Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 364
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No shame in that at all.
I've always been a big fan of Y-3 and have a big enough wardrobe of them, its collections before perhaps 2011 were more avantgarde than sportive on the Runway ( those looks were mostly the now defunct Exclusive made-in-Japan Line ). If you guys have time, check out AW08 ( my absolute favourite ), AW09 and AW10, some of the pieces were a match to YYPH in terms of cuts/constructions, if not in fabrics.
Video of the collection is up.
Love the cut of those beast print pants @ 4:10. Really hope there is a plain black iteration, I own a pair of SS12 Cotton Hakamas and always thought it'd be great to have a shorter and non - pleated version of it. Snake print "Jumpsuits" were actually coats, which actually makes them better for me. The rope / noose coats at around 10:00 look amazing too, especially from the back.
Edited by TroubIe - 1/21/14 at 1:34am
I've been reading and enjoying this thread for a while (perhaps a little too shyly to contribute) and it's really stoked what was already a not inconsiderable love of Yohji. I used to buy Margiela for many, many years, and I have to say that after buying my first YY pieces in 2011 my old Dries and Margiela is looking rather sad and neglected these days. And uncomfortable. So uncomfortable! Anyway, thanks for the wealth of knowledge here- it's fascinating and truly inspiring.
Now if I can just work out those Japanese auctions...
welcome dude ^
thanks for posting the runway show, trouble. def cool to see the video. the moto jacket set-up (look 7) is so cool. lots of interesting things that made me look twice. I even like the "boring" one (look 30) esp with that zipper knit. some interesting pieces throughout that could work carefully into more sober wardrobes. the 80s splash painted leather just made me laugh in a good way. go yohji.
Edited by Parker - 1/22/14 at 4:22pm
As much as I love Yohji, I've been terrified of buying pieces for myself - the reason being that sizing is tricky. All I really want to do is establish a uniform I really like to wear all the time / "live" in - a few pairs of pants, a blazer or two, and a coat.
A while ago I bought a pair of Size 2 YYPH 100 gabardine pants. I'd done some research, took the measurements and fabric into consideration, but they fit quite poorly on me:
(How I wanted them to fit)
(How they actually fit)
I sold these off to someone else (hopefully it will fit better on them) and bought a pair of Size 3 Y's for Men pants which arrived today:
I have to say I'm quite happy with them, they will definitely be getting alot of wear. The waist is quite fitted, (Vs. the first pair where they were 2-3 inches bigger than my normal size, but did not look great with a belt either) the rest is very wide, (30cm Leg Opening) and the material is 100% Cotton so the shape / cuffs hold better than the 100 gabardine.
This is pretty much my current uniform, but I would like to get myself a 3 or 4 button blazer which I am also scared of buying because of the huge shoulder measurements (48 ~ 50cm) on so many of the pieces I'm looking at. I am quite tall & thin, (40cm shoulder is a slim / skinny fit for me) and I own an oversized CdG blazer with a 50cm shoulder that looks absolutely ridiculous on me.
Before I did alot of research and reading I had thought that "Yohji fit" = simply "BIG" but since then I have looked at many Yohji outfits where the shoulder is actually somewhat fitted with the rest of the proportions being wider / longer (Eg. Runway looks), or it is a drop shoulder piece. Some of the photos of pieces I am considering are displayed on a hanger (So I can tell if it's drop shoulder or not) but others are not, and I'm scared of it looking like a tent on me. I see alot of people wearing both Size 2s and 3s no problem, but I'm guessing they have broader shoulders
Playing with proportions and hitting that balance is alot harder than I thought it would be, so much respect for all of you guys making it look effortless.
As a size 2/3 I found that YYPH jackets fit me a lot better than Y's for Men ones did in the same size - the reverse is often true of pants because of how comparatively fitted Y's pants tend to be. I won't think twice about going for a YYPH jacket I like in size 3 but would hold off on Y's for Men unless I found a 2.
Certainly in my experience - though I've handled a lot, lot less than many here - Y's suit jackets tend to have more construction along the lines of shoulder padding which meant that when sizing down (I'm probably a more typical size 2 in Yohji, with a lot of size 3's in my wardrobe) they sit awkwardly on my shoulder and there's just nowhere for the fabric to go when it's being held in shape by the pads - and it just looks dreadful. A former flatmate of mine had a few Y's suits in size 3 and when I tried his jackets too it just didn't work. Perhaps I've just been unlucky in the Y's I've handled. I imagine there are a lot of exceptions to this rule.
My YYPH jackets tend to be constructed more lightly and the size3's just fold around me in an incredibly pleasing way. I have one in particular that if the fabric wasn't allowed to fall naturally would make me look like I was going for a David Byrne in Stop Making Sense look, but as it is I adore it. I remember once wearing it and noting to another flatmate - much, much bigger than I am - that he could probably fit into it. He thought he never would, but he did and with room to spare. Such is the magic of YYPH...
On a different note I got some YYPH pants in S through the post a few weeks ago and was staggered to find that the waist was too small, to the extent I couldn't actually fit into them (I usually buy 28 or 29 inch waists). There's a first time for everything.
Very, very pleased to see a resurgence of flower prints in the fw show. I've always been a big fan of yohji's flower prints and I'm a keen collector and wearer of them. The look of the flowers are very reminiscent of the flowers in the clothes that carried the 花と少年 (flowers and youth) theme that was present in his work quite a few years ago, and this is probably just a continuation of it. love those yohji prints.
hi to everybody!
this thread is so great and u are contributing so much effort in gaining loads of information. great wok and i enjoy looking at ur inspiring photos. im an architecture student from Austria, Vienna and i became a yohji fan like 3 month ago. so im very new to the spirit but already got some nice stuff and I'm continuing building my wardrobe (also cdg and issey).
just wanted to share some y's stuff i recently got
a really nice linen, rayon sz 3, two-button blazer, i got it from esox member here, also from vienna
with amazing silk lining inside
code is MV-J03-804
combined with an y's pine stripe wool sz 3 pants
and an issey crinkled polyester shirt
shoes are cos though
but really kinda like the rolled up pants with the more formal shoes with light brown contrast
but im not so sure about the combination with the black shirt. is the contrast too strong? what is ur opinion, u think the light blazer would rather be comibned with white layer underneath? any suggestions how to combine the blazer?
here is some details:
i will be showing some other pics of some stuff too.
best regards to eyeryone!