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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 364

post #5446 of 5710
Quote:
Originally Posted by snowmanxl View Post

im also a fan of y3 bene, no shame in that! its good stuff.
i definitely need to pick up the qasa this time around icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

No shame in that at all.

I've always been a big fan of Y-3 and have a big enough wardrobe of them, its collections before perhaps 2011 were more avantgarde than sportive on the Runway ( those looks were mostly the now defunct Exclusive made-in-Japan Line ). If you guys have time, check out AW08 ( my absolute favourite ), AW09 and AW10, some of the pieces were a match to YYPH in terms of cuts/constructions, if not in fabrics.
post #5447 of 5710
yeah and its also nice with some of the synthetics because they require less upkeep and you can wear them a little harder (though everday i own something i wear it harder and harder haha)
post #5448 of 5710

Video of the collection is up.

 

 

 

Love the cut of those beast print pants @ 4:10. Really hope there is a plain black iteration, I own a pair of SS12 Cotton Hakamas and always thought it'd be great to have a shorter and non - pleated version of it. Snake print "Jumpsuits" were actually coats, which actually makes them better for me. The rope / noose coats at around 10:00 look amazing too, especially from the back.


Edited by TroubIe - 1/21/14 at 1:34am
post #5449 of 5710

Hi there,

 

I've been reading and enjoying this thread for a while (perhaps a little too shyly to contribute) and it's really stoked what was already a not inconsiderable love of Yohji. I used to buy Margiela for many, many years, and I have to say that after buying my first YY pieces in 2011 my old Dries and Margiela is looking rather sad and neglected these days. And uncomfortable. So uncomfortable! Anyway, thanks for the wealth of knowledge here- it's fascinating and truly inspiring. 

 

Now if I can just work out those Japanese auctions...

 

C

post #5450 of 5710

welcome dude ^

 

thanks for posting the runway show, trouble. def cool to see the video. the moto jacket set-up (look 7) is so cool. lots of interesting things that made me look twice. I even like the "boring" one (look 30) esp with that zipper knit. some interesting pieces throughout that could work carefully into more sober wardrobes. the 80s splash painted leather just made me laugh in a good way. go yohji.


Edited by Parker - 1/22/14 at 4:22pm
post #5451 of 5710

As much as I love Yohji, I've been terrified of buying pieces for myself - the reason being that sizing is tricky. All I really want to do is establish a uniform I really like to wear all the time / "live" in - a few pairs of pants, a blazer or two, and a coat.

 

A while ago I bought a pair of Size 2 YYPH 100 gabardine pants. I'd done some research, took the measurements and fabric into consideration, but they fit quite poorly on me:

 

(How I wanted them to fit)

 

 

(How they actually fit)

 

 

I sold these off to someone else (hopefully it will fit better on them) and bought a pair of Size 3 Y's for Men pants which arrived today:

 

 

I have to say I'm quite happy with them, they will definitely be getting alot of wear. The waist is quite fitted, (Vs. the first pair where they were 2-3 inches bigger than my normal size, but did not look great with a belt either) the rest is very wide, (30cm Leg Opening) and the material is 100% Cotton so the shape / cuffs hold better than the 100 gabardine.

 

This is pretty much my current uniform, but I would like to get myself a 3 or 4 button blazer which I am also scared of buying because of the huge shoulder measurements (48 ~ 50cm) on so many of the pieces I'm looking at. I am quite tall & thin, (40cm shoulder is a slim / skinny fit for me) and I own an oversized CdG blazer with a 50cm shoulder that looks absolutely ridiculous on me. 

 

Before I did alot of research and reading I had thought that "Yohji fit" = simply "BIG" but since then I have looked at many Yohji outfits where the shoulder is actually somewhat fitted with the rest of the proportions being wider / longer (Eg. Runway looks), or it is a drop shoulder piece. Some of the photos of pieces I am considering are displayed on a hanger (So I can tell if it's drop shoulder or not) but others are not, and I'm scared of it looking like a tent on me. I see alot of people wearing both Size 2s and 3s no problem, but I'm guessing they have broader shoulders :p

 

Playing with proportions and hitting that balance is alot harder than I thought it would be, so much respect for all of you guys making it look effortless.

post #5452 of 5710

As a size 2/3 I found that YYPH jackets fit me a lot better than Y's for Men ones did in the same size - the reverse is often true of pants because of how comparatively fitted Y's pants tend to be. I won't think twice about going for a YYPH jacket I like in size 3 but would hold off on Y's for Men unless I found a 2.

