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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 380

post #5686 of 5740

As unaffordable as a $40,000 jacket is, kudos for producing what he wants with whomever he wants.

 

When you read about the fortunes of the company and Yohji losing financial control you'd really think it'd lead to situation where things were reigned in a bit with an eye on the bottom line, but certainly in menswear that's not been the case - the last few years in my view if anything have seen some of the most ambitious YYPH collections yet. 

post #5687 of 5740
The hand painted leather runway pieces to special order are indeed 4 million yen each. In fact the whole aw14 collection is dearer than say aw13, that's what the Paris SAs said.
post #5688 of 5740

upcoming monograph by rizzoli:

 

 

Quote:
The definitive monograph on the complete work of Yohji Yamamoto—one of fashion’s most transformative designers working today and widely acknowledged as a master of postwar fashion design. Since the early ’80s, Yohji Yamamoto’s groundbreaking silhouettes and innovative design aesthetic have propelled him to the highest rank of the international avant-garde. Distinguished by his antifashion approach, Yamamoto changed the face of contemporary fashion, radically transforming it with asymmetrical and highly conceptual designs partly inspired by the techniques of traditional Japanese kimonos. His vision came as a refreshing contrast to the power suits and brightly clad fashions of the time, forcing a reconsideration of the future direction of fashion. Yamamoto launched his first collection in 1977 in Tokyo and followed this success with the debut of his experimental and critically celebrated Yohji Yamamoto label in Paris in 1981. This luxuriously bound book explores all the major themes in his thirty years of counter-fashion design. Illustrated with photographs by Craig McDean, Inez & Vinoodh, Max Vadukul and Nick Knight, each chapter elaborates on a particular theme—his sartorial philosophy, influential extensions into scenography, runway shows, monographic exhibitions, and costume design—and is anchored by an essay or interview that lends crucial insight to the story of Yohji Yamamoto, one of the most enigmatic and iconoclastic fashion designers of our time.
post #5689 of 5740

These is going to sound like a stupid question, but here goes:

 

Since a lot of Yohji's stuff is a looser fit, with larger than normal shoulder yokes etc, how do you know if a YY garment fits you properly?

 

Also, does his stuff usually fit tts or large or small? Would it look weird to wear one of his loose jackets with anything other than those balloony pants he usually shows them with?

post #5690 of 5740
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsujigiri View Post

These is going to sound like a stupid question, but here goes:

Since a lot of Yohji's stuff is a looser fit, with larger than normal shoulder yokes etc, how do you know if a YY garment fits you properly?

Also, does his stuff usually fit tts or large or small? Would it look weird to wear one of his loose jackets with anything other than those balloony pants he usually shows them with?

It will almost always come down to personal preference in my experience. At the end of the day, as the title of the thread implies, you can just stop worrying and wear the clothing however large you want and eschew any notions of "proper fit".

For the oversized pieces, wear them as large as you feel comfortable with. I would say that Yohji is normally tts if you want the "regular" anti-fit fit. I have never had a problem with size 4 garments, which is what I would say was my normal size, since I usually wear a 50/L in most other brands and the size 4 corresponds to that. However, I can and do fit into size 3 garments as well and those fit me pretty okay too for the most part. There are some size 3 outfits that fit me okay and look good - with no pulling etc - but I don't feel as comfortable in them since I prefer the oversized fit.

The general size guide I posted from different users on the front page is an alright one for pieces between the late 90s and early to mid 2000s, but more recently, some collections have had pieces that fit smaller than usual, so while I think tts is still a good way to go, it is probably still safer to use sleeve length and chest measurements etc to determine whether certain garments will work out or if at all possible, try them on in person or ask someone's opinion if they have any experience with the garment in question.

In summary I would say his clothing is tts - for the most part, just get the size that corresponds to whatever you typically wear and go from there (this has worked for me pretty well except for a few trousers that I wanted to wear cropped and so sized "down" to a 3 deliberately).

