I will check out Trend and my other local(ish) shirtmakers. I guess I should be supporting them in the first instance anyway...

 

Thank-you for all your helpful suggestions, and if any further options come up, do keep posting them here - I am sure a few other members may also be interested.


Edited by FlyingMonkey - 1/29/12 at 1:17pm
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post #12 of 38
1/30/12 at 3:32am

nice links on the detachable collar shirts.

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post #13 of 38
1/30/12 at 4:50am
a good tailor could separate the band from the leaf of the collar and then add the extra buttonholes.

or just remove the collar and add a white band to the collar.
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post #14 of 38
1/30/12 at 5:39am
New & Lingwood, Welsh and Jefferies and Billings and Edmonds and Tom Brown all make very affordable detachable collar shirts RTW
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post #15 of 38
1/30/12 at 12:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post

a good tailor could separate the band from the leaf of the collar and then add the extra buttonholes.
or just remove the collar and add a white band to the collar.

Yes, I have had this done a few times with good results, although I found that for the best appearance/comfort it is important to ensure that the band is shortened.
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