 

Certainly in my experience - though I've handled a lot, lot less than many here - Y's suit jackets tend to have more construction along the lines of shoulder padding which meant that when sizing down (I'm probably a more typical size 2 in Yohji, with a lot of size 3's in my wardrobe) they sit awkwardly on my shoulder and there's just nowhere for the fabric to go when it's being held in shape by the pads - and it just looks dreadful. A former flatmate of mine had a few Y's suits in size 3 and when I tried his jackets too it just didn't work. Perhaps I've just been unlucky in the Y's I've handled. I imagine there are a lot of exceptions to this rule.

 

My YYPH jackets tend to be constructed more lightly and the size3's just fold around me in an incredibly pleasing way. I have one in particular that if the fabric wasn't allowed to fall naturally would make me look like I was going for a David Byrne in Stop Making Sense look, but as it is I adore it. I remember once wearing it and noting to another flatmate - much, much bigger than I am - that he could probably fit into it. He thought he never would, but he did and with room to spare. Such is the magic of YYPH...

 

On a different note I got some YYPH pants in S through the post a few weeks ago and was staggered to find that the waist was too small, to the extent I couldn't actually fit into them (I usually buy 28 or 29 inch waists). There's a first time for everything. 

post #5453 of 5710

Very, very pleased to see a resurgence of flower prints in the fw show. I've always been a big fan of yohji's flower prints and I'm a keen collector and wearer of them. The look of the flowers are very reminiscent of the flowers in the clothes that carried the 花と少年 (flowers and youth) theme that was present in his work quite a few years ago, and this is probably just a continuation of it. love those yohji prints. 

post #5454 of 5710
Please share a fit or two since it's a feat to pull off those flamboyant stuff smile.gif
post #5455 of 5710
indeed, sounds quite exciting !

@TroubIe looks like you're settling in well with the size 3
post #5456 of 5710

hi to everybody!

this thread is so great and u are contributing so much effort in gaining loads of information. great wok and i enjoy looking at ur inspiring photos.  im an architecture student from Austria, Vienna  and i became a yohji fan like 3 month ago. so im very new to the spirit but already got some nice stuff and I'm continuing building my wardrobe (also cdg and issey).

 

just wanted to share some y's stuff i recently got

 

a really nice linen, rayon sz 3, two-button blazer,   i got it from esox member here, also from vienna

with amazing silk lining inside

 

code is MV-J03-804

 

 

 

combined with an y's pine stripe wool sz 3 pants

 

and an issey crinkled polyester shirt

 

shoes are cos though

 

but really kinda like the rolled up pants with the more formal shoes with light brown contrast

 

but im not so sure about the combination with the black shirt. is the contrast too strong?  what is ur opinion, u think the light blazer would rather be comibned with white layer underneath? any suggestions how to combine the blazer?

 

here is some details:

 

 

 

 

 




thanx,

 

i will be showing some other pics of some stuff too.

 

best regards to eyeryone!

Mario

post #5457 of 5710
@Sarabande That SS09 blazer looks good, in fact the whole outfit is a hit, giving an easy vibe. I'm particularly fond of the slight dropped shoulders. As re:- light or dark shirt, for me both should work well. What kind of contrast you want to create depends on your mood, doesn't it? See how the inside seams & the back lining contrast instead of blend in with the fabric, so there's no right or wrong way really.
post #5458 of 5710
After seeing the runway video, there are 3 items that I liked a lot. The coat from look 1 blew me away. My favorite item:



This jacket is really great. If he made it in black leather he could sell a million.


This knit is stunning:

post #5459 of 5710

 

@ davidlee388   thanx for the comment.  you are right it depends on the day and mood.   i was just thinking, im normally wearing totally black,    and in that case everything is black except the blazer, which makes it stand out even stronger. but overall seeming elegant and easy for me

 


and here is a link to the exhibiton "Im Reich der Falten - Japanischen Textilkunst", (meaning the empire of draping - japanese textile art) which i luckily managed to see by accident in Bellerive museum in Zurich, in beginning of january when i was there for a few days.  i just passed by the building and saw the poster.  :-)  exhibition ended on jan 12 though

 

it was about yohji, issey and cdg clothing and showed some very nice stuff from 80s/90s mainly.

 

here is some impressions  

 

http://www.cmhorisberger.ch/szenografie/im-reich-der-falten/

post #5460 of 5710

hello. 

 

quick question. 

 

so I got this yyph shirt with a very interesting collar but unfortunately the care-tags have been removed (or so i've been told). I was wondering if anyone has any information about it, such as the season. EDIT: in light of a post of few pages back I'm not asking to be an internet detective or something to look up the season for me. Just wondering if it's something anyone else has encountered before.

 

 Basically all parts of the collar are affixed with one button. It's easiest to just show a picture. 

 

thank you =]

 

 

 

 

'

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

EDIT 2. In the interest of not just sucking information out of more knowledgable people I'll also contribute a fit. 

 

 

y's for men jacket with various cdg offshoots + vans


Edited by solargarden - 1/26/14 at 6:40am
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