Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[esox]

something for the real yohji fan.

http://page7.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g118322799

 

[Auburn]

YYPH/Y's/YYPH/Converse

The shirt has a removable middle placket, as well as a double placket on top. Many of the hems were left raw and the back of the shirt is made of a single piece of fabric. Definitely one of my favorite acquisitions.

 

[davidlee388]

Ivwri kick-started the Top 5 Pieces again so reminded me to post one.
My AW04 Zipper Set-up is number 5. This is one of three Joint Top 2s. If ever a YY piece needs an operation manual, this is it. And lots of pictures to explain....



YYPH AW05 Look 41 " Parachute " Blazer - ( HN-J05-101 ) - Nicknamed by Asobu whilst discussing it last year. 100% wool, same fabric as the Look 19, soft hand, heavier than 100, woven texture and very black. Size 2, generous fit, perfect sleeve length and shoulders. Bespoke black anodized flat metal buttons, 3B closure, notch lapels, fully lined in cupro. 1 chest pocket, 2 bottom expandable pockets with anodized studded flaps, 1B working sleeves. Double collar with big hood in cotton, detachable via 4 horn buttons to collar and long double zips to inside of lapels, stud and tab for a closed hood look. 2 ultra long zips ( with stud details ) to open the sides of the blazer for various silhouettes, aiding motion. At this point the blazer is a great piece in its own right to wear fit and style wise, with/without the hood.....
This blazer, however, is supplied with an " accessory " ( only another YYPH I have came with one ) in the form of a " parachute " strap, a long elasticated strap covered in cotton. It has a run-free studded tab and the ends have 3 anodized catches, 6 in total. When studded to the blazer at the hood or under the collar, it transforms the jacket conceptually and visually...



Alternative views:-





Shown in its maddest, altered ego mode, the catches are attached to the anodized T-hooks on elbows ( sewn in ), cuffs ( under cuffs and stud removable ) and front panel corners ( stud removable ). It opens up the front of the blazer, pulling the corners back, and offers interesting movements with the arms. And with all points connected, it vaguely lends it the parachute concept. It's rather cool and so badass. Alternatively the strap can be put through the sides ( zips opened ) and pull the front panels " in " instead, creating another look:-






So many playful ways to wear this..and when the craziness is over, it can be transformed back to a go-anywhere piece.
Shown without hood and cuffs detached:-








What is epic about this piece is first and foremost ( with any clothing ) its lovely fabrics and fit. It also manages to marry elegance with madness. A piece with such strong utilitarian vibe should be made in some heavy duty cotton blend, but Yohji chose wool. The typical Yohji twist allows this to change from formality to " street " without affecting the " Yohji " silhouette. Some may argue the strap is OTT and not wholy practical but the fact is Yohji and his team were allowed their imagination to run free and create something like this that is truly refreshing. And to have fun, so why not? This piece deserves a lengthy write-up and a firm 5 Top spot.

Close-up





YYPH SS06 multi-pocket pants ( HR-P55-100 ) - size 2, 100% wool, posted before. crazy waist pockets' construction.

YYPH SS Tee ( HA-T91-952 ) - year?, judging by the 100% cotton, probably AW, very dark navy, lovely crew neck band. Size 2

YYPH AW11 Monkey Boots ( HP-E05-754 ) - size 2, posted before, 15 eyelet closure.

CDG H+ belt.

 

[Ivwri]

Wow david, that is indeed a killer piece. Usable in both urban and formal environments and truly unique. I love how so many concepts are explored here - bondage, military, formalwear, youth culture and casual wear all in one piece. Very, very nice.

This is the one thing that I am curious about whether Yohji will return to in future seasons. Using straps and zips and buttons to create transformable and for want of a better term, "street" pieces in a collection. The recent seasons are not experimental in that regard with more focus being given to silhouette and fabrics I wonder whether this is tied in to Yohji's mind state as he approaches 70, wanting to create clothes that are not as "hard-edged".

