As much as I love Yohji, I've been terrified of buying pieces for myself - the reason being that sizing is tricky. All I really want to do is establish a uniform I really like to wear all the time / "live" in - a few pairs of pants, a blazer or two, and a coat.
A while ago I bought a pair of Size 2 YYPH 100 gabardine pants. I'd done some research, took the measurements and fabric into consideration, but they fit quite poorly on me:
(How I wanted them to fit)
(How they actually fit)
I sold these off to someone else (hopefully it will fit better on them) and bought a pair of Size 3 Y's for Men pants which arrived today:
I have to say I'm quite happy with them, they will definitely be getting alot of wear. The waist is quite fitted, (Vs. the first pair where they were 2-3 inches bigger than my normal size, but did not look great with a belt either) the rest is very wide, (30cm Leg Opening) and the material is 100% Cotton so the shape / cuffs hold better than the 100 gabardine.
This is pretty much my current uniform, but I would like to get myself a 3 or 4 button blazer which I am also scared of buying because of the huge shoulder measurements (48 ~ 50cm) on so many of the pieces I'm looking at. I am quite tall & thin, (40cm shoulder is a slim / skinny fit for me) and I own an oversized CdG blazer with a 50cm shoulder that looks absolutely ridiculous on me.
Before I did alot of research and reading I had thought that "Yohji fit" = simply "BIG" but since then I have looked at many Yohji outfits where the shoulder is actually somewhat fitted with the rest of the proportions being wider / longer (Eg. Runway looks), or it is a drop shoulder piece. Some of the photos of pieces I am considering are displayed on a hanger (So I can tell if it's drop shoulder or not) but others are not, and I'm scared of it looking like a tent on me. I see alot of people wearing both Size 2s and 3s no problem, but I'm guessing they have broader shoulders
Playing with proportions and hitting that balance is alot harder than I thought it would be, so much respect for all of you guys making it look effortless.