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Matching textures with tweed

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

It's an interesting forum phenomenon that I've described before, and Spooky-v.Jan2012 is probably the least bad example right now because, as you note, it's often just Pokey's square (in terms of ensemble color and pattern rather than, say, form, which still can be discordant to my eyes) that is fighting to be free.
At the other end of this phenomenon, you have the whole range of ensembles that have become rooted in a boring/soporific tie, but everything else is haywire. This shitty look abounds on SF right now. I swear people are wearing neckties now that cost more than their jackets.
I say that these are forum phenoms because I can't imagine seeing such things in real life. I find myself amazed to say so, but I really do think it is the result of (1) the CBD WAYWRN thread and (2) the Soporific tie thread. They've spawned partial mutations.
Another thing to think about what Spoo is wearing today: does a fuzzy shepherds check wool tie really go with a hard worsted pinstripe peak lapel worn with black bals? A check in silk, sure...but a wool?
Most dudes should just stay away from wool ties until they've mastered silk. You want nubbliness? Wear a silk knit.
The two consistent issues right now in WAYWRN are (1) pretty much no one seems to wear anything that fits or is proportioned well and (2) there seems to be little understanding of (or if there is understanding that is not apparent to me, then no appreciation for) how elements of an ensemble relate to one another. And by "relate," I don't mean just in the girly senses of color, pattern and texture...although it is a good day on SF when even that happens.

Vox's comment above brings to mind a question I've had for some time now -- how does one match textures with tweed?

With most tweed jackets, I can't help feeling that the shirt's texture feels out of place with the tweed jacket and wool trousers. I seem to have less of a problem with the trousers, but most shirt fabrics seem to be at odds with the "rough" look and feel of a tweed jacket.

I looked to WAYWRN and the Tweed Appreciation Thread for inspiration. But even there, I felt that while a few looks were great, there were a good many where the shirt textures didn't seem to work well with the tweeds at all. Am I alone in feeling this way?

Does anyone have any thoughts on what kind of materials/textures I should be looking for? Are there some shirt fabrics that work better than others? And pictures would be greatly appreciated! smile.gif
Edited by Metlin - 1/19/12 at 3:46pm
post #2 of 9
Oxford cloth and chambray are standard, I thought?
post #3 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Oxford cloth and chambray are standard, I thought?

That makes sense, and I usually use OCBD shirts with my tweeds. But I almost feel that some (e.g. BB's OBCDs) feel too "polished" against the rougher tweeds. I have not tried chambray, perhaps I should.
post #4 of 9
No, chambray is not "standard" with tweed. I think this hits on Vox's eloquent tirade that nobody here knows what they're doing.

Chambray dress shirts, for whatever their merits, are vastly more popular now than they were five or fifty years ago. They are a trend, not an indispensable wardrobe item like the OCBD. One would only get that impression by living in WAYWRN la-la land.

When pairing shirt textures to tweed, you need not be so particular about the shirt and concern yourself much more with your tie. What's important is how all the constituent parts harmonize.

I typically wear a blue poplin, spread collar shirt with my tweed and tweed-ish jackets. Then, I pick a rougher textured tie to finish it off.
post #5 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

No, chambray is not "standard" with tweed. I think this hits on Vox's eloquent tirade that nobody here knows what they're doing.
Chambray dress shirts, for whatever their merits, are vastly more popular now than they were five or fifty years ago. They are a trend, not an indispensable wardrobe item like the OCBD. One would only get that impression by living in WAYWRN la-la land.
When pairing shirt textures to tweed, you need not be so particular about the shirt and concern yourself much more with your tie. What's important is how all the constituent parts harmonize.
I typically wear a blue poplin, spread collar shirt with my tweed and tweed-ish jackets. Then, I pick a rougher textured tie to finish it off.

Because they're more popular now than 5 years ago they don't go well with tweed? Sorry I should have chosen a better word than "standard", which I suppose can imply "traditional"...but anyway back to the original point...conditional on choosing apt neckwear, or no neckwear at all, what is the opinion of those who know what they're doing on the pairing of chambray and tweed?

-someone who doesn't know what they're doing
post #6 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Because they're more popular now than 5 years ago they don't go well with tweed? Sorry I should have chosen a better word than "standard", which I suppose can imply "traditional"...but anyway back to the original point...conditional on choosing apt neckwear, or no neckwear at all, what is the opinion of those who know what they're doing on the pairing of chambray and tweed?
-someone who doesn't know what they're doing

It's not just that chambray shirts are more popular now--they have seen a meteoric rise from obscurity to absolute fashionability. That doesn't mean chambray doesn't look good with tweed, just that anyone thinking of dressing in the classic idiom should hesitate before thinking of it as a staple.
post #7 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

It's not just that chambray shirts are more popular now--they have seen a meteoric rise from obscurity to absolute fashionability. That doesn't mean chambray doesn't look good with tweed, just that anyone thinking of dressing in the classic idiom should hesitate before thinking of it as a staple.

OK - I'm not trying to argue for every man owning a chambray shirt, just trying to suggest fabrics that could go well with tweed. FWIW, I do not own anything in chambray, so again, not trying to be a chambray evangelist.

What are opinions on tattersalls and tweeds? I do not have any tattersalls either but I was considering including one in my next shirt order to be worn with tweedy jackets.
post #8 of 9
Tattersall is good.

As for shirt texture, contrast! Smooth patterned shirts are ideal, perhaps with a more textured tie. If everything in the ensemble is screaming to be noticed, it turns into a hot mess. Something has to be a supporting player in terms of texture just like something has to be a supporting player in pattern. They don't have to be the same pieces. A solid grenadine or knit tie can be a supporting piece in regards to color, but an active one with texture. A fairly smooth tattersall shirt can be active in pattern but passive with texture.

Pinpoint oxfords are the roughest I would ever go, unless I was going for a casual look sans tie.
post #9 of 9
Tattersalls 'n' tweed are kith 'n' kin.

I mostly wear buttondowns with tweed, both poplin and OC. Tattersall a close second.

There's something to be said for a plain white shirt with moderate spread collar and a plain dark tie, for that '60s insouciance.
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