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REMOVING TROUSER PLEATS

post #1 of 47
Thread Starter 
REMOVING TROUSER PLEATS
The edge of the pleat is at one with the front crease on the straight grain of the cloth.
It is not good form to cut trousers at an angle, as they will not hang straight.
Lets keep that in mind.

First step the waist band must be removed. As the main pleat unfolds, it comes out in the direction of the pleats opening.In the reverse pleat, the cloth comes out to the side and the small pleat follows it. See the dotted lines, this is the cloth to be removed.
The pocket of course, must be removed and then replaced.
The waist band is then returned and the crease line remains is its proper position.

The regular pleat unfolds to the front.
This means the entire fly assembly must be removed and then replaced. A more time consuming job.You can see that if the cloth were cut at the side, the crease line would be pulled to the side.
This would be the same as cutting the trouser front at an angle, and we know thats not good.
So much for the main pleat.
the small forward pleat would be unfolded to the side. this means redoing the pocket also.

On the reverse pleats, both pleats are cut off at the side.at the same time. Less labor time.
This is why removing reverse pleats is more practical.
img013.jpg
post #2 of 47
I'm afraid your picture isn't showing up.

I recommend imgur.com
post #3 of 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenTribe View Post

I'm afraid your picture isn't showing up.
I recommend imgur.com

+1, would like to see this
post #4 of 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenTribe View Post

I recommend imgur.com

No need for image hosts any more, you can use upload an image directly from your computer to the StyleForum server. One of the few good things about the new forum software.
post #5 of 47
Nice post. I have several pairs that I am planning on taking to my tailor soon.

BTW, is this a complex job? Assuming a capable tailor, should a good result be assured or is this a risky undertaking?
Edited by cbbuff - 1/14/12 at 4:33am
post #6 of 47
Thanks for this, Alex.
How do you feel about darts replacing pleats? Two darts would look strange. One might not be too bad.
Also, if pants have two shallow pleats, is it possible to change them into one deep pleat?
post #7 of 47
Best way to remove trouser pleats are a new pair of trousers.

Alex's way, though, is probably second best.

Alex, how about converting zip fly to button fly? I ask because someone else will eventually.
post #8 of 47
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum View Post

No need for image hosts any more, you can use upload an image directly from your computer to the StyleForum server. One of the few good things about the new forum software.

thanks sanguis
that will be a big help. but what is the procedure ?
post #9 of 47
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbbuff View Post

Nice post. I have several pairs that I am planning on taking to my tailor soon.
BTW, is this a complex job? Assuming a capable tailor, should a good result be assured or is this a risky undertaking?

hi cbbuff
yes, capable is the key word.
but no matter who you use, accidents can happen to anyone.
post #10 of 47
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

Thanks for this, Alex.
How do you feel about darts replacing pleats? Two darts would look strange. One might not be too bad.
Also, if pants have two shallow pleats, is it possible to change them into one deep pleat?

darts are used to reduce a measurement, or to create fullness.
replacing the pleats with darts does not reduce the cloth at the hip level, it is still there.
what would happen is that there would be a bulge of cloth on the trouser front.
it would match the bulge that fits the seat in back. that is the result of the dart or darts in back.

make two shallow pleats into one? i havent tried that one but its possible. dont know if it would work out smoothly.
post #11 of 47
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

Best way to remove trouser pleats are a new pair of trousers.
Alex's way, though, is probably second best.
Alex, how about converting zip fly to button fly? I ask because someone else will eventually.

WHAT WHAT? second best? LOL

zip to button? yes. also button to zip, yes.
post #12 of 47
^Thanks, Alex. I have a pair of old Air Force pants that were my uncle's. They have a single forward pleat on the crease and a dart between that and the pocket. He gave them to me when I was in high school and I wore them through that and college. Then I had some pants made in the mid 90's in the same style. They fit really well. In the late 90's I switched to flat fronts. The past few years, my has preference switched back to a single forward pleat. I hadn't thought about darts till recently, when I saw Patrick Chu of Chan wearing flat fronts with a single dart, maybe an inch forward of the side pockets. I asked about it and he said it was for those w/ large hips and/or seats. He said that if they made me flat front pants, I'd probably benefit from it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

Best way to remove trouser pleats are a new pair of trousers.
Alex's way, though, is probably second best.
Alex, how about converting zip fly to button fly? I ask because someone else will eventually.
I agree with you for the most part. My questions are basically academic. The experiences above made me think I should mention those possibilities here to add to the options available to people. I don't think I've ever had anything done to pants except have the lower legs tapered a bit and the hems cuffed. Even having the waist taken in or let out scares me. But I could understand someone having a affinity for a particular pair, such as part of a suit, and wanting them altered. For the vast majority of pants, it probably isn't worth the time, money and risk that the pants won't turn out right.
post #13 of 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by a tailor View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum View Post

No need for image hosts any more, you can use upload an image directly from your computer to the StyleForum server. One of the few good things about the new forum software.

thanks sanguis
that will be a big help. but what is the procedure ?

Click the 'Add Image' button then go to the 'Browse Computer' tab then click the button and choose the file on your computer. Make sure to tick 'Save a copy to my default album' and the image will be uploaded to the SF servers. You can also tick this when entering the URL to an image on another server, and it will be copied to the SF server.
post #14 of 47
Out of curiosity what could one expect to pay to have this done?
post #15 of 47
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

^Thanks, Alex. I have a pair of old Air Force pants that were my uncle's. They have a single forward pleat on the crease and a dart between that and the pocket. He gave them to me when I was in high school and I wore them through that and college. Then I had some pants made in the mid 90's in the same style. They fit really well. In the late 90's I switched to flat fronts. The past few years, my has preference switched back to a single forward pleat. I hadn't thought about darts till recently, when I saw Patrick Chu of Chan wearing flat fronts with a single dart, maybe an inch forward of the side pockets. I asked about it and he said it was for those w/ large hips and/or seats. He said that if they made me flat front pants, I'd probably benefit from it.
I agree with you for the most part. My questions are basically academic. The experiences above made me think I should mention those possibilities here to add to the options available to people. I don't think I've ever had anything done to pants except have the lower legs tapered a bit and the hems cuffed. Even having the waist taken in or let out scares me. But I could understand someone having a affinity for a particular pair, such as part of a suit, and wanting them altered. For the vast majority of pants, it probably isn't worth the time, money and risk that the pants won't turn out right.

those uniforms were made from the toughest woolens. no longer made in the u s a.
chu of chan is right, that side dart creates fullness at the bottom of the dart.
and thats where its needed for the wide hips and/or prominent seats.
it also helps to keep flat front pants from having gaping side pockets.

the side pleat on pleated pants is in reality a side dart that has been opened.
if you would remove the lengthwise stitches on a dart., what you have is a pleat.


here is an edit.
there is a source for military woolens in the USA . its "Hamburger Woolen co".
they sell uniforms and equipment, but also sell military woolens.
i do know that they sell small cuts of wool. dont know if to tailors only or to public.
the woolens may be made in the USA or overseas.
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