Getting an Overcoat Made

Haven't jumped into this realm yet, will do now with some 'scarole I saved up over the fall. I'd like something Neapolitan but suffice for a New York City winter. I have a fabric picked out, a rustic vintage tweed from Scabal, as I'm mostly in textured fabrics, so I was wondering if you guys could chime in with ideas, or even better, pictures of possible styles for me. There are of course the pics of Luca Rubinacci in Milan this fall, but I fear the low cut of his db won't be very practical in NYC.


I remember seeing a picture of a dude wearing a pretty bold glen plaid db that was a 3 roll 2 that I liked a lot, but can't seem to find it now.

Anyway, would love for you guys to chime in...

I'm very interested in this too. Can I ask where you were planning to have it made? What is the most best option for someone in the Northeast to have an overcoat made? (More specifically: Is it silly to have a traveling Hong Kong tailor make it if I can get in only the initial measurements? Would having someone local do it be very expensive?) I'm also interested to see examples of various styles.

I've always and only have used Frank at Ercoles in Brooklyn. From what I've heard from other clients, he is on par with some of the best in the world, but I've not had the vast experience some of these guys have. If you can get to NY, I'd see him.

david123 said:

I'm very interested in this too. Can I ask where you were planning to have it made? What is the most best option for someone in the Northeast to have an overcoat made? (More specifically: Is it silly to have a traveling Hong Kong tailor make it if I can get in only the initial measurements? Would having someone local do it be very expensive?) I'm also interested to see examples of various styles.

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Rob,

I really like this...

Rob, just as an aside here...were you able to put the money away largely due to the savings earned by not buying razors all year?

While the pictures haven't all made it, etutee (all his posts are a treasure) has some excellent reviews of material from AA that you should consider using in your quest.

http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=5433&start=0
http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=5148


I seem to recall another post(s) that dealt with describing all the various overcoats and their basic stylistic features. Can't remember if that was here or LL.

I don't know if you suffer from the cold the same as I do now that I'm into the second half of my first century but I found this gray herringbone Brooks Brothers overcoat on the left with a high buttoning point for the top button and have found it to be much more protective against the elements, especially when used in conjunction with a woolen scarf. The cashmere blend on the right is also quite comfortable for a DB.







My point is that your weather, just 3 driving hours north of me is the same if not worse. Anything dramatically stylish and open such as the pictures in your OP would be unwearable for me in any temps below 40 degrees F. I'd hate to think that I had commissioned one of the greatest pieces of clothing of my life only to learn that it would fail to perform its primary function.

It may be that you're young enough that you will commission several such coats over the course of your life but I think I'd approach this as if it were a "first suit". Make this your centerpiece and then let your own style direct you if you decide to have more made. Project yourself 30 or so years into the future and ask yourself what you think you'd be wearing at that point and let that perspective help guide your choice.

Or not.



Digmenow said:

I don't know if you suffer from the cold the same as I do now that I'm into the second half of my first century but I found this gray herringbone Brooks Brothers overcoat on the left with a high buttoning point for the top button and have found it to be much more protective against the elements, especially when used in conjunction with a woolen scarf. The cashmere blend on the right is also quite comfortable for a DB.

My point is that your weather, just 3 driving hours north of me is the same if not worse. Anything dramatically stylish and open such as the pictures in your OP would be unwearable for me in any temps below 40 degrees F. I'd hate to think that I had commissioned one of the greatest pieces of clothing of my life only to learn that it would fail to perform its primary function.
It may be that you're young enough that you will commission several such coats over the course of your life but I think I'd approach this as if it were a "first suit". Make this your centerpiece and then let your own style direct you if you decide to have more made. Project yourself 30 or so years into the future and ask yourself what you think you'd be wearing at that point and let that perspective help guide your choice.
Or not.

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You hit my thoughts right on the head dig...I do plan on getting 2 more made eventually, but this one needs to be versatile in terms of comfort and wearability. I know the fabric I'm choosing will certainly not be considered versatile my most here, but for me, my style and what I wear, it is. I don't need a "city" dress coat in my line of work or lifestyle. I wish I could find that picture I saw, it was a 3 roll 2 grey glenn plaid coat that was perfect for what want/need. Thought it was someone at Pitti last year, but it may not have been.



NewYorkRanger said:

Haven't jumped into this realm yet, will do now with some 'scarole I saved up over the fall. I'd like something Neapolitan but suffice for a New York City winter. I have a fabric picked out, a rustic vintage tweed from Scabal, as I'm mostly in textured fabrics, so I was wondering if you guys could chime in with ideas, or even better, pictures of possible styles for me. There are of course the pics of Luca Rubinacci in Milan this fall, but I fear the low cut of his db won't be very practical in NYC.

I remember seeing a picture of a dude wearing a pretty bold glen plaid db that was a 3 roll 2 that I liked a lot, but can't seem to find it now.
Anyway, would love for you guys to chime in...

Click to expand...

Rob, I recently bought a heavy low-cut db overcoat for dressier occasions, and what I do is unfold the lapels and turn up the collar to gain full protection from winter weather. It's not been tested in brutally cold weather, yet, because it's been a mild winter so far, but I think it'll do the job



JayJay said:

Rob, I recently bought a heavy low-cut db overcoat for dressier occasions, and what I do is unfold the lapels and turn up the collar to gain full protection from winter weather. It's not been tested in brutally cold weather, yet, because it's been a mild winter so far, but I think it'll do the job

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I just don't think that will work for me, my walk to work is about a mile and a half, and while the "tuck" may be good for a short distance, between my shoulder bag and the walk I think I need something that requires less "attention". I see the lapels popping out every few blocks or so. Down the road, I cerainly will go for a coat like that (ala Luca's in my first post) but first I need something more utilitarian. I'm leaning towards a guard's coat with a third button rolled that can be used when its real cold, but elegently roll to two when its milder.

http://davidetaub.blogspot.com/2011/03/military-style-winter-warm-great-coat.html

From:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/265053/bespoke-great-coat

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Thanks for posting this:
http://davidetaub.blogspot.com/2011/03/military-style-winter-warm-great-coat.html

Its what I'm going with...

It looks beautiful but its not the most versatile style out there. Maybe nice for a 2nd or 3rd OC, but I wouldn't pick this as my first.



NewYorkRanger said:

Thanks for posting this:
http://davidetaub.blogspot.com/2011/03/military-style-winter-warm-great-coat.html
Its what I'm going with...

Click to expand...

It suits your style. I look forward to seeing the finished product. Ercole making it up for you?