*** POTENTIAL REPEATS BELOW SINCE I DIDN'T KEEP UP ***Yohji Yamamoto - Autumn/Winter 2012-2013 Collection
* * *Rick Owens - Autumn/Winter 2012-2013 Collection
An army of vampires with an underground taste hits the runway of Yohji Yamamoto. The Japanese designer for next season wrap his models in multi draperied and hooded garments, mixing black with primary colors to get an outstanding synthesis of colors. The asymmetric dresses traced softley the contours of its wearer, while the structured accordion skirts redesign the women's silhouette graphically. The knitwear pieces and the carefully deconstructed jackets seem to have been realized with large and heavy blankets sewn together, completely surrounding the figure . Although keeping his own aestethic, Yamamoto is constantley innovating his designs, giving us another proof of his immortality.
* * *Glenn Martens - A/W 2012 Presentation, Paris
Rick Owens' ritual is consumed in the middle of a flames circle, where savage impulses are trapped into rigid and sober architectural forms. Like modern Joan of Arc, the models come out from the cellar of a burning castle, wrapped in floor-skimming coats and floating tunics with spiraling seams, hiding their faces under knitted masks. Structured charcoal wool skirts are worn with streamlined garments, while the leather is sculpted into severe cropped jackets with curved shoulders. The luxurious materials are enslaved to a rough aesthetic, producing the raw and visceral elegance that characterizes Owens' designs.
* * *Ann Demeulemeester - Autumn/Winter 2012-2013 Collection
The melancholic elegance of devotional Flemish painting meets the clean lines of Belgian design into Glenn Martens' debut collection. The designer presented his creations during Paris Fashion Week, in a dark and intimate loft space, far from the city's hectic times. The models were like the elegant madonnas of Hans Memling and Jan Van Eyck's triptychs, marching in strict and linear clothes while a baroque music was playing. The pleated column organza dresses were highly shaped but not too rigid, enhancing the graphic vertical cuts. In a game of wide and elongated silhouettes, the deconstructed jackets were paired with clerical inspired tunics and knitwear pieces in ethical recycled wool; while the metallic zippers and the platform sneakers added a sporty look to the collection. Glenn Martens gave an extremely original character to the minimalist aesthetic, blending classic elements with a fresh contemporary taste.
* * *Nicolas Andreas Taralis - Autumn/Winter 2012-2013
The Queen of Antwerp shines in the darkness, infusing a punk spirit in suggestive, timeless garments.
Keeping her sensual androgynous style, Ann Demeulemeester presents a runway of rebellious warriors, in which the Joan of Arc's ferocious passion and the inspirations drawn from the Navajo indian tribe are blended together violent through a violent whirl of sub-culture vibes. The stiffened sculptural leather neckpieces framed the face with their dramatically cut architectural structures. In a sea of black silk asymmetric garments that slip on the body as liquids, a rush of midnight blue strikes strictly linear dresses and draped funnel-necked jackets. Ann's highly poetic and emotional approach to fashion once again does not disappoint, continuing, season after season, to astonish the viewers.
* * *Damir Doma - Autumn/Winter 2012-2013 Collection
Nicolas Andreas Taralis looks at the Japanese feudal periods of Akira Kurosawa's films to design a straightly dark collection for Blade Runner androids. The ancient uniforms of samurai are Taralis' starting point for the construction of sartorially impeccable coats and jackets, bounded on the waist as jujitsu kimonos. The experimentation with cuts leads the designer to extremely asymmetric solutions, such as pieces literally cut in half, perfectly balanced by a game of almost classical proportions. The long black dresses, made of thin and impalpable layers, are trapped by strongly carved jackets, preserving some references to Japanese martial arts as the quilted harness-like straps, but they seem to suggest the dystopian atmosphere of a sci-fi cyberspace. Nicolas Andreas Taralis confirms his highly sober and linear aesthetic, sometimes almost stoic, that never ceases to be a feast for the eyes.
* * *Aganovich - Autumn/Winter 2012-2013 Collection
Damir Doma reinterprets the opulence of Renaissance clothing through his minimal and essential taste. Drawing inspiration mostly from men clothes, he treats the historical reminiscences liberally, proposing bold solutions in a contemporary style. The court of Lorenzo the Magnificent hits the runway with its postmodern knights, wearing botton-front blouse and armor-like quilted leather tabard on top of fur jackets. An elegant noblemen shows off his long velvet coat with an Elizabethan flair, while a large gold cross hangs down on his chest. Gentlemen fit into crossover-waistband pants, perfectley in line both with the sixteenth century's garments and Doma's traditional aesthetic. The modern tailored jackets with leather inserts are paired with ultra-flat pointed slippers. Surfacing from a well of dark texture, the palette lightens through nuances of amber, dark carmine and copper. A burst of bright white, blush and cornelian orange diffuses a new romance throughout. Damir Doma builds a bridge between the two ages, raising the hope of a great renaissance in this crisis times.
Futuristic atmospheres and avant-garde design are mixed with Japanese inspirations into the runway of the Serbian designer Nana Aganovich. Her Autumn / Winter 2012/2013 collection starts as a fantasy in white, sometimes crossed by thin blue lines, in which structured volumes and geometrically shaped technical fabrics seem to come out the door of a galactic spacecraft, momentary landed on earth. Slowly the black gets the control of the palette through optical contrasts, becoming in the end the dominant shade, as if Princess Leila were turned into Darth Vader. But beyond the sci-fi universe, the cutting and the wide proportions are a clear reference to Geisha kimonos. Although the two tendencies were difficult to blend Aganovich result is definetley superbe.