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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 324

post #4846 of 5726
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

I think Yohji is still one of the greats simply because when he first started out he really saw a clear vision of his design universe and is still inhabiting that space even now. He generates his own friction by challenging himself and "looking to the past".

I think this is an incredibly important point. I know it sounds corny, but I think designers are at their most successful and creative when they are sincere about their work - they are expressing in their own language and creating something they feel passionate about. A designer such as Karl Lagerfeld may be able to design for a million different houses and somehow hide his own voice throughout (there is a reason he has never been able to hold down his own namesake line over the years...he keeps creating façades and new narratives, so his own identity has to a point become lost, constantly about creating something of the moment), but he is few and far between.

Rather than trying to emulate the fashion stylist, I think it's about being a thoughtful designer. Finding what drives you, rather than what you think will drive others, because although many designers find success with the latter, they don't last. You'll burn out eventually, and with the short attention span of consumers today, they'll forget you as soon as they've tweeted/facebooked/tumblrd you. All the "greats" have designed from a place that is very personal and self-reflexive in its approach, whether it be Yohji, McQueen or Yves Saint Laurent (his work shows that being personal doesn't necessarily mean not being allowed to change completely every season, provided the approach and perspective threads it all together...although many of his weaker collections are fascinating in their efforts against what was going on in his life at the time, something I suppose you can find with any designer/artist/writer/etc).

Everything goes in cycles though - we want things faster, we want things slower. We have the expansion of the slow food movement (food sourced locally, chosen carefully, and cooked with care), the slow print movement (magazines released bi-annually and written in greater depth, or even a backlash against some of the faster reddit type threads in favour of forums and platforms where things can be properly discussed), and I think it's only a matter of time before this becomes more apparent in clothing. Of course fashion will remain fashion and move at a blistering speed, but hopefully more people will turn against fast fashion and look for a more meaningful mode of consuming. Not expecting it to be the vast majority of consumers, but you only need 1% to create a group that has a noticeable impact and influence.

Oh and Kiko, definitely looking forward to more photos icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #4847 of 5726
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

I don't think this version of the video has been posted before on here.

Full show for AW2010 4.1 The Men.
 

Great show with a unique charm. Probably the second longest Pour Homme Runway show in history.

Coincidentally before you posted the vid ( no word of a lie ) I felt like having fun and a dance 2 weeks ago, not Gangnam Style, more like 4.1 The Men Style mwink[1].gif

 

 

YYPH AW09 Look 3 Hat - ( HZ-H05-127 ) - in black, 95/5 wool/nylon, 57 cm.

 

YYPH AW10 4.1 The Men Tab Collar Coat - ( HJ-J66-100 ) - HJ code denoting SS10 so I assume a SS piece chosen for the April 2010 Tokyo show. Never seen in European Flagships. 100% signature black wool gabardine. Size 2, simple, elegant silhouette. Fully lined in cupro with 3 inside pockets, big horn buttons, 5B closure with a stand collar tab closure, 3B non working cuffs, long back vent. 1 chest slit + 2 flapped bottom pockets. 

 

YYPH SS06 Multi-pocket pants ( HR-P55-100 ) - posted before, sz 3, 100 black wool gab, large multi waist pockets/pouches. 

 

Y-3 Exclusive AW10 Neo Classic Hi-top Sneakers - UK sz 7, black canvas construction with 9 eyelet lace closure. Feline themed text messages on heels and ankles. 

 

SS Tee, CDG H+ Belt 

 

The authentic and original (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

post #4848 of 5726
Thread Starter 
Beautiful David, just beautiful nod[1].gif
post #4849 of 5726

An unseasonably warm day today, so a very different fit from my last one:

 

 

YYPH, SS2013, Long-sleeved top (quite intricate pattern woven into the cloth); YYPH, SS2010, 53%Silk/47%Cotton draw-string trousers (the silk/cotton blend is incredibly light and smooth, and amazing to wear on a warm, windy day); YYPH long linen shirt (not sure which collection) with some flowers embroidered on the front, also very light and airy; YYPH horse leather shoes, also possibly SS 2010.

 

And, for later in the evening, when it cools down:

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

YYPH AW2012 "distressed" knit, 63% alpaca/ 37% silk, really soft, and amazingly warm considering how light it is, even with those extra holes. The only thing I'm undecided about is the colour. The knit itself is incredible, but I don't know how much wear I'm going to get out of something this colour. 


Edited by Arche - 4/26/13 at 11:23pm
post #4850 of 5726

Has anybody posted, or does anyone know a place I could find, more YYPH AW 1997 shots than the ones gathered together on the first page of this thread? I'm trying to track down a photo of a particular piece, but it isn't included in these photos. 

post #4851 of 5726

Just picked up a Y's blazer from stylezeitgiest. I've never worn any Y's clothing, though my flatmate has a suit (from Dantebykiko), so I'm just looking forward to seeing how it wears. 

