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Better to buy too big or too small?

post #1 of 12
1/19/12 at 5:01pm
Thread Starter 
I recently tried on a J-Crew tweed blazer in one of their stores. I tried on a 38R which fit pretty well in the shoulders and was tapered perfectly in the sides but the sleeves obviously had to be tailored and the chest had a little excess fabric.

I then tried on the 36R which fit really well in the shoulders but when I buttoned it the jacket was pulling and it seemed a little short. It looked REALLY fitted. I assumed that it was too small.

My question is: Is it better to purchase a suit jacket too small or too big? I was curious if you thought the sides could be let out a little on the 36R. My guess is no but I thought I would inquire with the experts on here. Your help would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 12
1/19/12 at 5:34pm
I think it looks way worse if its too big!

americans are the worst at buying clothes too big and blazers that sleeves hit there knuckels...why?... I image its because the american male is so afraid of being called a girl or gay they they buy everything 2 sizes too big... I can spot out americans wherever i live in the world just on this...

I actually like it if its too short or tight in the chest... check out some how thom browne cuts his jackets....

if it barely buttons on the front, its going to look fitted and cool when its open, where as a little too big is going to look even bigger open...

but of course its personal preference... as long as you wear what you like and happy!
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post #3 of 12
1/19/12 at 5:38pm
Get the one that is slightly bigger and have it tailored.
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post #4 of 12
1/19/12 at 6:17pm
Get the 38R and tailor the sleeves.

It is easier to get a slightly larger fitted than a slightly smaller one.
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post #5 of 12
1/19/12 at 8:19pm
Buy a jacket that fits your shoulders. Assuming there is enough fabric, everything else can be tailored, within limits and for a price, but shoulders cannot.

If you are between a 36 and 38, try a Euro 48 (it translates to a US 37.8. To convert Euro sizes to US, divide by 2.54 to convert cm to inches and multiply by 2 since the Euro measure is across the chest, measured flat, whereas the US size is circumference). If you can't find a Euro 48, I would buy the 38 and tailor chest and sleeves down in size. A jacket that pulls and is too short can't be tailored to alleviate those issues.
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post #6 of 12
1/19/12 at 8:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by thinman View Post

Buy a jacket that fits your shoulders. Assuming there is enough fabric, everything else can be tailored, within limits and for a price, but shoulders cannot.

shoulders, buttoning point, length:

http://putthison.com/post/9394551419/three-basic-points-of-fit-waist-shoulder

don't buy a jacket that does not fit you in these areas. if neither the 36 nor the 38 fit, you need to find a jacket with a different cut or from a different maker. that one isn't going to look right ever.

i'd add that if the collar doesn't fit well it can be tricky and expensive to get that right, although it's not necessarily impossible.
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post #7 of 12
1/20/12 at 4:17am

well the shoulders should fit perfectly for one thing, this is rreally an essential part of the suit/shirt

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post #8 of 12
1/21/12 at 12:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

shoulders, buttoning point, length:
http://putthison.com/post/9394551419/three-basic-points-of-fit-waist-shoulder
don't buy a jacket that does not fit you in these areas. if neither the 36 nor the 38 fit, you need to find a jacket with a different cut or from a different maker. that one isn't going to look right ever.
i'd add that if the collar doesn't fit well it can be tricky and expensive to get that right, although it's not necessarily impossible.

This is good advice, except that the collar can be removed and shortened, fabric on the upper back removed, etc. and the collar re-attached. The collar is not so critical as shoulder, length, and button point, as mentioned above. His advice to look to another maker is sound, too. There are some makers whose suits I won't even try on anymore because I know, for example, that the armholes are too low, the chest too big, etc. Every manufacturer's suits will fit your body slightly differently, even if the sizing is nominally the same.
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post #9 of 12
1/21/12 at 12:06pm
Get the one that fits in the shoulders. But in your case, just don't get either J. Crew one and find one that fits your body better.
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post #10 of 12
1/21/12 at 12:25pm
get the 38r and tailor it.. You will also have fabric to work with in the future
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post #11 of 12
1/21/12 at 4:03pm
Try buying something that fits. This Board does confirm that Americans buy badly fitting garments and have too much confidence in the ability to have tailors work miracles.
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post #12 of 12
1/21/12 at 4:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by thinman View Post

This is good advice, except that the collar can be removed and shortened, fabric on the upper back removed, etc. and the collar re-attached. The collar is not so critical as shoulder, length, and button point, as mentioned above. His advice to look to another maker is sound, too. There are some makers whose suits I won't even try on anymore because I know, for example, that the armholes are too low, the chest too big, etc. Every manufacturer's suits will fit your body slightly differently, even if the sizing is nominally the same.

Yes, the collar can be altered, I didn't mean to imply that it couldn't - especially if it's just a horizontal pulling right under the collar, in which case it can be shortened, as you say. But not all collar problems are such a simple fix, and even this alteration is 2-3x as expensive as, say, getting the sleeves shortened. It's a significant enough problem that it's worth considering if you're somewhat on the fence about a jacket, but certainly something that can be overcome if you love the jacket otherwise.
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