To answer your second question, I think it is definitely possible to wear a large jacket with slimmer pants (although my idea of slim is definitely skewed, hehe), it just depends a lot on the length of the jacket and that of the pants as well as the cut.
proportion play (Click to show)







post #5691 of 5740

The general stylistic rule is that you should never ever combine a loose top with a loose bottom since it will give you a blocky silhouette; you should pick one or the other. This rule isn't set in stone though, and doesn't really apply when it comes to this kind of style. 

post #5692 of 5740

Thanks guys, that helps to explain a lot. Unfortunately the item I was looking at earlier seems to have been bought by someone else. :fu: I'll keep an eye out for other stuff, then.

 

And it's pretty enjoyable to see the awesome fits in this thread. David looks like one of those future assassins from the movie Looper. :slayer:

post #5693 of 5740

The sizing is amazingly variable. I'm about 170cm and thin so a natural 2 with quite a few 3s and in a lot of cases the comparative size of the garments are so seemingly random that they may as well not be there. 

 

I usually wear 28/29" waist trousers, which is pretty slim, and have had to send back some size 2/S trousers because I couldn't even get them round my waist, while another pair of 2s I have I could very nearly fit in twice. Measurements are useful. 

 

I'd also say that I generally don't have a problem pairing Yohji Jackets with slimmer pants. Wide legs, while so great on others, aren't for me on the whole, but I've found that the brand's pretty accommodating, especially if you find the right item to crop. 

post #5694 of 5740
Does anyone know who did the music for Yohji's SS2014 women's show? My mom's in love with it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UyKFxx1YtQ this 1
post #5695 of 5740

Speaking of $40K jackets, Yohji teamed up with Peter Saville again for some of the Y-3 SS14 collection and branding campaign. I just saw this tee for sale. (sorry if this is old news)

 

Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2

 

campaign graphics

 

 

 

post #5696 of 5740

Sorry a bit of a beginner question.

Can Yohji female pants be worn by guys?

Has anyone tried this?

post #5697 of 5740

^ why not?

post #5698 of 5740

SS14 Clearance sales started in Japan for all stores (Thank you shah for the tip), really weird timing since AW14 started a week before and now all the stock is replaced by SS14 again with the exception of a rack or two of AW14 basics.

 

Went to the Aoyama flagship, Isetan Men's, and Marui Men's department stores. Lots and lots of goods left all at great prices (30 - 40%) off but didn't find anything I really really liked other than a 3 button jacket at Marui today that I picked up for something around 50% off Japanese retail.

 

Anyways enough talk of prices and boring stuff, went to this store in Jinnan called Midwest, and they had a full collection of vintage Gap Press Men's magazines / books from 1990 - onwards, with rare photos of all the old Yohji collections, both mens and womenswear. Really would have liked to looked through them all but had no time and alot of the books were quite fragile. Not sure if photos of it have been posted here before but SS94 Men's is gorgeous, and I was also delighted to find photos of my favourite Women's collection, FW94. Definitely a good visit if you are ever in Tokyo.

 

Also flipped through the new "All About Yohji Yamamoto" book today, lots and lots of archival photos of pretty much every men's and women's collection from their beginning as well as a good amount of text. Really hope there will be an English version. Lots of stuff on the men Yohji has worked with - especially the models. There is a photo taken during 6.1 The Men with all the models together, their names, ages, and occupations all listed. Even the Yohji Paris PR agent who had to sub in for the English singer who got knocked out by that French rapper is shown and listed. There are also a few pages on Yohji's student work, notably the ones that were nominated for and won the So - En award at Bunka that awarded him the opportunity to travel to Paris I believe. And a few photos of Yohji at 25 years old, working with his Mother.

post #5699 of 5740

Did someone here buy the bright orange vest Barneys' warehouse was selling for about £35? Not the type of thing I'm able to pull off myself sadly. 

 

I took an punt on the snakeskin print knit, I've had my eye on it for a while and 40% off of 70% off isn't bad. Unbearably warm day today so it might be a while before I have a chance to wear it. Out of interest does anyone know whether last autumn's animal print knits were made in Japan or China?

post #5700 of 5740

Hey guys, looking for those in the know about yojhi. So  have these yyph derbies, and they are a little big.

What I'd like is suggestions on wardrobe in consideration of these shoes, tried and true fits or inspo.

Especially need help in the pants area.

If in a while I cannot figure out how to dress these, may move on.

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