 

[MyMindSpray]

Hi all! ...Looking for some sizing advice regarding the Y's for Men line...I've heard that, generally speaking, this line is slimmer and less "oversized" than YYPH...more tailored I suppose...

Looking to pick up a classic coat and worried that my standard size 4 is gonng be too tight...

Can anyone put my concerns to rest?

 

[Benesyed]

Just got those trousers to start building my looser fit arsenal

 

[Arche]

I've been meaning to post some pics of my recent purchases, so here they are. I'm not sure how to add images to a spoiler, so if any one can tell me I'll do it next time. Here they are:

1) YYPH AW 96 Jacket. Size M, but very roomy as you can see. Wool/Rayon mix. The button holes on the lapels are functional, and the jacket can be fastened around the neck. The most interesting feature are the slits on the sleeves which reveal the shirt underneath. Y's cotton shirt, and Y's linen trousers.


Works quite well with a waistcoat, or as here, a knit.




2) YYPH AW 89 blazer. Great condition given its age. 100% wool. The white highlights on the lapels continue round the back of the collar. Size S. Fit is perfect for a normal blazer. I would have liked it a little larger for a more Yohji vibe, but still very nice. Same Y's shirt and trousers.

 

[esox]

Hi all! ...Looking for some sizing advice regarding the Y's for Men line...I've heard that, generally speaking, this line is slimmer and less "oversized" than YYPH...more tailored I suppose...
Looking to pick up a classic coat and worried that my standard size 4 is gonng be too tight...
Can anyone put my concerns to rest?

its hard to say because it depends a lot of what piece you want. some are bigger some not. for example i have a more recent y's suit in size 5 and it fits like a small 4 but also have some older pieces in size 2 or 3 that fits me. for my opinion stuff made 10 years ago or older are more oversized than more recent stuff.

for newer stuff i would size up in y's.

 

[MyMindSpray]

thanks for info esox....been eyeing the overcoat on Yoox and i've heard that the Y's items are typically more fitted and tailored..especially those that came later on...Appreciate your two cents.

 

[davidlee388]



thanks for info esox....been eyeing the overcoat on Yoox and i've heard that the Y's items are typically more fitted and tailored..especially those that came later on...Appreciate your two cents.

Oh so the coat is from Yoox? Then if it has different sizes, order them, try them all and return the ones that don't fit......FOC. A no-brainier right? Even if there is no choice of sizes, the only risk is the small delivery charge if you need to return it

 

[asobu]

wow david the fit on the studded blazer from AW05 is perfect, such a great piece. Of course the parachute jacket is completely bonkers too. Great stuff.

 

[davidlee388]



wow david the fit on the studded blazer from AW05 is perfect, such a great piece. Of course the parachute jacket is completely bonkers too. Great stuff.

Thanks, in fact if you remember at the time you gave me valuable info on the Parachute, then someone BINed it ( gutted ). Somehow the winning bidder put this piece ( in perfect condition ) back on Y! after 5 months so it's destined to be mine eventually.... with the added bonus of a lower price.

So I've got you aka the Yohji Bible to thank for urging me to get it

Edit:- when do we get to see your latest addition, the bonkers SS06 pants?

 

[the shah]

YYPH 60/40 wool cotton bluish-grey suit​

Thanks to Mr Synthese

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[esox]

thanks for info esox....been eyeing the overcoat on Yoox and i've heard that the Y's items are typically more fitted and tailored..especially those that came later on...Appreciate your two cents.

you welcome.
as david said, you can buy it from yoox without a problem.

 

[davidlee388]

YYPH 60/40 wool cotton bluish-grey suit
Thanks to Mr Synthese
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Very nice Mr Shah, refreshing to see non-black, unlike me the boring A garment only comes alive when worn so please post a fit pic.
The pants have creases/pleats at front and back in the middle, have they been pressed too much or they are there per se?