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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 61

post #901 of 4925
4/6/12 at 2:50am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by elephantstone View Post

I guess it's a bit much to ask the designers to pass down the savings to customers?? I have the same mentality problem when buying stuff from Ann D...Most of her garments are now produced in Portugal, Poland Morocco etc instead of Belgium and Italy. Price is still exorbitantly high yet quality has dropped drastically in the past few years....I just hope same thing won't happen to Yohji......  

Pricing is always a touchy issue, but I believe that when most designers move production, even if they are getting better prices, passing them on to consumers might inadvertently send the wrong message to a lot of people. A price drop might be associated with a drop in quality as well and no one wants that for their brand. Another thing is that moving production facilities might also be done out of necessity as opposed to just a desire to increase profits. If they moved production in order to be able to meet their running costs better and ensure they continue to grow as a business, passing on the savings they make won't help them.

Drops in quality from a high end brand are unacceptable though and there really should be more steps taken to tighten quality control at a lot of these brands. In my own experience though, all of the Yohji clothing I have are definitely very high quality and I don't see any difference between stuff from 2006 and items I have from SS12.
Edited by Ivwri - 4/6/12 at 3:32am
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post #902 of 4925
4/6/12 at 3:25am
Here are some of the intense and meticulate processes Yohji uses, and one of the reasons for a few pieces having much higher prices.

http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/y/processes-techniques/
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post #903 of 4925
4/6/12 at 7:14am
Yohji's pricing has been shifting a bit over the last few years. AW08 and SS09 - the latter in particular I believe - were priced comparatively high even in Japan. I think the fabrics and some of the more work-load heavy deconstruction/embroidery/application themes in SS09 drove up the costs. For SS10 - which was a sort of Y's / YYPH amalgamation studio collection with less detailed work involved - there was a noticable shift towards slightly lower prices on average but from SS11 and forward it has moved up again, and possibly even higher than the last few collections of 00's

While some knits have been Made in China in the last few years, 95% of the collection is still made in Japan and the MIC stuff is definitely not inferior in quality from what I have seen, nor has it been the cheaper stuff of the collection. Still, a lot of hardcore Japanese customers have been responding negatively to this trend and has abstained from buying things they like because it was MIC. These are probably a very vocal minority online though.

Sort of tangentally related, crouka (who knows everything worth knowing about japanese fashion) posted this on SZ and I thought it was kinda funny:
Quote:
Y's was the original name. then, when he started to show and sell his stuff overseas he had to make up another because in those days Y reminded some people outside of japan too much of YSL. that way, eventually, the difference in character became clearer. you can easily see the difference if you check the collections already released.

it could be described in various ways [...] but in a way Y's...more manufacturer friendly and YY...more manufacturer exhausting (almost harassment).

at one time, the delivery of YYPH was extremely delayed because of the difficulty in production.
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post #904 of 4925
4/6/12 at 8:04am

Yohji is visiting China these days, here is a interview from China Daily. 

http://usa.chinadaily.com.cn/epaper/2012-04/05/content_14983263.htm

0DC3302D60693CE0DB02CE8BD1900F42.jpg7D7E973C237377278AE024C49E7318BE.jpg8E15CF9C96FA570E5117F4709B1EC0BC.jpg51ECF71180FFCD5E5AD539359A3985D8.jpg

 

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post #905 of 4925
4/6/12 at 8:08am

in 2008 Yohji also gave his Y's show in Beijing. For me, it's a combination of y3,y's,yyph and some typical sparks of his works.

 

here are the photos

http://women.sohu.com/s2008/yohjiyamamoto/ Img256676044.jpg

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post #906 of 4925
4/6/12 at 8:26am

http://fashion.eladies.sina.com.cn/industry/2012/0328/220029769.shtml

 

 

 

this is another interview in chinese and i will pick up and translate some points.

 

 

Ask:　Why you want choose to make cloth and build your own label?

Yohji: in a word, i do not want to be office worker, to be a small part of the society. I am happy to do things i like.

 

A：there are too much fast fashion, how do you think about it.

Y: i don't think that fast fashion is "bad". Young generation have their own rights to enjoy the fast fashion, then they will know what they actually want.　

　

A：What about your understanding of the relationship between fashion and art

Y：If design wants to be “art”，it will be more difficult. Fashion has to be finished with business, in consider with the market. Making fashion is more hard than pure art to deal with.　　

 

A: any young designer you like?

Y: I likes Alexander McQueen a lot. talented, but passed away, what a pity. 　　

 

A: when will catch any ideas for your design?

Y：from reading and some movies, and when i drive, it is also a good time for inspiration. 　　

　

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post #907 of 4925
4/6/12 at 8:40am
Even some YY shoes are now made in China, the AW11 Monkey Boots I have are an example. Wonder if they are made along the same production line as Y-3? Someone already remarked the quality of YY foottwear of past seasons wasn't the best, will this MIC phenomenon drive quality even further downwards?
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post #908 of 4925
4/6/12 at 9:30am

For some reason a post I had made earlier was deleted by the mods... Oh well, here we go again.

