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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 48

post #706 of 5751
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

And now for some more ladies:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

Pretty sure this is an SS09 blazer.
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This is also a lady! But she wears YYPH, and yeah, that organza blazer is from SS09. Very nice fit. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

AW11 shirt/jacket hybrid. Not sure what pants those are, but I want them!
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This is also fantastic. I wonder if those pants are Yohji. Possibly ss04 I guess!
post #707 of 5751
Thread Starter 
Haha! I thought as much, but then I wasn't sure. She looks very good and I guess she took the whole idea of Yohji saying he wanted to put women in mens clothing and ran with it.

EDIT: Could the pants from the pic be AW09? Pretty sure I saw some pretty baggy cropped pants in that collection as well.


Also,

Do it Unc!
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
HENSHIN!
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post #708 of 5751
hahaha "henshin." you're really paying attention to me :P

i dunno, i really cannot afford to get into yohji right now ... already in the middle of an aesthetic transformation. but i mean i'd be happy to try it out.
post #709 of 5751
Thread Starter 
True that. I am very curious to see what people think of the clothes when they try them on though - would be nice to compare notes. Pictures would also be great for the thread, but I know a lot of boutiques are funny about that so...

Also, I pay attention cos it seems we like a lot of the same things inlove.gif.
post #710 of 5751
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

Haha! I thought as much, but then I wasn't sure. She looks very good and I guess she took the whole idea of Yohji saying he wanted to put women in mens clothing and ran with it.
EDIT: Could the pants from the pic be AW09? Pretty sure I saw some pretty baggy cropped pants in that collection as well.

Hehe, when I was in London there was an older woman there who tried on a bunch of YYPH and looked great.

Yeah, i think they could be AW09 as well, those are the two seasons that featured hakama type pants more prominently.
post #711 of 5751
Thread Starter 
Been meaning to ask this and keep forgetting. Anyone know what boots Yohji is wearing at the end of the YYPH SS2012 show?

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Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
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post #712 of 5751
I have a Yohji shirt for sale, may I post it in this thread as it might be of interest to some of you here? Or would that be against the rules?
post #713 of 5751
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

Been meaning to ask this and keep forgetting. Anyone know what boots Yohji is wearing at the end of the YYPH SS2012 show?
282 Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
524

Think they are YYPH boots from past season. Saw them on Y! a while ago ( sold already so don't have the link ) for something like 30k yen. Not 100% sure though, asobu can correct me if I'm wrong.
 

 

post #714 of 5751
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

Been meaning to ask this and keep forgetting. Anyone know what boots Yohji is wearing at the end of the YYPH SS2012 show?
282 Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
524
They may be YYPH monkeys by Bruno Bordese
post #715 of 5751
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by acecow View Post

I have a Yohji shirt for sale, may I post it in this thread as it might be of interest to some of you here? Or would that be against the rules?

You can certainly post a link to your sales thread if you want. Interestingly enough shah already popped by here to ask for advice on whether or not he should pick up the shirt.

***

Thought I would share some reading I was doing on hakama pants. Turns out Yohji really covered quite a few of the variations of hakama that existed in Japanese culture. Even the chaps might have been inspired by the original hakama design as opposed to Western chaps as originally thought (even the price list calls them Hakama cover pants). Apparently many ancient hakama used to be designed with no crotch (the seam there would be left unclosed). In hakama with a smaller number of pleats or those that were not as full, the crotch would be closed with overlapping gussets making a fly or a single gusset which would be stitched closed. This was so the wearer didn't have to untie the entire hakama in order to relieve himself. Maybe Yohji decided to keep the crotch off and extrapolate that to modern day abstractions of traditional chaps? There's also the possibility that he based his cover pants on the traditional uwabakama
Quote:
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This is the most formal of hakama, worn as part of the sokutai (under both the ketteki no hô and hoeki no hô). The name means “over pants” and can also be read “Ue no hakama.“

It is always white (its other name being “shirobakama,” or “white hakama”), and always lined in unpatterned kurenai silk. The lining always shows around the edges of the ties, and at the hems.

Unlike conventional hakama, the ties are not pared front and back; rather, there is but one long waist tie, and the front is permanently attached to the back at the right and left sides, as the actual opening is up the front, which is covered by the joining “fly.” The waist tie overlaps at the front, and is tied closed at the right side, with the excess of the waist ties thrust into the pant leg. This is the opposite of the ôguchi, which is worn under this garment.

The uwabakama is totally open along the crotch; in fact, it is almost two separate garments — a left leg and a right leg — joined at the center back. There is a long, solid panel that runs up between the legs. Each leg is two widths of cloth, making this a four-panel hakama.

The standard pattern for the imperial family, kugyô, and others with permission to wear “forbidden colors” is ka ni arare. The actual motif inside the “ka” (the island, so to speak) varied. Sometimes it was a karahana, mukaichô, kiku, etc. Those below the rank of denjôbito wear unpatterned white uwabakama when the occasion arrises to wear them.

more here.

The idea of wearing silk underwear underneath hakamas is also something that was (is?) also done in traditional Japanese culture -
Quote:
This is also called “shita no hakama,” and is a light-weight, unlined, and generally unpleated hakama worn under other hakama (especially sashinuki and other more formal garments) as a sort of underwear. It keeps persperation from the more expensive or more showy fabric of the hakama. The ôguchi, worn under the uwabakama, is one example. Shitabakama were commonly worn up through the Edo period.

Generally, they were of plain silk, although at times they might also be a brocade. Summer weight models were plain silk. Shitabakama were either kurenai, kiiro, or white, although traditionally those worn by the elderly were always white.

more here.

More links -

Excerpt from a book on Japanese martial traditions.

Short Nippon-Kichi article on the Hakama.


Some traditional hakama and their analogues in the Spring 2012 collection -
Tattsuke Bakama (Click to show)
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520

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Sashinuki (Click to show)
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Uwabakama (Click to show)
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post #716 of 5751
wow Ivwri this thread never fails to interest and inform me!
post #717 of 5751
Interesting research on the Hakamas biggrin.gif

The monkey boots Yohji wore could be YYPH by Bruno Bordese?
post #718 of 5751
wow, thanks a lot Ivrwi for this exposé on hakamas! Very interesting to see the comparisons. Great post.
post #719 of 5751
Thread Starter 
Glad you guys liked the links!

Always very interested in Yohji's inspirations, particularly those that come from his home country.

davidlee388 thanks for the help with identifying the boots. Unfortunately I can't even find anything related to that collaboration. Any idea what season that collaboration was? I am looking for similar boots even if I can't find those ones in particular so suggestions would be great.
post #720 of 5751

Wait acecow, how did you end up with a Yohji shirt? Thrifting?

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