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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 63

post #931 of 5741
I know it's morbid and maybe insulting to discuss an aesthetic that complements the mood of a funeral, but since you brought it up, I think that yohji's work is is very calm, introspective, and sensitive and I think it's the perfect attire to attend a funeral.


On a totally unrelated note. What size does yohji yamamoto L in pants correlate to? 48? pretty please.
post #932 of 5741
Thread Starter 
Hi Magic1, an L is generally equivalent to a 50. Have a look at the sizing write-up I put in the OP, should be some help.
post #933 of 5741
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magic1 View Post

I know it's morbid and maybe insulting to discuss an aesthetic that complements the mood of a funeral, but since you brought it up, I think that yohji's work is is very calm, introspective, and sensitive and I think it's the perfect attire to attend a funeral.


On a totally unrelated note. What size does yohji yamamoto L in pants correlate to? 48? pretty please.


I dont think it's insulting at all. Hence why i chose it, like I said, he loved what I wore when I used to visit him in hospital. Real progressive chap that legend was

We did a traditional buddhist ceremony and my coat was catching the soft wind as I was carrying his ashes up the hill to our family plot... everything was beautiful.
post #934 of 5741
Thread Starter 
I think Yohji's clothing definitely lends itself very well to such poignant moments which is why I guess it also does so well in all the black and white photos that have been taken over the decades showing people with faces full of personality and situations that invoke a quietness. Yohji himself seems filled with an awareness of his own mortality and it probably is partly what informs the aura of calm that he and his clothing tends to exude.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
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My condolences to you and your family Bob and may his soul rest in peace.
post #935 of 5741
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lionheart Biker View Post

Iwvri, I thought I had the same prorsum sandals as you, but mine don´t have those "high" straps. And those are also not the ones with the zipper down the middle, right? I thought burberry, in that SS 11 collection had only 2 different pairs, the ones I have Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
350x233px-LL-61a63748_BurberryProrsum.jpeg

and the aforementioned with the zipper

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But yours are neither, right?

Yeah, the zipper version were runway only I believe and seemed to be pretty difficult to get a hold of. I picked mine up from their webstore and they look like this -
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
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post #936 of 5741
Thread Starter 
The Y's Spring-Summer 2012 collection lookbook is online now so I thought I would share pictures.

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All images are from fashion press (found via)


I quite like this. A few echoes of the mainline Spring collection for women, but the prints, shoes and use of layering in the lookbook are what are really standing out to me. A lot of the silhouettes are familiar from past Y's and even mainline collections I have seen so nothing too innovative, but I guess that's not what Y's as a line is really for anyway. Besides, the Yohji universe is one that is constantly being iterated upon so one should always expect riffs and echoes of past themes and looks.

I think I will look into this more for getting my wife into Yohji. She likes colours AND prints so this will probably be an easier sell to her (also helps that Y's is cheaper than mainline). smile.gif.
post #937 of 5741
Thread Starter 
Random images -

Synchronicity or inspiration? Jan van Eyck, The Arnolfini portrait, 1434 (detail) and Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme Autumn/Winter 2012-2013

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And speaking of coincidence -

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Page from the book Pants: A History Afoot. Yohji is #13 and Issey Miyake is #11. You can see Yohji's face so clearly in his baby picture its great!

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Some vintage Yohji. No idea what year though.

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Compilation of some promotional photos by Max Vadukul for Yohji

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Peace out -

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post #938 of 5741
Haha little Yohji is adorable. Issey wins though.
post #939 of 5741
So Yohji already practised his end of the runway show post with the hat since he was a little boy smile.gif
post #940 of 5741
Quote:
Originally Posted by thatoneguy View Post

ok who bought this ffffuuuu.gif

:-D i happened to see caveat's post probably as he typed it, so I just grabbed it. nice casual loop collar shirt in a soft but thick flannel. way, way too big for me. size M but 50+" chest. if anyone else is interested, pm me. edit: someone nabbed it. thanks.
yohji oversized flannel shirt (Click to show)
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Edited by Parker - 4/11/12 at 5:20pm
post #941 of 5741
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidlee388 View Post

So Yohji already practised his end of the runway show post with the hat since he was a little boy smile.gif

Haha! Indeed smile.gif.

On a side note, I just finished watching the movie Pina by Wim Wenders and it was amazing. A lot of the clothing/costuming looked like it could have been designed by Yohji himself and the movement of the dancers was really inspiring and thought provoking. I would gush about the movie more, but don't want to go too off-topic. Hehe. Suffice to say, if you can see it in the cinema do so. Or pick it up on bluray or dvd. The music was beautiful as well, definitely picking up the album now.

I can really see why Yohji would do an entire collection dedicated to/inspired by Pina Bausch. To want to make anything that evoked even something of what she was able to accomplish with her dance troupe and her choreography would be enough inspiration to make one attempt all sorts of things.

It also got me thinking about what would happen to Yohji Yamamoto Inc. once Yohji retires. Watching Pina's dancers going through her routines in different locales and re-interpreting her love of natural elements and intense emotions made me realise that at least in their own field, at the very worst, they could keep on performing those same routines with slight modifications for a while longer. They are amazing to watch and they are all very talented individuals that have been working with each other for years. Pina Bausch died before Wim Wenders began shooting for the movie and they were still able to release something quite powerful.