 

On a note vaguely related to recent discussions here, where online (or London) is a good place to pick up Undercover - both this season and older stuff on discount? The name's virtually ungoogleable, and Yoox's selection hardly represents the brand at its best. 

post #4852 of 5726
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arche View Post

Has anybody posted, or does anyone know a place I could find, more YYPH AW 1997 shots than the ones gathered together on the first page of this thread? I'm trying to track down a photo of a particular piece, but it isn't included in these photos. 

 

I looked but couldn't find any more images than what Asobu included in his epic archive post on p105.

---

On another note, the package containing that knit/gab AW07 blazer was "lost". plain.gif

post #4853 of 5726
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post

I looked but couldn't find any more images than what Asobu included in his epic archive post on p105.
---
On another note, the package containing that knit/gab AW07 blazer was "lost". plain.gif

You are kidding? How so? It's inland shipping within US right so should be pretty straight forward? I had packages held up in Custom for up to a week in the past but nothing was every lost. I sincerely hope you'll receive it in the end esp it's a grail....
post #4854 of 5726

The seller contacted me and said the package had been lost by UPS. This was very soon after I'd made the purchase, so if correctly interpreted their message which was in semi-English/Italian, I actually think they probably couldn't find the jacket in their inventory. I was refunded the next day. But, kind of a bummer. 

 

I also forgot to bid on a pair of hakama print pants from Spring 12 and got outbid on a pair of Ys pants. doh!

post #4855 of 5726
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenE View Post

On a note vaguely related to recent discussions here, where online (or London) is a good place to pick up Undercover - both this season and older stuff on discount? The name's virtually ungoogleable, and Yoox's selection hardly represents the brand at its best. 

DSM have Undercover in the corner right of the basement. At sale time they usually have quite a wide selection still left. Oki-ni and Mr Porter tend to have a small selection, and I'm sure you'll be able to pick up some up from there too come sale. Otherwise I can't really think of anything confused.gif
post #4856 of 5726

Thank you! I've been in DSM a few times, never spotted it. I'll track it down.

post #4857 of 5726

After browising this thread, does anyone else think that the slim-fit everything attitude that gets pushed on the rest of this forum looks kinda silly?

 

I feel tempted to send all my skinny, stiff, uncomfortable raws to goodwill and start wearing loose drapey pants.
 

post #4858 of 5726
The all-slim ( I prefer the term " fitted " ) silhouette is not unheard of, it's even portrayed sometimes on the Runway. But for me Yohji clothing is all about comfort first so form follows function for me logically. Plus there's a reason for such volume:- for the meticulously chosen fabrics to do the talking, especially in motion.

Saying that, the all loose silhouette is not the be all and end all. It's good also to pair a voluminous top half with fitted ( relatively speaking ) pants or vice versa. That's what I do anyway, 3 ways to wear his masterpieces smile.gif
post #4859 of 5726

yeah, I agree with David. Yohji makes quite a few slim things and it's nice to play with diff. combinations of volume. 

 

another nice spring day here. I tried to do the SS13 look on a beer budget.

Y-3 straw hat / yohji costume d'homme super big rayon shirt / aa tee / siki im cotton pants / yoox sneakers / 60s and 00s architecture

 

 

 

 

color (Click to show)

 

 

 

post #4860 of 5726

Regarding the slim-fitted vs loose-fitted thing: While I don't think other people look bad in slim-fitted clothes (depends on the outfit and the person of course), wearing Yohji has definitely changed my sense of my own, more fitted, non-Yohji clothes. I wore an old pair of regular, non-skinny jeans the other day, and, although I haven't changed size since I bought them, I couldn't believe how uncomfortable they felt, even though they used the fit me "perfectly." Same goes with once "normal" shirts and blazers. Having become accustomed to the looser Yohji pieces, all of this stuff seems uncomfortably restrictive somehow. At the same time, I think this has a lot to do with the subtle artistry of Yohji's tailoring. Obviously you can't get anything like the same effect by just buying oversized shirts and suits. 

 

I think David's point about letting the fabric speak is very pertinent. Maybe it's just me, but even with my limited experience, when I wear Yohji I feel like I'm wearing a small work of art, and I'm more aware of the piece of clothing itself, and how it feels in motion, than of how I look in it, if that makes sense. With more fitted clothing, which reveals the shape of the body, there is somehow more focus on the clothing showing the body to best effect (or not, as shown when people embarrassingly try to squash themselves into tight clothing). 

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