LOL!! i have a pair of kva's that i call my samurai shorts. i wanted them last season but SSense sold out of 46's and they popped up on yoox in the winter in a 48 so i bit the bullet and they worked out fine. theyve got a bulit in tie-around belt and no real waistline so it doesnt really matter how you size it methinks
I feel SS07 is a bit overlooked and underestimated from his 00 collections but it really comes alive when seen in person, the intricate details and fabric blends are pretty amazing. I feel he had a strong sartorial exploration and variations on a theme at this point (ss07-aw07- partly ss08).
I found myself cooling down a bit to women's aw12 and getting less excited about it over time (though I'm certain it will deliver on the racks). I think that is also partly because I was looking through aw99, aw01 and aw02 today and all three are brilliant, particularly the latter is pretty mindblowing in both concept and execution. Definitely up there somewhere at the top of my favorite YYF collections with aw94 and ss99. Maybe he will reach that level again...
Yeah, I agree with you about AW12-13. I still like the pieces and looks I did before though, but overall I don't think the 'experiment' (if that is indeed what it was) was a 100% successful. I can imagine that if styled differently some of the individual pieces could really shine though. But compared to those older seasons where one is simultaneously inspired by the show and collection and then impressed by the individual pieces out of that runway context, this seems to not be as great with the former.
I have not seen any of the pieces from the suspender collection myself, but I like a lot of the ideas showcased in it and in general it really stood out to me when I first started looking at his Spring collections in any detail. Not too flashy, but loads of great jackets and pants and I don't even mind the styling at all.
The fact that Yohji has also made me want to wear suspenders is great as before, the only context I had for them was that of Nigerian school teachers that are sartorially trapped in some rural/colonial mash-up from the late 50s - and while that actually sounds damn cool when I write it out like that, in practice it was the frumpy side of the population that decided to stick with it .
I recently received a copy of A Magazine #2 Curated by Yohji Yamamoto and it has been a great read so far. I was hoping to do some scans tomorrow using a friend's scanner, but it looks like I will have to push that till later next week.
Here's an excerpt from one of the interviews peppered throughout the issue, this one with Charlotte Rampling by Marine Landrot that I think also captures my own personal experience with Yohji's clothing and also captures that feeling of the ephemeral that I think is associated with his work and philosophy of life.
Marine Landrot: Weren't you interested in fashion before?
Charlotte Rampling: Yes, but I didn't take a really close interest. I wore whatever suited me from different designers. When I discovered Yohji, something strange happened. It was rather like joining a sect. I didn't see many people dressed like this and I felt unique. Yohji's clothes are not slaves to fashion, you can wear them anywhere, anytime and yet they always feel avant-garde. You want to wear them over the eyears, you have to really live in them, understand them, learn how to move in them. He makes a perfect garment and then deconstructs it, giving it a personality, an identity.
Marine Landrot: Have you got any clothing to which you attach special importance?
Charlotte Rampling: A pair of shoes. Black schoolgirl shoes. My first pair of Yohji shoes. I polished the leather ritualistically, I wore them with everything, I kept them for years. Then, one day I bought a puppy and the puppy loved those shoes, perhaps even more than me. He literally chewed them up! I was sad for a long time and it made me realise the connection I have with Yohji's clothes. I would put those shoes on and away I'd go, confident in the way I felt. That's Yohji for you. When I slip into his clothes, I feel a strong sense of identity.