I am pretty sure Yohji has enough assistants that he could hand over the creative duties to, and could basically continue to walk on the path he has set, going through the motions that he choreographed over the three decades he has been working, but I wonder whether it would be enough. Unlike dance, most fashion houses could not get away releasing the exact same designs with modifications to just fabric or possibly button positioning etc. season after season. Could anybody else capture what it is that makes Yohji's clothing and designs so unique and expressive? Would the designs have that same aura that quite a few Yohji lovers are drawn to? Or is it all a cult of personality based around Yohji and dependent on his remaining at the helm?

Would it be better to have someone come with a different angle completely from what Yohji had? Maybe they could distill the essence of the brand into a completely different form that would probably in turn generate new shapes and silhouettes. Create clothing that still has, for want of a better word, soul?

EDIT - That shirt really looks nice Parker, shame about the sizing.
post #942 of 5741
I think these are very interesting questions that are very hard to answer. Didn't we discuss this over PM before? Can't remember atm...

But to start with the most obvious and boring statement - I would like to see it go on IF that is Yohji himself wants. I'm not sure whether he feels that the brand itself is too connected to him as a person/creator, or if he wants his legacy to live on in the hands of whoever he deems fit for the job.

The sad thing is that it's probably not up to him. Consider that he was actually thinking about qutting at the very end of the 00's, and then the whole bankruptcy affair happened right after that. It's true that he felt it was worth fighting for the house to stay alive, and not just call it quits at the time, but realistically he probably won't be able to be in full charge of designing 4 collection every year for many more years to come. The investors, however, are probably looking to make their money back and keep the brand alive for as long as they can keep selling stuff.

As for the designer who would possibly take the helm of this ship, that is pretty much a lose-lose situation. No matter how successfully he or she will translate his/her own vision into the history of the brand there will always be that discrepancy between the creator and the customers vision of what the brand is or should be. People will just react to collections differently just because someone else is doing them. I can think of a handful collections in the last few years that - if they were designed entirely by someone else - would be considered just bleak copies of his work. I can even see how SS12, which was pretty much univerally liked or respected (form what I can tell), would garner comments like "too literal japanese references, Yohji wouldn't do that" or "just a ss04 copy" or whatever. It's gonna be hard no matter what.

I would love to hear what Yohji thinks of this, if anyone has read interviews where this topic was brought up? I also wonder how hierachical the day-to-day design work is, if it historically all came from Yohji and his patterener(s) or if a lot of the ideas also eminated from the atelier group. I'm sure the studio is very competent, and obviously they will still have all the workshops and factories involved still. However, with a studio effort, would we just get SS10 all over again?

And then for completely selfish reasons, the positive thing I can think of if the brand continues after Yohji's time is that no matter the quality of the new stuff, people will be pre-occupied with buying whatever's on the racks and I can keep picking up greatness from eras past without as much competition. shog[1].gif


Really need to see Pina btw, thanks for reminding me! I completely missed it when it was shown in the cinemas here.
post #943 of 5741

Asobu put it very well there. Many people, I'm afraid me included, will always question the " authenticity " of the clothes created by his successor after his retirement. Obviously Yohji doesn't design every garment of every collection, the important thing is he has a design team to realise his vision. Also he had appeared in 99% of his runway shows so he is perceived to be in charge of the staging of the shows, the choice of models and the looks. So at least the pieces on the runway have his seal of approval.

 

It's particularly sad for me to see him go eventually, and I seem to be stuck in a time warp, but I am more drawn to his creations of the yesteryears, the roomier silhouette, the humor and the groundbreaking concepts of some pieces. So there is no denying the return of some of his greatness from recent offerings, particularly SS11 and SS12, his true greatness was behind him imho. The 2nd hand market is still a great place to find great YY vintage pieces to satiate our craving of things bearing his label. 

post #944 of 5741
when he retires you can claim youve got "OG Yohji" and not the new stuff laugh.gif

i was just reading a recent Helmut Lang interview about his art and the legacy he left.
post #945 of 5741
Thread Starter 
Yeah, it's definitely a very valid point you guys raise about whether his successor will be able to ever get out from under his shadow. Look at what Kris Van Assche is suffering at Dior Homme and Hedi Slimane has not been working in fashion nearly as long as Yohji has. I guess in a way I would prefer the house to go on, but primarily if the entire thing changed in the look of the clothing. Maybe the mainline could be collapsed to producing only re-issues of classic pieces from his history and then another label (Y's?) could then become the main line with a focus on a designer with a really strong vision. The only requirements being that that zen spirit and anti-fashion sensibility be carried on.

Not sure whether I can express it better, but yeah, something like that I think I would be happy with. Of course, if Yohji himself wanted his line to continue under his name and named a successor, I would definitely not be against that at all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by snowmanxl View Post

when he retires you can claim youve got "OG Yohji" and not the new stuff laugh.gif
i was just reading a recent Helmut Lang interview about his art and the legacy he left.

Lol. Well, there is that too. Looking forward to giving my son and/or daughter some "OG Yohji" pieces at some point icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
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