 

I have seen some of the MIC and MIJ pieces from the ss11 collection that were exactly the same. Some of the knit short/pants were made in both places, using the same fabrics (and charging the same price). There was really no discernible difference in quality, although I can understand why hardcore fans would be disappointed. I find it a bit hypocritical myself, in that he has been such a strong proponent of making his stuff in Japan.

 

On another note, it was requested that I post a few pics of my aw07 "anime" knits. Here goes:

 

042-3.jpg

 

044-3.jpg

 

045-2.jpg

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post #909 of 4925
4/6/12 at 11:00am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by xumatrix View Post

http://fashion.eladies.sina.com.cn/industry/2012/0328/220029769.shtml

this is another interview in chinese and i will pick up and translate some points.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Ask:　Why you want choose to make cloth and build your own label?



Yohji: in a word, i do not want to be office worker, to be a small part of the society. I am happy to do things i like.



 



A：there are too much fast fashion, how do you think about it.



Y: i don't think that fast fashion is "bad". Young generation have their own rights to enjoy the fast fashion, then they will know what they actually want.　



　



A：What about your understanding of the relationship between fashion and art



Y：If design wants to be “art”，it will be more difficult. Fashion has to be finished with business, in consider with the market. Making fashion is more hard than pure art to deal with.　　



 



A: any young designer you like?



Y: I likes Alexander McQueen a lot. talented, but passed away, what a pity. 　　



 



A: when will catch any ideas for your design?



Y：from reading and some movies, and when i drive, it is also a good time for inspiration. 　　



　


Thanks for the translation and the other posts xumatrix.
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidlee388 View Post

Even some YY shoes are now made in China, the AW11 Monkey Boots I have are an example. Wonder if they are made along the same production line as Y-3? Someone already remarked the quality of YY foottwear of past seasons wasn't the best, will this MIC phenomenon drive quality even further downwards?

Well, from what I understand from people I know who are doing business in China. Chinese production runs the whole gamut from absolute crap to top of the line quality, just depends on what one is willing to pay for I guess. Just like most places. I hope that Yohji himself will keep the new owners to a high quality standard.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stadsvandringar View Post

For some reason a post I had made earlier was deleted by the mods... Oh well, here we go again.

I have seen some of the MIC and MIJ pieces from the ss11 collection that were exactly the same. Some of the knit short/pants were made in both places, using the same fabrics (and charging the same price). There was really no discernible difference in quality, although I can understand why hardcore fans would be disappointed. I find it a bit hypocritical myself, in that he has been such a strong proponent of making his stuff in Japan.

On another note, it was requested that I post a few pics of my aw07 "anime" knits. Here goes:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
350x263px-LL-bff11e18_042-3.jpeg

350x263px-LL-b19a721b_044-3.jpeg

350x263px-LL-d671c487_045-2.jpeg

Thanks for posting these pics stadsvandringar! The patterns look great and would be very nice peeking out from under a coat I imagine. The Skull Man one looks excellent, but I really like the patterns on the arm of the first one (what anime/manga character is that by the way?). Really cool seeing standalone shots of Yohji pieces instead of just seeing them on the runway. Maybe more of you guys with great Yohji pieces from past collections especially should put up a few more pics whenever you all have the time icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif


I think Yohji producing some stuff in China is still within reason especially if producing in Japan is becoming a bit too expensive to make complete business sense. The new investors must also be watching the bottom line pretty closely I wager. Also I think something like the SS12 collection must have been primarily produced in Japan with all the traditional silk prints and so on. With all the work he has given Japanese craftspeople over the 3 decades, I think he should be allowed a little bit of "flirting" with foreign production smile.gif. It is also nice to see that Sino-Japanese tension is not keeping him from visiting the country and using their services.
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post #910 of 4925
4/6/12 at 11:17am

You've got me on the characters... I am definitely not an anime or manga enthusiast. I did recognize kamen rider from the collection, but that was about it. However, I believe all of the anime stuff from this collection was a collaboration with Shintaro Ishinomori of Ishimori productions: http://en.ishimoripro.com/


Edited by stadsvandringar - 4/6/12 at 12:15pm
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post #911 of 4925
4/6/12 at 11:22am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by stadsvandringar View Post

You've got me on the characters... I am definitely not an anime or manga enthusiast. I did recognize kamen rider from the collection, but that was about it. However, I believe all of the anime stuff from this collection was a collaboration with Shintaro Ishinomori of Ishimori productions: http://en.ishimoripro.com/index2.php.

Ah, that explains all the Super Sentai stuff. It is probably Kamen Rider related as well. Thanks for that bit of info.
Edited by Ivwri - 4/6/12 at 12:51pm
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post #912 of 4925
4/6/12 at 1:07pm
I NEED DESIGNER KAMEN RIDER SWEATERS
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post #913 of 4925
4/6/12 at 1:22pm
I am in the hunt for the Masked Rider knit definitely.

The Skull Man knit is also very nice, the character is on the back of the jumper ( check on YYPH AW07 thread ).
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post #914 of 4925
4/6/12 at 1:48pm

New grail item found... Now just have to search all over the web for one.

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post #915 of 4925
4/6/12 at 2:20pm
i think those anime knits are a good example of something you CANNOT work into an otherwise slim-fitting wardrobe. you really need the volume on the bottom as well.
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